I'll include a tech sheet at the end of this, with wire colors, that should be of help to you.
As I'm sure you know, the fuse is blowing because there is a short circuit someplace. And you said the fuse doesn't blow until you try to operate the locks? If you replace the fuse and do nothing, the fuse stays good, right?
I see this as three possibilities: Bad doorlock/keyless module, shorted wires, or a short in one or more of the doorlock motors inside the doors. (By the way, the doorlock motors are called actuators.) I would say that a shorted wire is by far the most likely problem. Factory modules rarely fail, especially on a car that isn't very old.
You'll need a multimeter and the ability to use it correctly.
First, take down the driver's lower dash; it's easy. One screw on each of the bottom corners, and the top edges are just held with clips. Unplug all of the wires from the dash panel and get it out of your way. Just to the left of the steering column, locate the black module that says "INTEGRATED UNIT." That's what controls the locks, keyless, and a few other features in the car.
Locate the three wires listed as "lock motor," "unlock motor", and "disarm defeat."
-all three of these wires are supposed to rest as a ground; this ground is provided by the integrated unit.
-when the doors are locked, "lock motor" should turn to a positive.
-"unlock motor" serves the driver's door, and "disarm defeat" serves the other three doors and the rear hatch. When you press unlock on the door panel, both of these should turn into a positive.
-If you have a keyless remote, "unlock motor" is positive on the first press, and then "disarm defeat" is positive on the second press......this is how the unit unlocks just the driver's door on the first press of the factory remote.
So anyway, now you should have a rough idea of how the thing is supposed to work.
Unplug the module, and test all three wires for ground. At this point, these wires should be entirely dead, because you've unplugged them....if one of them is showing ground, there's a short to ground. Most likely, it's at or near the rubber boots where the wires go into the door.
If that doesn't help you find the problem, I can think of a few other possible strategies, although they are more invasive and more time consuming.
--Take all three of those wires and cut them right in half, one at a time. Replace the fuse and operate the power lock switch. If the fuse STILL blows, the integrated unit is probably bad...although that is very unlikely.
If instead you hear the unit clicking, and the fuse doesn't blow, you're getting somewhere.....the unit is good, and now you know that your problem is somewhere downstream.
-This one is drastic, but it could yield results. Take all five door panels off, and unplug all the actuators. Replace the fuse and try the lock switch.
If the fuse still blows, the problem is not in the actuators.
If the fuse doesn't blow, plug the actuators back in, one at a time, until you can get the fuse to blow again...and that is the actuator that is bad.
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