Relay Suggestion

IMO the relays should only be in an "energized" state when they are activating something. Example being the trunk and door relays should only "flip" when popping the trunk or moving the lock motors. Starter kill is the same way (85 to "ign" and 86 to alm). Domelight the same as locks. Viper refered to this a "fail safe". The mode it sounds like your referring to (might be my imagination) would activate the end product like the domelight when the relay was put to a rest state or failed. Think in the starter kill case they called it "fail secure". If the relay failed (or wiring for that matter) you weren't starting your car. Next part: I tried to get power from same place and in groups. You don't want to use 30 amp fuses in anything other then to power the RS side of the alarm. Locks lights should be 15 or less. Windows 20amp and the dome 5 or less.

Thanks floaterr, i guess since the relay diagrams had 12v i thought i had to supply that much but i guess it just depends on what you need to power.

oh duh.. No I think I see what you where asking... The instructions show like 85 or 86 with +12v on them and then the other wire the alarm? If that was the case then they'll be fine and won't pull power till the alarm tells them to. An alarm/arm/disarm condiditon then it just sits there. One power wire is usually fine. I lazily put some sources together on one fuse and if the locks and domelights stop working then I know I blew a fuse and don't have to bother checking at the brain or lock/domelight connection. Trunk release I keep way seperate if it directly sends current to the selenoid. If it just activates a factory relay then I bundle it with something else. Thats if it needs a relay at all.