chevy won't start at all after install

Hello, I just installed the Viper 5701 in a 2011 Chevy Express van today. Here's the specs: - Viper 5701 2-way Remote Start - DBALL2 Bypass with firmware 402.GM6 v2.39 - I did install 2a from the manual (http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9303&productid=553&firmwareid=5280) - The van does NOT have power locks or power windows. It does not have a factory keyless entry, but it does have an anti-theft module. Before the install, the van started fine. I programmed the transponder per the instructions, and the DBALL responded to the key being turned on, it can try to start the van (the lights on the instrument cluster change), and everything seems fine, but it won't crank. During the install, no wires were shorted, and the only wire that was cut was the Accessory wire per the directions, and the diode was also put in per the directions. The van is displaying the security light on the dash, as if it can't recognize the key. When you turn the key to START, the van does nothing. The remote start cannot start the van. It won't turn the starter at all. So I checked all the fuses in all the fuse boxes, pulling one by one, and all are good. Everything else in the van is fully operational. I thought it was the transponder, so I completely took it out and put everything the way it was before I started, and it still won't start. I had a mechanic take a look at the van, and his Tech2 was showing there was a "short to the battery". The battery was beginning to weaken and we had to stop troubleshooting, but the mechanic said that it could be due to low voltage. The mechanic tried doing the 10 minute reset for the PassLock, but the light isn't going out at the 10 minute mark. After doing a full battery reset for 15 minutes, the Tech2 read all tests passed. He tried the 10 minute reset again with no positive results. Has anyone ever had any similar issues with the PassLock? I'm kind of at a loss, and I'm trying to prevent fronting the bill from a Chevy dealership.

Passlock and DBALL's dont really get along sometimes. I would unplug everything connected to the vehicle and have a jumper wire on the accessory and try and get the starting working again first.

Thanks for the reply! I had taken the entire system out and it still wouldn't start. I went back yesterday to check everything I had done. I took the tape off all the wires I had soldered, and one of the wires actually snapped - broke in two! It was right where the solder met the sheath. I checked the other wires, and they were very weak and ended up breaking too. I guess they don't make wires like they used to! The worst part is with a good tug, the wires acted like they were together. I ended up using crimp connectors instead of solder. Van works great and I don't have any issues with the DBALL2 on this van.

I know this is always a debatable issue between installers, but this is the exact reason that I do not like to solder wires. Yes the soldered area is stronger then the original wires, but that's the problem. It's stronger then the wires, and this type of issue can happen. What I prefer to do is skin the wire im splicing into, spread the wore apart, thread my new wire in between then wrap around the original wire then tape and wrap. I have never had any issues with wires coming loose. Just my two sense. Avoids hours of troubleshooting.