dball2, xl202, 2011 mks

RSR configuration. 402.LINCOLN v1.12 firmware. Car does not detect key. Instructions suggest 5 or 6 loops around the factory fob and 5 or 6 loops on the backup transceiver. Brown and yellow wires connected using 16 gauge wire. The car tries to remote start but does not detect the key. If I put the fob directly into the backup transceiver it will start. Do I need a smaller gauge wire to conduct the signal? Does the wire looped fob need to be closer to the loops on the backup transceiver? Installation guide I used can be found here: http://xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9226&productid=553&firmwareid=5290 Thanks.

Take one wire of extention phone cord and put 15 to 20 turn and for sure is working after

Thanks for the response. I emailed Directed and they recommend 24 gauge wire. I'm thinking the insulation on 16 gauge wire is the issue. I'll attempt to find some smaller wire tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes the problem.

I could not find 24 gauge wire locally. I did find 20 gauge unshielded copper wire. I tried using this. There was less than 4 inches of separation between the fob and the backup transceiver. I made 12 solid loops around the fob and secured it with electrical tape. The ring on top of the transceiver was made of 8 loops approximately 1.5" in diameter. I secured the ring to the top of the transceiver with electrical tape. Connections were made in this order: Brown wire --> fob --> backup transceiver loops --> yellow wire. This setup will not allow the car to detect the key on remote start. I confirmed again that BROWN / yellow wires are not energized when remote started. I also confirmed again that the BROWN / yellow wires are experience continuity during remote start. The pair lack continuity when the bypass isn't starting the car. This seems long and I apologize for that. I keep thinking I'm missing something obvious.

I was never able to get this process to work. I did find 24 gauge wire. I wrapped it in loops and took part of my dash apart to put the other loop(s) in direct contact with the backup transceiver. I ended up getting a 1101T module. The wiring diagram did not tell me which wire was GWR so I tested them all til I found it. A much better solution that worked perfectly. There may be some super secret method to making the original instructions work but, after several days, I wasn't able to find it. Good luck all.

use a forin evo-ride for bypass, or idatalink tb. the problem is youre using a DB-ALLTed

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Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

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