Viper 4204 in 2010 Santa Fe GLS

Here is a wiring diagram indicating all of my intended wiring connections. I would very much appreciate any advice anyone has. I want to operate the Remote Start and Lock/Unlock with factory alarm activation/deactivation. No trunk pop on this vehicle, nothing else fancy. Thank you for your help! Questions: 1. What is a light flash isolation wire 2. Does H1/6 go to body ground? 3. What is a Flex Relay? 4. How to wire into the two alarm wires...you'll see in the chart. 5. Should H2/6 come from any door trigger (door pin)? 6. What is a Status Output? 7. H2/10, Polarity is opposite. 8. Should my AUX outputs 1 and 2 be connected to my ACC 1 and 2? 9. Do I need AUX 3 and 4? 10. H2/21 Activation Input? 11. H2/22 Should this go to ACC 1 or 2 or nowhere? 12. Any other advice

This is a Viper 4204 going into a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS. No transponder key.

H1/4 - Can't comment on. H1/5 - Should be Just White. That will go to either parking light + or - depending on your jumper/ H2/1 - Not used H2/2 - Is your car automatic? If Yes, just ground this. H2/4 - https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1085 h2/6 - If this is just a remote starter, and an automatic, you don't even really need this. Otherwise, I don't know about a common wire. H2/9 - Status output tells your bypass module to run. Since you're not using one, you don't need this. You're sure you don't have an immobilizer on a 2010? Flex relay is a programmable output that can be either 2nd ignition, or 2nd accessory. In your case, you will have to program it to 2nd accessory DO NOT Connect any small -200ma wires on the 24 pin connector, (ign, acc whatever) to anything on your ignition harness. You wont use any of them and you will destroy your starter brain if you do. Aux outputs are simply that. Small current wires to drive auxillary things like window controls modules, turn on a heated seat, whatever. Do not connect them to your ignition, or any high current (thick) wire unless you really know what they do. H2/21 - Don't use H2/19 - Factory horn input. Thats used as a trigger for an alarm. Don't use it. H3/1 Ignition can be in and out, because when you're programming, the starter is off, and it will want to see an ignition signal. H3/2 You need this to power the flex relay. A good rule of thumb is to connect all the red wires (Red, RED / white, RED / black) all the fused ones, to constant +12. Your ignition harness only supplies 40A though so you may need another supply. Most of these questions are pretty basic, and if you don't understand the difference between high current ignition wires, and small -200ma (-) wires, you can really hurt something.

Fantastic Information mscguy! Thank You! Great Info! H2/2 Car is automatic so I will ground this. H2/6 I want this to function with the existing factory alarm as well, does this have to do with that? H2/9 I use a regular, all metal key I had cut at a hardware store to start the car, does that mean I don't have a transponder/immobilizer? Flex Relay: What does the Flex Relay do? How exactly do I hook it up? Do I need it? A few remaining Questions: 1. Do I just ground H1/6? 2. Do I need a Flex Relay for anything? 3. I couldn't find info from the link you provided for the security wires, how should I splice one from the brain into the two on the car for both arm and disarm? 4. H2/12?? 5. Is H3 all correct? what about H3/8?

H2/6 has nothing to do with factory alarm. Readyremote only lists the drivers door trigger. Bulldog security lists all door trigger as Orange (-) @ DRIVERS KICK PANEL, (BROWN, 24-PIN PLUG), PIN 12 This is probably dome light supervision or something. You'll have to test. H2/9 yeah, I guess no transponder key, no bypass, = no need for this wire. A flex relay is a built in relay that can be programmed for either Ign2 out or Acc2 out. In your case, you have to program it for Acc2 out. Yes you need it. H3/6 (flex relay out) -2nd acc Yellow (+) Ignition switch pin 4. There is two yellows. One is keysense. Don't mix them up. Test everything with DMM H1/6 - Don't use. It simply provides a ground signal when your car is locked. Door lock, unlock, arm wire etc. Search download section here for Techtip 1300 and read it. H2/12 is just the (+) version of H2/6. Some cars have a + door trigger, others have a (-). H3/2, H3/5, H3/8 H1/1 (all the red fuse leads) Have to go to +12V. H2/1 Don't use The rest looks okay at a quick glance. Test every wire you hook up though.