Aladdin a-2000 question

I had this alarm installed previously and it worked flawlessly.  I removed it from my Celica and im putting it in a 98 Ford Mustang.  I had a alarm place in the Flea Market install it, but they couldnt get the doorlocks to function properly.  The car had a factory keyless entry, yet when the alarm is hooked up it wont lock/unlock the doors.  The installers said it was a negative pulse coming out.  But that didnt help me much.  Im going to pick the car up, and I will probably work on it on sunday.  Any ideas of what could have happened?  I know that the wire for the locks on the brain unit IS cut.  Which im pretty sure it should have been.  Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions to try when I look at it?  Thanks!

The lock wires on the mustang are need to be cut and relays installed like this: J Rilla

Owner/Installer

The wires on the Aladdin are set up for both (+) or (-) according to what polarity you have the P9 RED / BLACK wire hooked up to. GROUND will give the locking wires a (-) and 12 VOLT + will give the locks a + pulse.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Sorry for the thread-jack, but I have bought the same alarm and I'm planning to install it. I currently have a Bulldog RS1200E remote starter and I'm going to replace the starter with the Aladdin. I have several questions. How much current does the IGN1 or IGN2 wires draw from the Aladdin unit? It's because I'm thinking of just splicing IGN1 on the Aladdin and feed it to both IGN1 and IGN2 in the car. This way, I don't need an extra relay to hook up IGN2 (trying to be a little lazy here and keeping the install simple :) ). The Bulldog had a dedicated IGN2 and did not need a relay. The other question is regarding the door inputs (-, P10 blue) and the dome/courtesy light wire (-, P9 white). For my car, they will be spliced into the same wire. So should I put a diode in one/both wires? And lastly, how well do you guys hide the Aladdin main module? I know it makes all the difference when it comes to security. The problem is that the main module isn't that small and there are a whole bunch of wires going to the module, so I'm having a hard time deciding where to hide the module. Thanks in advance :)

So would you suggest that I dismantle my door and find all the wires in there?  Because I know that the harness coming out of the door has about 12 or more wires coming out.  The installer also said that the door locks were a negative pulse and shouldnt need relays... although he is the one that couldnt figure out how to hook it up.  And also the when I open the doors to the car the alarm wont go off either?  He couldnt get that working either... So would this also be caused by the lock wiring?  And last thing, would any of this be caused by the factory alarm disarm wire not being connected correctly?  Because I know i didnt have it connected correctly, and im not positive if the alarm guys fixed it?  Thanks again for the replies!

I'm going to take a stab at it... I don't think the lock wiring will affect the alarm protecting the door, because they are using two different wire harnesses on the module and they should be spliced into very different wires. Door lock wiring varies a lot from cars to cars, so I'm just going to help you diagnose the part where the alarm should monitors/arm the door. My guess is that the door trigger wire is not installed properly. Don't rip your door wires out. Check out the wiring diagram found here: Wiring Diagram The wire you want to check is the Domelight wire. From the wiring diagram, it shows that it's a (+) triggered door and it's located in the driver's side kick panel. Find that wire and make sure the P10 Gray wire from the alarm module is spliced into this. Should be a very thin guage wire. Once you fix this, opening the door should trigger the alarm once it's armed.

See this is the funny part.  I cant find that wire.  I found a black wire with every other color known to man in the drivers kick panel.  I pulled the entire wiring junction garbage with like 30 wires going into it out and still couldnt find that stupid wire.  I even tried to test some wires coming out of the door harness and plugged those in, and guess what... Nothing happened.  Does anyone know about this Factory disarm wire?  And what exactly hooking it up does?  And that wire too, I also cant find that wire in the drivers kick panel... That is the only logical explanation I can think of...but what do I know.  I do know that the keyless entry control module is in the trunk behind some panels, although I will have to take apart my speaker box to get to it... but should I look at the wires going into that and use those?

You won't like how this sounds, but if you can't find it, keep looking. Maybe you should make another thread asking other people who have a 98 Mustang and have installed an alarm. By the way, how are you finding/testing the wires? Do you have a test light or a multimeter of some sort? I know that there's A LOT of wires going thru the kick panel and you can only be sure you have the right wire if you test it. For this Domelight wire, you should see +12v only when you open the door. Close the door and it should change to 0V. You said that you have asked someone to install it for you. So where did they splice the P10 Gray wire (from the alarm module) into? What happens to that wire if you open/close the door? One last thing to test is to first arm your alarm, then apply a +12v to that P10 Gray wire and see if it triggers the alarm. This way you know for sure your alarm still works.

Oh, as for the factory disarm wire, it simply bypasses the original factory alarm (if your car has one). This allows the aladdin module to remote start the car without triggering the factory alarm or having the factory alarm kill the ignition.

OK... I have been using a multimeter to test my wires.  I have checked everything that has been connected to the alarm.  I find that Idea of applying the 12v to the p10 gray wire to make sure it still works is a good idea.  because im starting to have the feeling the alarm died on me while its been out of the car or something.  I did have an alarm shop try to fix it for me and reinstall some wires, yet the guy there gave up on it because he couldnt get the locks to work either.  Unfortunately I havent had the time to check all the connections he remade because of work and all.  I will be checking throughout next week.  Thanks for the help!