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Wiring Gauge, Compustar Remote Starter


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mbaker1082 
Member - Posts: 6
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Joined: November 30, 2018
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 02, 2019 at 4:05 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mbaker1082
Hey guys I am installing a compustar remote starter in my 08 f250. There are 2 14 gauge constant power wires on the unit. These wires are huge compared to my ignition harness so I want to run these fused to the battery. Being my truck is a gas f250 I have a decent length to go to the battery. Should go up to 12 gauge to run to the battery or would I be fine just using 14 gauge? There are 2 constant wires so I will run 2 to the battery. Thanks for your time! Mike
kreg357 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 02, 2019 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Which Compustar unit? If it's just a R/S system without an alarm, why not make your connections at the main ignition switch plug? There are two Blue/Red wires that are both +12V constant. Photo below :
Wiring Gauge, Compustar Remote Starter  -- posted image.
They should be able to supply adequate power for the system. I just did a 2008 F350 diesel last week using those wires for power on a CS800-s unit.
Soldering is fun!
mbaker1082 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2018
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 02, 2019 at 6:38 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mbaker1082
It’s the 800 model with just remote start and keyless entry.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 02, 2019 at 6:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
You should be fine using those wires at the ignition switch harness. I didn't connect to the Keysense wire but did power both ACC wires. I also used the (+) Parking Light wire. I have more pictures if you need them.
Soldering is fun!
mbaker1082 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2018
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 02, 2019 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mbaker1082
Thank you for the picture that will help me a lot! I already have the unit installed but when I did it I used some heavy gauge wire to hook to the battery for testing to make sure it worked fused of course! I will get those constant wires moved tonight. I actually got very lucky with this truck. It is an xlt model but it was special ordered as a fleet vehicle so it was ordered with no factory security system and no keyless entry. I have no roof clearance lights so I was able to tie into that parking light feed in the drivers kick panel area to hook up my parking lights.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,786
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 02, 2019 at 7:09 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The F350 I did had RKE and the chipped keys ( PATS system ) but no Factory alarm. Wasn't too bad. Don't forget the 4 wires that Ford includes as a firewall pass-through for the Hood Pin. Makes life real easy. They come out in the engine compartment near the drivers side hood hinge area and are near the E-Brake release on the inside.
Soldering is fun!
mbaker1082 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: November 30, 2018
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 02, 2019 at 7:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mbaker1082
Sorry that’s what I meant mine doesn’t have the chipped keys lol

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