2003 Toyota Camry, Remote Start Door Lock Signal

Hey folks, I could use some good help with the installation of a Remote Start +Push Button install on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L So I have the push button start working just fine, but the remote start doesn't work because the brain box isn't receiving the lock signal. The kit is designed to use the factory remotes for remote starting the vehicle by pressing the Lock button on the remote 3 times. I went ahead and purchased some SPDT relays and diodes and I'm not afraid to use them I just need to understand how if necessary. The problem I see is that there is only one wire coming out of the box for the Lock signal and that is tied to the blue/yellow wire in the driver's side kick panel.    I posted this on reddit and I'm posting it here because I can find more knowledgeable people here judging by the amount of info I have already found here: So I'm still having no luck with getting this remote start to work. I've been reading different articles online about the 2002-2006 Camry and there negative type B central locking systems. I'm trying to wrap my head around it all so I can better understand what to look for. If I probe the blue/yellow wire that is mentioned in the diagram, the doors lock and if I probe the blue wire mentioned in the diagram the doors unlock. This happens without me touching any buttons. The probe I have is suppose to tell me both voltage and polarity but with both of these wires I get nothing. The blue/red door trigger wire I get 12 volts on it at idle and it drops to 0 for a moment whenever I use the key in the door to lock the vehicle. A few places I've visited online say when you are installing an alarm that you have to use all three door trigger wires and diode isolate them. I'm wondering if this is something I need to do? Also, even though I have the push start button working would it be a good idea to install an SPDT relay for the second starter wire? For the sake of better understanding what I'm looking at, here is the general wiring diagram supplied with the remote start system whcih happens to be the Easyguard EC010 from Amazon: Primary Ignition Wires from the Remote Start: Yellow-connect with starter wire / I have this connected with both the black/white and black/yellow starter wires in the ignition harness Brown-connect with ignition 2 (ON disconnect)/ I have this connected with the black/yellow ignition wire in the ignition harness (I put a DMM on both the black/yellow wires to see which was which while the vehicle was cranking. Red-connect with +12v/ I have one of these connected with the 12 gauge constant 12v White-connect with ignition 1 (On)/ This I have connected with the black/red wire in the ignition harness Red-(there are two red wires)-connect with +12v/ this is connected with the white 20 gauge constant 12v wire in the ignition harness Orange-connect with ACC/ this is connected with the blue/red accessory wire in the harness Auxiliary Input Wires: Black-chassis ground/ bolted to steel, not going anywhere Orange to foot brake wire/ I have this connected to the green/white wire above the brake pedal Brown-any turn signal lamp/ I have this connected to the green positive parking light wire White/Black-actuator unlock control wire/ I have this connected to the blue wire in the white plug in the driver's kick panel White-actuator Lock control wire/ this is connected to the blue/yellow wire in the blue plug in the driver's kick panel. Keep in mind I have also tried the blue/red lock motor wire Blue-fuel pump, tach wire or constant 12v/ I have this connected to the black/orange tac wire in the obd2 port 2 purple wires-immobilizer bypass wire or GWR status wire or status output wire/ I at first had one of these tied into the key sense wire and the other to ground but have removed both wires seeing I don't have any alarm in the car to begin with and there is nothing to bypass that I see. I'm using the bulldogsecurity.com wiring diagram. I would really like to get this thing going. I have 4 SPDT relays ready to go along with a pack of diodes. If anybody has any pointers or could offer some sound advice on what to look for next or what to do I'm all ears. Thanks for any help and I really appreciate your time and patience!

First, you definitely want to keep the two vehicle Starter wires isolated from each other. Not sure what type of R/S system you have but from your wire listing it only has one (+) Starter output and no (-) Starter outputs. If this is the case, you can create two separate Starter outputs using two relays controlled by the R/S's one Starter output. Wiring below : Starter Relay 1 Relay Pin 85 to Chassis Ground Pin 86 to R/S (+) Starter output Yellow Relay Pin 87 to +12V Constant fused at 25 amps Relay Pin 30 to Camry Starter1 Starter Relay 2 Relay Pin 85 to Chassis Ground Pin 86 to R/S (+) Starter output Yellow Relay Pin 87 to +12V Constant fused at 25 amps Relay Pin 30 to Camry Starter2Soldering is fun!

Next, the second R/S Red +12V input wire is presently connected to a thin gauge +12V constant wire in the main ignition harness. This wire is probably fused at 7.5 or 10 Amps. Not sure what that second Red wire feeds but it could be an issue. I would move that to the very thick Black/Green +12V constant wire at the fuse box. This is shown in the Camry Pictorial. Here is a link : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=143770Soldering is fun!

Now for a question. It appears that the 3X Lock R/S routine is using the White-actuator Lock control wire. Does it list the polarity of the needed input? If it's looking for a (+) input then all you have to do is connect it to this wire : LOCK MOTOR WIRE          BLUE/RED (5-WIRE TYPE)     IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS Locate the Driver Door Harness in the DKP and for test this wire with your Digital Multi Meter. It should show a +12V pulse with a door Lock command. If your R/S system needs to see a (-) input pulse on this White wire, you will have to use a relay to do a polarity conversion on the signal. Relay wiring below : Relay Pins 85 and 87 to Chassis Ground Relay Pin 86 to Blue/Red Lock Motor wire listed above Relay Pin 30 to R/S White Activation wire You mentioned that you have some diodes. If you have 1N4004 or 1N4007 diodes, then use one to coil quench the polarity conversion relay. Connect the diode across Pin 85 to Pin 86 with the band towards Pin 86. This will protect the vehicles Lock Motor circuits. The 1N4001 should not be used for this purpose due to it's lower peak voltage rating.Soldering is fun!

Hey kreg357, First off, thank you so much for the detailed reply. It's nice having someone with sound knowledge on the topic. Thank you again, for taking the time to stagger through my messy post and still coming out with such a definitive solution. So I have 5 5-way relays but the diodes I have are 5W 12v zener diodes 1N5349B. To be honest I didn't pay attention to this when I purchase them except that they could handle 12v. I went ahead and ordered some of the 1N4007 diodes and they should be here in a couple of days. I will then move forward with your solutions regarding both the starter wires and the lock signal wires. If I may ask, what are the dangers or concerns with tying both starter wires together. Not that I'm questioning your knowledge but just so I can better understand why? I'm an aerospace mechanic and I can build a fuselage and I can build enthusiast computers but I have to admit I don't quite understand automotive electronics. Until a week ago I didn't even know installing EXTRA relays was a thing. And using diodes for installing what seems like it should be a simple plug it in and turn it on type job was foreign to me as far as my car is concerned. I like the challenge though and I want to learn something new. If you wish and I can actually do it on this sight I can upload the manual in PDF form for the R/S I'm using. Just in case you needed clarification on something I wrote in my post. If what is there is enough then awesome. Thanks again for your input and I will report back when the parts come in.     Have a good one!

The 1N5349B is a zener diode and not suited for the simple blocking needs of the typical R/S install. The 1N4007 will handle the relay coil quenching duties well. As you know, when you connect one R/S Starter output to two vehicle Starter circuits, the vehicle circuits are now common to each other or combined electrically. With your Camry, the two Starter wires are different gauges and fused at different ratings. If something failed on the Starter2 circuit, instead of being protected by a 10 Amp fuse the circuit would get 30 or more amps before the Starter1 or R/S fuse blew. Additionally we assume both Starter1 and Starter2 as the same type circuits and receive power at the same time but that might not be true. While I haven't heard of any major problems with combining Starter circuits on Toyota's, I have heard of problems combining Ignition1 and Ignition2 on them. Seems to blow a fuse in the engine compartment, AM1 or AM2 I think. Basically the Toyota engineers designed it with two separate circuits and we as aftermarket system installers should keep it that way. Extra relays, diodes, terminal lugs, etc are items used frequently. The aftermarket systems are somewhat generic in design to allow use in many different vehicles. Some vehicles only have one Ignition, one Starter and one Accessory circuit. Others, like your Camry, have multiples of several. Some cars need a double pulse to disarm their factory alarm system or a double unlock pulse to open the doors. Professional installers know these issues and can chose/recommend a R/S system that can handle these specific / unique vehicle needs. If you can upload the units install manual to this sites Downloads Section, that would be great. That way we could see the info on the unit you are installing and better help you. It would be on site for future reference for others. Re-reading your original post, it seems you already tried the Door Lock Motor wire as the direct input to the R/S activation input. That leads me to believe that the R/S is looking for a (-) signal on this wire. The relay polarity conversion should make the 3X Lock function work. Just remember that simply pressing the cars' interior door lock button 3 times in a row will also kick off the R/S. Learning is good and there is plenty to learn with this constantly changing 12V industry. I'm still picking up new things from others on this site.Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the explanation. It's funny how some things make "common" sense only after someone points out would seemingly should be very obvious. I didn't even think about the different gauge wires. And the fact that these aftermarket devices are meant to cover a wide range of vehicles. Well explained, I appreciate it.    I contacted the company regarding the lock signal and he said that the white wire by default looks for a + signal. He didn't say whether or not you could change them over via a jumper in the box, so I sent another email asking for details on this particular model. The model I'm trying to work with is the EC110 series which is based on the slightly older ES002 series. The newer EC002 series are the ones where you can open the box and move the jumper to switch polarity.    I went with this kit because it wasn't super expensive and I wanted to get my feet wet in dealing with 12v systems. I'm eyeing both an EC002 model and a Compustar CS4900 for a later time when I'm more familiar with how to troubleshoot.    I will upload the manuals for all three models of the Easyguard system. The EC002 is far better explained and detailed as far as the wiring is concerned.    Thanks again for your time and patience. Be safe.

So if the R/S white wire is looking for a positive signal and the car has type B negative what does that mean for the relay? Also the files are uploaded. The ES002 model diagram is the one I'm currently using. Thanks again!

If the White wire is looking for a (+) signal the Blue/Red Lock Motor wire should work via a direct connection. No relay needed. Just test that wire with a DMM to be sure you see a +12V pulse with a lock command.Soldering is fun!