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Idatalink Newbie, 2010 Ford Explorer, DIR-FO(RS)-FO1A


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89saleen 
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Joined: January 27, 2019
Location: Montana, United States
Posted: January 27, 2019 at 10:51 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 89saleen
2010 Explorer AT install. DIR-FO(RS)-FO1A There is nothing in the install guide about whether to cut the black loop wire on the RS box for the auto trans install. This may be obvious to most of you but I just want to make sure. Everything else seems pretty clear. Thank you.
True character is revealed in a crisis
89saleen 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2019
Location: Montana, United States
Posted: January 28, 2019 at 3:39 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 89saleen
Well, I went ahead and cut the loop. I had to program it 3 times but it works. Now the only problem is hooking up the lights. The install guide says parking lights wire is blue/white. It also says the circuit should read 12v when off and 0v when switched to parking lights (non-automatic). When I test the circuit is reads 12v off, 12v park and 0v on headlights. I have the specified relay wired up and ready to go, I just need to know which wire to tap. It works fine without the lights hooked up but I want them to work as intended. Any ideas?
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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 28, 2019 at 5:20 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
While the iData install guide only shows one location for the (+) Parking Light wire you
could go to the SJB. The Blue/White (+) Parking Light wire is in Plug A, a Brown 32 Pin
plug, at location Pin 11. The SJB is under the dash on the drivers side.
Soldering is fun!
89saleen 
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Member spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2019
Location: Montana, United States
Posted: January 29, 2019 at 11:20 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 89saleen
Thanks kreg357. I'll have a look at it this weekend and post my findings. By the way, the OEM remote works okay but I can see where more range would be helpful in different scenarios. If I get another fob will the unit need to be reflashed or just reprogram with the new antenna hooked up (or nothing)?
True character is revealed in a crisis
kreg357 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 30, 2019 at 6:04 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Well, you've chosen DIR-FO(RS)-FO1A firmware so the expectation would be to use a
XL202 RF DECODER and XL202 ANTENNA. You would need the ADS-HRN(RS)-XL02
harness to connect the XL2002 to the ADS FO1 and compatible Directed remotes. I
don't use Directed products so I'm not sure of the procedure but here is the terse install
guide info :
All aftermarket remotes must be programmed to the RF-Kit.
Refer to the RF-Kit user guide for aftermarket remote features and programming procedures.
Soldering is fun!
89saleen 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2019
Location: Montana, United States
Posted: February 16, 2019 at 9:21 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 89saleen
Kreg357, Is the Smart Junction Box behind the driver's kick? Because if it is not, it is really buried in there. I just got the FSM for the vehicle and it included a wiring diagram. It looks like I can just tap the wire from the headlamp switch (non-auto). It is BR/WH. I need to test its function first. Access is MUCH easier from the side of the dash. I already have the required relay wired up and ready to install. And thanks for the info about aftermarket remotes.
True character is revealed in a crisis
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 17, 2019 at 5:51 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Pretty sure the SJB is under the drivers side dask, perhaps tucked up in the side kick corner.
Some wire guides list a (-) Grey Parking Light wire at the headlight switch connector. I wouldn't use that
wire unless you interrupt another wire at that same plug with a relay. Think it is a Black/Blue wire that
needs to be open before putting a (-) on the Grey wire. You may not have to get at the SJB to get the
(+) Parking Light wire. Test the Blue/White wires in the Drivers Kick Panel for a (+) Blue/White Parking
Light wire with a DMM and use that. Here is the info :
Parking Lamp (+)      BLUE\WHITE (+)      DRIVER KICK
Soldering is fun!

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