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This makes no sense to me


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nikkicv 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: February 06, 2004
Posted: February 23, 2004 at 4:29 PM / IP Logged  

Hi guys,

Trying to work out some things with my alarm install to finalize it. Today I had some time to tackle correcting the hood pin switch that would set off the trunk ajar light in my 99 Hyundai Accent's dash.

Originally I had the trunk switch (used the factory switch for the dash indicator) and an aftermarket pin switch for the hood tied to the (-) instant trigger input of my Viper. I learned by reading this site that you could stop the hood pin from setting off the trunk ajar light by diode isolating the hood and trunk switches from each other. So today I used a pair of 1N4001 diodes that I twisted the anode side leads together to form a "Y" like I saw here, and soldered the twisted pair to the (-) instant trigger wire from the alarm harness. I then soldered the hood pin wire lead to one leg of the diode "Y" and the trunk switch to the other leg so that the diode bands face the switches.

So, I expected to no longer see the trunk ajar light when I popped the hood, but guess what, I do!?!? I triple-checked that the diode bands face the switches, and they do, but I am still getting the dash light. I don't understand! Can anyone help?This makes no sense to me -- posted image. What did I do wrong?

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 24, 2004 at 1:02 AM / IP Logged  
First a stupid question - were you absolutely certain that your doors and trunk were shut when the light was on?
Second - check the point where the inputs are soldered to the diodes to make sure they aren't accidentally making contact. Make sure you tape off each leg separately.
Big Dog 
Gold - Posts: 1,265
Gold spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 02, 2002
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: February 24, 2004 at 8:58 AM / IP Logged  
Hi Nikkicv,
First of all, I don't see a need to isolate. Who cares if the light comes on with hood open? It's not like you drive with the hood open that the light would bother you.
You can't harm the electronics in the car by grounding a wire that requires a ground.
Also, if the light comes on while driving and you're convinced that the trunk was slammed shut, that little light could keep your car from looking like an opened can of spam! It's a win/win!
Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.
JMaxx93 
Copper - Posts: 73
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 02, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 24, 2004 at 4:58 PM / IP Logged  

:thumbsup:  great thinking

nikkicv 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: February 06, 2004
Posted: February 29, 2004 at 9:43 PM / IP Logged  

Final diagnosis: BAD DIODE!

Only thing I can think of is that I had heat on it too long while soldering... Pulled it apart today, made a new "Y" with a pair of fresh diodes and everything works the way it should now.

BTW - Big Dog, my reason was not just because of the indicator light. I'm using the factory trunk switch, which is +12V when closed and 0V open, with a simple pin switch for the hood (open circuit when closed, grounded when opened) with both tied to the same instant trigger input to the brain.

I gotta admit you have a point though, and I could have just put the one diode on the trunk lead! This makes no sense to me -- posted image.


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