auto dimming rv mirror splice / 16 18awg?

I'm a complete novice when it comes to this stuff, but I'm planning on adding an auto-dimming rear view mirror to my car. For the power source I planned to use a 10A ATO/ATC Dual Fuse Tap which is listed as being "16 gauge/5 inch"... so does that mean I should use 16 AGW for everything? The wire will be routed from the mirror down the A-pillar and join the fuse tap just below the steering wheel. The reverse-lamp and ground locations are a bit further down just behind the driver kick panel. So the distances aren't far. The fuse-tap naturally has 2 slots. One for the original fuse and one for the new fuse. What size fuse should go in the new slot? The existing fuse is 15amp; should I use the same amp in the new slot, or move to a 5amp or 10amp fuse instead? Not sure it matters, but the fuse I'm tapping is the fuse the factory auto-dimming mirror would have run from had the car been equipped. So a 15amp would have been responsible if the mirror was factory installed. Finally, for the reverse lamp splice - if I do actually connect it - I was just going to use one of those small bladed splice connectors. They come listed for specific gauge size as well, so I guess I should go with 16 there, too? Should I tape the splice connector up once it's in place? Do they generally break free after a while? I'm doing all this with connectors and taps because I want to have the option of easily removing everything should I want to sell the car or just remove it for any other reason later on. Thanks

14-18AGW is what most shops keep on hand for general purpose wiring such as this. 16AGW is fine. You won't find much support on this forum for the scotch-loc connectors. If you don't wish to solder, just doing a poke/loop/tape/ zip tie is pretty much the best connection, short of soldering before taping. The zip tie is there to prevent the tape from unraveling in extreme heat and cold climates. Without the solder it is still very easy to remove and put back to factory. Check with the mirror manufacturer for the recommended fuse rating. Most of those have an inline fuse already attached, so you can pre-fuse that at 10a usually. 15a if a relay is involved ( I don't care what anyone says a standard relay can spike to 12-13a on its own). To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Thank you for your reply. Why don't people like the splice connectors? Do they fail?

You are relying on an interim piece of metal to poke through the insulation on 2 wires made at 2 different times and by 2 different manufacturers. The likely hood of there being a poor connection is extremely high. If you can not see metal to metal contact how do you know it is a good connection.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*