Problem with Power Window Conversion, 2007 Silverado 3500 HD

So a while ago I installed the universal power window conversion kit in one of our work trucks, a 2007 chevy silverado 3500 HD work truck (non power window but has factory power locks). My issue is that the passenger side window motor BARELY moves when using either driver or passenger switch included in the kit. I warn coworkers that if they roll it down, they have to tap the passenger button while manually helping the window all the way up. There is a relay installed. In fact I even bypassed that relay and ran 12v directly to the battery, still same issue. I did the old small 12v battery trick to the blue and green wires on the motor itself, and the motor ******* works like a charm. So I really am stumped!

You need to check for loose/dirty/corroded connections/terminals. Check your grounds as well. Probe around with your meter and check for unwanted voltage drop while activating the power windows. You could backprobe the power window motor and read DC volts while it's activated. Say, for example you only read 8-9 volts. Work your way back until you get the desired 12 volts and perform your necessary repairs.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.

Attach black meter lead to a known good ground. In both of the following situations you must have the window attempting to raise. Red meter lead to wire A of the motor, notice the reading. Then red lead to wire B of the motor, notice the reading. If one of the readings was over 12 volts, you have a bad ground. If you did not get 12 or above on either reading, there is a bad connection in the power path.

i am an idiot wrote: Attach black meter lead to a known good ground. In both of the following situations you must have the window attempting to raise. Red meter lead to wire A of the motor, notice the reading. Then red lead to wire B of the motor, notice the reading. If one of the readings was over 12 volts, you have a bad ground. If you did not get 12 or above on either reading, there is a bad connection in the power path.

geepherder wrote: You need to check for loose/dirty/corroded connections/terminals. Check your grounds as well. Probe around with your meter and check for unwanted voltage drop while activating the power windows. You could backprobe the power window motor and read DC volts while it's activated. Say, for example you only read 8-9 volts. Work your way back until you get the desired 12 volts and perform your necessary repairs.

thank you both. i will be doing both of these troubleshooting steps.

i am an idiot wrote: Attach black meter lead to a known good ground. In both of the following situations you must have the window attempting to raise. Red meter lead to wire A of the motor, notice the reading. Then red lead to wire B of the motor, notice the reading. If one of the readings was over 12 volts, you have a bad ground. If you did not get 12 or above on either reading, there is a bad connection in the power path.

it was definitely a wiring issue. i ended up replacing all wires and re-ran wires to make sure nothing was getting pinched. my 1st reading was only 9.8 volts and on pass. side was 7ish volts. definitely not good enough. i ran 12ga from battery directly to the +/- input of the harness for the switches as well. i can now easily roll up and down the pass window with ease from the driver side and pass side. thank you!