Matrix RS2

Sorry guys if these are stupid questions, but I want to be sure before I start wiring this thing in.  I'm getting ready to install a Matrix RS2 in an 01 Silverado, auto.  My first question is about the pink ignition input wire coming from the 555L I'm also putting in.   Does this splice in with the pink wire coming from the remote start harness (from the brain) and then into my trucks ignition wire? Sorry if I'm not clear, basically I'm just wondering if all these connections should be together or separate.  Second question is, the primary harness has a 'remote start activation input' (blue/wh) that will connect to the 555L, since I also need this input for the Digital tilt sensor I'm going to add, will I need to add any diodes?? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks guys.

Mark

Pink wires:  Yes, the 555L's ignition wire, and the RS/2's ignition wire, both tie into the Silverado's main ignition wire....which happens to be pink also.  I usually bench-prep my product by tying the little pink into the big pink....and then splicing the big pink into the car..........but since they're all going to the same place anyway, do whichever is more convenient for you.

blue/white wire:  The instructions aren't very clear; try reading them again.  If you send a ground pulse to the blue/white, the remote starter process turns on...........this could be used by one of those systems where you dial a pager number, and it tells your car to remote start.  Or if you're doing a really custom install, you could mount a little pushbutton, which would make the remote start kick in. For everyday installs, the blue/white is not used.

You'll use the smaller blue or blue/black to activate the 555L.  Those wires put out a steady ground whenever the remote start is active.

The rest of the truck is pretty easy; all wires are right at the BCM.

You'll notice that there's a separate door trigger wire for each door.  Instead of wasting time playing with diodes, do this:  Tie your alarm's door trigger wire into the left door.  Tie the alarm's "trunk trigger" (blue?) wire into the right door.  Added bonus:  If the car has been violated, the diagnostics mode will tell you which door was opened.

Tachometer:  The DEI techsheet wants you to go to the ECM by the battery, which is not only difficult, but completely unnecessary.  Look at the left side of the engine, at each coil assembly.  There are four wires on each.  You'll notice that three of the wires are always the same color, and the other is different on each coil.  Use one of the "always different" wires for tach.

Thanks, man that info will really help out, especially the tach info.

I must have gotten mixed-up while looking at the schematic earlier, but you're right, I'll be connecting the 555L to the BLUE wire on the H3 Remote Start harness. My question was that I was also going to use this connection for my audio sensor, and was wondering if I needed to diode them.

However, you also mentioned that I could also use the BLUE/BLACK for the 555L, if this works the same output as the BLUE, then I should be able to use this separate wire for my audio sensor and not have to mess with any diodes, correct??

I haven't installed any DEI product lately, so forgive me if anything is slightly inaccurate.

In a small (5-pin?) plug are a multitude of remote-start wires:  brake, hood, tach, ..... and a small blue and a small blue/black.

If I remember correctly, the way the unit is set up from the factory, both of those wires will put out a negative signal while the remote start is on---which is what the 555L wants.  If you read the features-programming part of the install manual, you'll see that one of these wires can be reprogrammed to do other things......I forget what those other things are though.

When you say audio sensor.....is this a sensor that will go off if a window is broken?  If so, you've got the wrong blue wire in mind....it shouldn't be connected to either of those small blue wires in the remote start harness.

So basically, this audio sensor is going to put out a ground when a window gets broken.......and obviously, you want this to cause your alarm to go off.

In the main alarm harness (the largest one on the brain) are these three wires:  purple, green, and blue.   Purple will make the alarm go off if it receives a positive input---mainly found on older Fords---so forget about the purple wire for your car.  The green and blue wires will cause the alarm to go off if either sees a ground.  Normally, green is used for the doors, and blue for the trunk.  Your car has a negative door trigger system, and I'll presume that your audio sensor does too.

Take the car's two door trigger wires----tan and blue/white---and attach a diode to each.  Combine the other ends of each diode together, and attach those to the alarm's green "door trigger" wire.

Take the negative output of your audio sensor, and connect it to the alarm's medium-size blue "trunk trigger" wire.

Most alarms have some kind of diagnostic mode----if the owner returns to the car and gets four chirps instead of the usual two, he knows the car has been violated in his absence.  If he looks at the flashing LED, he can ascertain which "zone" was violated.  With your install, if the diagnostics says that the "trunk zone" was violated, you'll have to remember that this really means "audio sensor zone" on your particular install.

Chris is absolutely correct in his latest post so don't worry about it being "inaccurate"