kizashi gts mt alarm and remote start

Hello guys and gals, hope you are ready for Halloween. I have a 2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS, 6 Speed Manual Transmission etc. This car comes with keyless entry (Smartpass) as stock which also works as a factory oem alarm. I am adding a CompuStar 6000AS with an iDatalink BLADE-AL while using their weblink updater page to flash the CompuStar to v7 and the Blade to DL-SZ2 (KLON) 1.2. iDatalink Page Now, this is where my inexperience with the iDataLink gets me. I am more of a relay junkie and so far I have only had the pleasure of wiring vehicle that make no use of CAN buses or immobilizers. Heck, I've even disabled them things if the owner does not want them on. I know this is a lot of text to read but I hope that I can get a bit of your time and experience with this install. Words will not be able to convey my gratefulness in hope of your assistance. According to CompuStar's install guide and wiring diagram, I should only worry about the main harness (CN1). This harness is essentially: [1] (+) 12V ACC      [2] (+) 12V START [3] (+) 12V IGN       [4] (-) GND [5] (+) 12V CONST [6] (+) 12V PARK LIGHT OUT CompuStar says this harness (in addition to optional POCs and SIREN) should be the minimum to wire while using a BLADE-AL. Armed with this information, many of you may know that this harness also includes a 40Amp relay to be used as a Start-kill/Anti-grind. Wiring this guy is pretty simple. The Starter wire is already pre-wired to pin 87a which also needs to be wired to the starter side in the vehicle. Pin 30 is then wired to that same (+) 12V starter wire but onto the key side which means it has to be cut for it to work this way. Pin 86 is already pre-wired to the (+) 12V ignition wire and pin 85 is then connected to GWA (ground when armed) from the option harness. OK, nor bear with me. Let's jump onto the iDatalink side of things fairly quickly. This is where my issues arrises due to my limited knowledge. Just like CompuStar, iDatalink also provides and install guide, but this time, it is vehicle specific which makes it much easier to work with. My specific guide can be found on the link above or directly here in a pdf file. iDatalink's guide justs asks for a few connections to be made to the Kizashi's start button, with a few diodes to isolate output, and for two of the remote starter wires to be connected as well. So, question time, this is where I tend to stumble a bit; Just to get this one out of the way, even though this install guide is only asking for two connections from the remote starter to the vehicle, I still need to have the whole ignition harness plugged in as described above? Now, assuming the above is true (which should be), the guide asks for STARTER 1 (+) OUTPUT to be wired to BRAKE (+). Only reason I am wondering about this one is because this wire goes to the starter-kill relay and instead of just being a connection it is now a split wire, one coming from the key (start button) to the relay (pin 30) and one going from the relay (pin 87a) to the starter. From what I can put together, the blade is most likely using this wire to activate the brake lights for the remote start to work or it is just using it for reservation mode since this is a manual. That is not clarified anywhere in their guide so I just need to know, do I need to connect this wire after or before the relay? Do I need to diode isolate it? And finally, the IGNITION (+) OUTPUT from remote starter to a DIODE --|<|-- to vehicle IGNITION (+) which also goes to the blade harness itself. This one looks pretty simple and from the diagram I can tell that as long as the diode is somewhere, with the right polarity in mind, between the starter and the ignition wire, I should be good. So in this case, this is telling me to ignore the wiring diagram from CompuStar and don't wire the ignition wire directly to my vehicle's ignition, but to introduce a diode to isolate that circuit from the remote starter, right? Once again, it only asks for these two connections to be made, but they need to be done in addition to what the CompuStar Control Module requires at a minimum to work and that is harness 1 (CN1) mentioned above, so how would I be able to keep the starter-kill and anti-grind while wiring the starter 1 output to the brake and the ignition isolated output? Thank you for your time, there is one more relay to wire since this car uses a secondary ignition which turns off during crank, which according to CompuStar, I can use a POC as 2nd Accessory to simulate this with a relay, of course. I hope this wall of text does not deter you away from this post and please note that I am not looking for experience in wiring this particular vehicle, if you have it then even better, but I have access to the service manual with diagrams and all if needed ( I already used it to wire up a Hydreon RainTracker to the car, works wonders by the way).

I also wanted to add, relating to the two wires on the iDatalink install guide from the remote starter. Is there a chance that those two wires are from Connector 3 (CN3), or option connector? Meaning, that it is not asking to touch the Main Harness at all but just the actual outputs from the starter via the option connector. In this case; I would need from that connector (CN3), 2nd Starter Output (RED / Black) POC #2 to BRAKE (+) in vehicle and 2nd Ignition Output (Green) POC #3 to DIODE --|<|-- and then to vehicle IGNITION wire? Could this be the case and then I don't need to worry about touching the Main Harness at all to wire the BLADE-AL Harness, and therefore no need to worry about if the starter wire goes before or after the relay?

The Compustar CM600AS needs to have the CN3 harness plugged in for a few reasons. 1. The two Red wires need to be connected to a +12V constant source as they supply power to the entire unit. 2. The Starter Output that is connected to the vehicles Brake has to be (+). It is not used to sense the brake pedal being depressed but fools the vehicle in to thinking someone is in the vehicle and depressing the brake pedal during a remote start . The Blade supplies a Brake Status to the CM6000 via info it gets off the CAN bus. 3. The POC outputs for 2nd IGN, 2nd ACC & 2nd Starter are (-) low current and would need a relay to perform the same function. 4. While the diode blocks the CM6000's Ignition output, the CM6000 needs to see/sense the vehicles ignition for various reasons, including programming remotes, etc. I'm not sure if I would incorporate the Starter Kill / Anti-Grind relay in this vehicle install. I would cut off the relay. Here is a link to the Fortin EVO-ALL install on that vehicle. It is similar but also gives your some extra info on the clutch bypass, etc. https://ifar.ca/download/7321/evo-all_suzuki_kizashi_%282011-2012%29.rev-20130121.pdf As a FYI, the iDatalink install guide on Page 3 lists the Model as "Kizashi   PTS   AT". Not sure how significant the "AT" is.Soldering is fun!

Thank you for the reply kreg. It seems I am already somewhere on the right track, at least when it comes to what I need plugged in or not. And I did pick up on the (-) outputs from the POC outputs and decided to use them as last resort, if the vehicle needs them. I have the following on the main harness as such: 1. I have the two red wires to the constant on the vehicle, which is IGN 1 since IGN 2 drops out during crank. I don't think I need to power IGN 2 since that is used for accessories and according the the service manual, the starting relay is powered by IGN 1 as well. I will probably be using a GWA output to trigger a DEI 529T when armed and then a relay to power IGN 2 via an AUX, but that is for later. 2. Ground is of course bolted in to factory ground points. 3. ACC wire is WHT/BLK behind a 15A relay and wired. 4. I have the starter-kill/anti-grind relay entirely disabled, due to the way my Keyless Start System works, it did not like the relay separating the starter relay from the start button, and so I removed it. This module is very sensitive and likes to throw "Service Start System" if anything is weird. Was for a bit, but I was able to diagnose and fix. 5. The Starter wire is currently hooked to the brake (+) like the guide asks but after further research (of the service manual diagrams), since my vehicle is manual, I believe the AT in the guide simply means Automatic Transmission. Now, for my vehicle to be able to start, all that is needed is for the clutch to be pressed. The clutch switch (or CPP as the manual calls it) completes connection when the pedal is pressed and unlike some vehicles out there, mine will not work if the switch is not plugged in and engaged, meaning, power does pass by it when the clutch pedal is pressed. And so I may have to power this wire, after verifying voltage etc, with the Starter wire coming from the remote starter. I could also set up a clutch bypass by using a relay and either a GWR (Ground when Ready, I believe) or some sort of output that only engages when the remote start is requested. 6. And as you mentioned, the ignition wire simply needs to sense that there is ignition and I currently have it wired as per the BLADE-AL guide suggests. Diode isolated and all. 7. Parking lights, I found this wire with a bit of patience and testing. My car separates the left turn signals from the right, and rear but the parking lights are not therefore all I had to do was just find the right wire here. I also have the PTS (Push to Start) wires all set up and so I used the weblink website to initial flash the unit and blade, then klon the smartpass key. So far it looks like all that worked properly but I am in a standstill as I wait for UPS to deliver the remotes (COMPUSTAR RF-P2W901-SS). I can't take the alarm out of valet mode nor program the tach signal without them. So far the only wires on my option harness is simply the siren output. I will be using most of my POCs as AUX 1 - 5 and a few for Status (GWR), GWA, Defrost and VAC. I think this should give me plenty of options if and when I decide to wire the sunroof and/or windows to close/roll up and the other pertaining accessoires for convenience. I did run the hood pin but it is not plugged in just yet as I work on the vehicle. The Blade-AL does send a hood signal, but I would like to wire it in as a failsafe just in case. So I think I am on the right track so far, and I did find a few guides online like this one but I can tell you there are quite a few wires in there where they don't need to be. The service manual has been a good help, but it has taken most of the day deciphering how they organized it all and broken apart due to page margins. My apologies for another wall of text but I do feel this information should help someone in the future. In fact, here is a diagram to one of the most important parts of an alarm install in the Kizashi, the Keyless Start Module. As you can see it is a very important unit in this car. It is just to the left of the clutch pedal (or brake pedal in an Automatic) behind or under the steering wheel and to the right of the drivers kick panel. The kick panel itself is referred to as J/B (Junction Box) and as Relay Box 2, while Relay Box 1 is under the hood. There is a secondary kick panel on the passenger side, that's where I wired the rain tracker, which is referred to as the BCM (Body Control Module) and as Relay Box 3, since it also has relays there as well.

Here I am, just reporting in. Once I wired the antenna and paired the remotes, I was able to to take the car out of valet mode and program the tach signal. I went over my programming with weblink updater to make sure of my options and tweak things a bit. I am still waiting on my EZGO so no comment on that yet. Remote start did not work right away, but no issue there, from the Fortin guide, I isolated my cruise and clutch wire and wired them to POC 5 (status, black) and it worked wonderful there once reservation mode was set. Only issue I have is that outside off programming, when I unlock the car, it turns on power to the ignition. Despite all the wiring diagrams from Fortin and other sources, I still need to look for an IGN 1 and an ACC that is switched and isolated from the rest of the Keyless Start. This seems to be an issue with the car itself and not the CompuStar. Will update when I find those sweet wires. And it seems that the recommend parking lights back feed unto my dim line, so that will be one more to fix. Everything else worked a treat, trunk opens and reports status, my driver for has priority unlock, my locks lock and unlock as I disengage park and reengage it, and my proximity and shock sensors work good as well. My stock FOB can start the car as well and it seems I don't have to worry about which FOB I unlocked or started the car with. My plan after this, for remote start, is to set up four reed switches, 2 in serial and stacked, JIC, in my shift assembly (which happens to have slots big enough for two) and wire them to the CompuStar so that it takes it off manual mode and unto automatic. Now I know many install shops don't even like to wire manual vehicles for remote start and I can see every reason not to as well, but I am wiring several "fail-safes" along with the reed switches. Anything mechanical can fail, and these switches are not an exception. I already have the 3 in 1 FT-DAS sensor as the very last fail-safe. This shuts off the car if it lunges forward. My job is to make sure it doesn't even get to that step if the remote start is unsafe. But before that, I have a sunroof to wire and my car already has a 12v constant and all related wires in one location, just need to extend my two AUXs from the alarm. So thanks again kreg357, that Fortin guide speed up my wire hunt and inspired my clutch bypass.