1999 buick century autopage rs-665-2w

What is exactly needed to be hooked up for this system to work? Tried an idatalink bypass module for vats and that wouldn't work. Ended up bypassing with resistor. Will run with key. The ignition will come on with remote start, but won't crank with remote start. Any ideas?Anything worth doing, is worth doing in excess!

Try remote starting the car with the key in the ignition. If it starts, you haven't interfaced with the VATS/Passkey I system correctly. Make sure that both ignition circuits are powered up. Recheck with a volt meter that the ignition and starter wires are connected correctly.sparky

Sparky, I am positive the vats is bypassed properly. I hardwired the proper resistor in. For all intensive purposes I could start the car with a screw driver if I didn't care about the tumbler. Both ignition circuits are triple checked as are both 12 volt constants, starter output and accessory. The brake switch circuit, hood pin ground and park/neutral circuit are proper as well. I am really stumped here. I am fresh out of ideas.Anything worth doing, is worth doing in excess!

Use a volt meter and check remote starter outputs: ignition, start and accessory during a remote start attempt. Insure that you are grounded to the vehicle chassis. Confirm that tach is programmed and gives you AC voltage between 1 and 9 volts while engine is running. Try also disconnecting the remote starter from power and reconnecting it. It could be in a logic lock up state. When check the main battery connections, have the harness unplugged from the unit. Some units will give false readings if connected.sparky

crazieabe wrote: I am positive the vats is bypassed properly. I hardwired the proper resistor in.

99 seems a little late for VATS. I couldn't find any info online that clearly defines the system used for the 99 Century. I did find an explanation in the Downloads for the 555 Bypass module that says "passlock does not have a resistor in the key". So if your key has a resistor, I guess that is still VATS. Passlock is different. Yes, there's a resistance, but there's more than "installing the resistor" for a Passlock bypass. There's a wire that needs to be broken during crank. You can use a relay, but one of the commercial bypasses is cleaner. I'm not super-familiar with passenger car, but in the trucks, if the VATS/Passlock bypass is the problem preventing a remote start, the SECURITY light will be illuminated after the system attempts a Remote Start, but the IGN is still on. So watch the dash during a RS attempt: Does the SECURITY light come on? If = yes, it's your bypass.

First of all, Thanks for your input guys. Second, I must apologize for not responding faster. Had some personal stuff interfere with work. Anyway, here is what I found... The info I was given was... https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/332.html The problem with this is, there is an additional ignition wire on the car side of things that needs to be hooked up for remote start to function. It is actually a white wire. Here is the info from alldata. white - ignition output pink - ignition 1 orange - ignition 3 yellow - crank red - batt. RED / white - batt. 2 brown - accesory Interestingly enough, all 3 ignition wires needed to be hooked up for car to start, blower motor come on, and running lights. The accessory wire or "brown" wire ended up needing nothing. Go figure. Not sure why, but seems worth noting in this instance, as this information is different than what is listed on this site. Anyway, on to the next one, how many 99 buicks are still out there anyway, LOLAnything worth doing, is worth doing in excess!