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1998 Honda CRV Viper 4105V install No Crank


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tags95civicex 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: December 31, 2017
Location: Nunavut, Canada
Posted: December 31, 2017 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tags95civicex
Hello, I've done some searching on this board before and after creating an account and I can't seem to find an issue that is exactly like mine.
I normally stay away from Remote starts but this vehicle should have been an easy one.
Remote Starter Kit Viper 4105V
Vehicle 1998 Honda CRV Automatic
I have wired the system according to these specs (with a few exceptions mentioned below)
the12Volt
Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 White/Black Ignition Switch Harness (This was not connected, should it be?)
Accessory Yellow Ignition Switch Harness (Heat/AC)
Tach Blue 24 Pin Connector above Fuse panel
Neutral Safety Wire Gray (-) Gear Position Switch
Brake Switch Green/White Brake Switch
Trunk Release Yellow/White (+) Switch (not connected)
Trunk Pin Blue/Black (-) 22 Pin Factory Alarm Connector behind Driver's Kick (not connected)
Parking Lights Red/Black (+) Green Connector above Fuse Panel
Head Lamp Red/White (+) Fuse Panel Red/Blue High Beam (not part of this remote starter)
Factory Disarm Yellow Driver's Kick Panel this is Ignition. for Alarm use Relay (not connected, there is no factory alarm)
Door Trigger Light Green/Red (-) Gray Molex Driver's Kick or Alarm Connector (not connected)
Door Lock Green/White (-) 22 Pin Factory Alarm Connector Driver's Kick
Door Unlock Green/Orange (-) Must use Relays
Horn Wire Gray/Silver (-) 22 Pin Factory Alarm Connector Driver's Kick (not connected, simply because I don't like the horn as a signal, always watch the lights)
Windows Up LF=Red/Blue, RF=Blue/Yellow, LR=Green/Yellow, RR=Yellow (not connected)
Windows Down LF=Red/Yellow, RF=Blue/Orange, LR=Green, RR=Yellow/Green (not connected)
Everything is hooked up, but the vehicle will not start. The lights turn on but the vehicle does not try to crank. I ran the Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics, and I'm getting code 3, Low or no RPM, low battery (voltage and virtual tach modes). I double checked the tach wire I used and it works the same as the wire from the distributer.
When I first installed the system I did the tach learning and the system behaved like it should for this process.
My lock and unlock functions work fine. The system will try four times, if I press the brake pedal it stops trying.
Fuel pump is turning on, but the starter does not turn.
Have I done something wrong? Where should I start to diagnose this issue.
geepherder 
Platinum - Posts: 3,668
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Posted: December 31, 2017 at 5:55 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote geepherder
Yes, connect ignition2. Also, connect your door trigger (required for programming without a bitwriter) and program for automatic transmission (manual is default).
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
tags95civicex 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: December 31, 2017
Location: Nunavut, Canada
Posted: December 31, 2017 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tags95civicex
I connected ignition 2 and it made no difference.
This particular alarm doesn't have a door trigger so I'm not sure how I could set it up.
I did however figure out what was causing the no start. On this particular alarm there are two 13V inputs. I had never run into this before so I turned to the internet and I found an article that stated that some vehicles use 2 power wires, so the remote should be the same. This article I found in the depths of the internet also said if the vehicle only came with one power wire, to only use the one wire.
After double checking my other connections, I hooked up the second power wire to a 12V reference and the auto starter now works.
Thank you for taking the time to respond geepherder.

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