2011 Toyota Tacoma and Viper 5706v

Hello, My Tacoma has power lock/unlock, but no keyless entry. I'm on the first stage mapping out all my wires. I'm following this guide from Tacomaworld. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/252032-how-install-viper-5704-alarm-remote-start.html From the Viper Wires-Doorlock Harness, there are two wires ( Blue and Black, 500mA), and they both (-) Polarity. It shows that they're connecting directly to the 2 wires from the Tacoma (GREEN/ Black and Purple). After some more reading, I found this Relay Module from Amazon "451M Door Lock Relay Module".   Do I even need that Module? Thanks

Probably just a typo, but the Viper's 3 Pin Lock connector has 2 wires, Green ( Lock ) and Blue ( Unlock ).   You can connect themdirectly to the indicated Key Cylinder wires mentioned in the RefferenceSheet.PDF from your link.  No need for a 451M Door LockModule.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Probably just a typo, but the Viper's 3 Pin Lock connector has 2 wires, Green ( Lock ) and Blue ( Unlock ).   You can connect them directly to the indicated Key Cylinder wires mentioned in the RefferenceSheet.PDF from your link.  No need for a 451M Door Lock Module.

Thanks for the reply. Why would one needs a 451M Door Lock Module then? What's it function? I also need to buy a 20mp fuse, and 20 amp inline fuse holder to wire a relay for the starter. I posted the question in that forum about the products since the link has expired. Is this what I'd need here? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bussmann-in-line-fuse-holder-for-atc-fuses-bp-hhd-30-rp/5171326-P?searchTerm=inline+fuse+holder http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bussmann-fuse-pack-20-amps-5-pack-bp-atc-20-rp/25984941-P?searchTerm=20+amp+atc+fuse

There are many different styles of door locks on vehicles.  Yours operates with a low current (-) pulse.  Some systems need

a (+) pulse, while other vehicles have a resistance based "one-wire" door lock system.  If you take a look at the 451M installguide your will see diagrams of the various systems it can handle.

Yes, the ATC style fuse folder and fuse will work nicely for your install and will match the ones on the Viper.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: There are many different styles of door locks on vehicles.  Yours operates with a low current (-) pulse.  Some systems need a (+) pulse, while other vehicles have a resistance based "one-wire" door lock system.  If you take a look at the 451M install guide your will see diagrams of the various systems it can handle. Yes, the ATC style fuse folder and fuse will work nicely for your install and will match the ones on the Viper.

Awesome, Thanks!! Another question to follow up: I'm mapping out my wires right now. I've looked at the wiring diagram for my 2011 Tacoma from this link: http://www.S P A M.com/2011-toyota-tacoma-remote-start-wiring-guide/ and also from Bulldogsecurity website. Everything is lined up between the two site, except for one: from Modified Life: Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire (-): GREEN/ Black Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness from Bulldogsecurity: STARTER GREEN/ BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 7 With one stated as (-) and one stated as (+). I believe this wire needs to connect to the Violet (+) starter output from Viper. Is this going to be a problem with the discrepancy of (-) and (+)?

As you noticed, the various wire guide listings have conflicting information and sometimes flat out wrong info.  It is always

prudent to make up a wiring sheet compiled from the various available sources, noting the discrepancies, and then use a DMM to locate and verify each wire.  From my review of the .pdf file mentioned above, that info looks accurate.  Here is aanother consistently accurate source for wire info :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Toyota&model=Tacoma

This is what you should find during DMM testing :

12volts WHITE/ red (30A) (+)    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5Starter GREEN/ black  +            ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7   Second Starter             BLACK/ white  +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3   Ignition   BLACK/ red  +    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6   Second Ignition            blue / YELLOW  +   ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1   Third Ignition       N/A        Accessory        WHITE/ green  + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: As you noticed, the various wire guide listings have conflicting information and sometimes flat out wrong info.  It is always prudent to make up a wiring sheet compiled from the various available sources, noting the discrepancies, and then use a DMM to locate and verify each wire.  From my review of the .pdf file mentioned above, that info looks accurate.  Here is a another consistently accurate source for wire info :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Toyota&model=Tacoma This is what you should find during DMM testing : 12volts  WHITE/ red (30A) (+)    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5 Starter  GREEN/ black  +            ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7   Second Starter             BLACK/ white  + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3   Ignition BLACK/ red  +    ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6   Second Ignition blue / YELLOW  + ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1   Third Ignition N/A        Accessory     WHITE/ green  +  ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 2

30A for 12 volts WHITE/ red? What kind of DMM would measure that much current? I have a craftsman 82140, and it would measure the current up to 10A only. Is it necessary to check for the current if you can identify the voltage?

OK.  For sake of argument, we will take some information on pure faith.  As +12V professionals, the marking of "30 Amp" could

be verified several ways, some of them destructive tests.  For our purposes, we will locate that wire, verify that is shows +12Vall the time and looks to be sufficient gauge to support a 30 Amp draw.  If you had the full factory wiring diagrams for the truck,you would find that that wire has a 30 Amp fuse on it somewhere.  The important thing is that that wire can support most of the current needs of all the ignition circuits in that connector.  If you were adding door lock actuators and a couple of big sirens,you might want to use another +12V constant source.  In the write-up you you are following, the OP does just that.  For his Starter2relay he draws +12V constant from the fuse box.

The basic DMM tests to locate & verify vehicle wires goes like this :

When testing for a wire that is +12V, set the DMM to 20V DC, connect the Black test lead to chassis ground and use the Red test lead to probe for the wire.  The DMM will show +12V when it finds it.  ( Ignition wires are in this category. )

When testing for a (-) type wire ( door locks are one example ), our DMM set-up is slightly different.   ( How do you measure nothing?)

In this case we connect the Red test lead to +12V constant and the Black test lead to the suspect wire.  What happens is, wheneverthe suspect goes goes to (-), the DMM circuit path is completed and the DMM shows +12V.

There are additional wires that we really can't test without special test equipment, wires like the transponders TX and Code ( RX ).

For those wires, we must apply all our talents in locating the wires as per the bypass modules install guide.  Fortunately, thebypass companies are very good at this ( except XpressKit, IMHO ).  You might have to go into full detective / deductive reasoningmode to find the correct plug and wires, looking at various bypass module guides for the same install.  ( This is another area were the +12V Professional earns his keep, experience and resources are very important.)  The OP has a nice picture of the transponderplug and as long as the number of pins and wire color and pin locations match-up with the install guide, you are good to go.

Soldering is fun!

Thank you sir ! I really appreciate for all the feed back. I'll attempt with the install this weekend. I'm sure I'll have more questions follow up. Luckily, I don't need a by pass module so there will be less wire for me to solder. Thanks again.

I'm doing the installation today and a bit concern at the naming calling out on the Ignition, Ignition 2, Engine Starter , and Engine Starter 2. Vehicle Ignition Wire (+): Blue / YELLOW Vehicle Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Vehicle Second Ignition Wire (+): BLACK/ Red Vehicle Second Ignition Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Vehicle Accessory Wire (+): WHITE/ Green Vehicle Accessory Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Vehicle Second Accessory Wire (+): N/A Vehicle Second Accessory Wire Location: N/A Automobile Engine Starter Wire (+): BLACK/ White Automobile Engine Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire (-): GREEN/ Black Automobile Second Engine Starter Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness As you can see above (from S P A M . com), it's calling out different from Bulldog security website and the link you provided above. It's call out Engine Starter Wire : BLACK/ White, where the link you provided call it Second Starter........ Could you help me clarify this please? I've check out the voltages, and it's all checked out, just the naming that make me uncomfortable. Thanks

kreg357 wrote: OK.  For sake of argument, we will take some information on pure faith.  As +12V professionals, the marking of "30 Amp" could be verified several ways, some of them destructive tests.  For our purposes, we will locate that wire, verify that is shows +12V all the time and looks to be sufficient gauge to support a 30 Amp draw.  If you had the full factory wiring diagrams for the truck, you would find that that wire has a 30 Amp fuse on it somewhere.  The important thing is that that wire can support most of the current needs of all the ignition circuits in that connector.  If you were adding door lock actuators and a couple of big sirens, you might want to use another +12V constant source.  In the write-up you you are following, the OP does just that.  For his Starter2 relay he draws +12V constant from the fuse box. The basic DMM tests to locate & verify vehicle wires goes like this : When testing for a wire that is +12V, set the DMM to 20V DC, connect the Black test lead to chassis ground and use the Red test lead to probe for the wire.  The DMM will show +12V when it finds it.  ( Ignition wires are in this category. ) When testing for a (-) type wire ( door locks are one example ), our DMM set-up is slightly different.   ( How do you measure nothing?) In this case we connect the Red test lead to +12V constant and the Black test lead to the suspect wire.  What happens is, whenever the suspect goes goes to (-), the DMM circuit path is completed and the DMM shows +12V. There are additional wires that we really can't test without special test equipment, wires like the transponders TX and Code ( RX ). For those wires, we must apply all our talents in locating the wires as per the bypass modules install guide.  Fortunately, the bypass companies are very good at this ( except XpressKit, IMHO ).  You might have to go into full detective / deductive reasoning mode to find the correct plug and wires, looking at various bypass module guides for the same install.  ( This is another area were the +12V Professional earns his keep, experience and resources are very important.)  The OP has a nice picture of the transponder plug and as long as the number of pins and wire color and pin locations match-up with the install guide, you are good to go.