Code Alarm CA-535

Does anyone know if this remote start setup has a way to install without using the tach hookup? If not, is the tach wire under the drivers side dash anywhere that I can tap into? Thank you, John

LOL....I forgot to mention what vehicle. 1997 Chevy Tahoe. I can't believe I did that. John

It does, but the code rep I've talked to blames some of the problems w/ them going non responsive (and needing to be reset) on not running tach or running 12V straight from the battery. (I think that's malarkey, but I wanted to add the disclaimer). For many reasons, running tach is a better idea than not running it. Open the door. Turn ign on. Off. On. Press and hold the Valet button. -- Light turns on (after 5-10 seconds) -- 3 chirps (after 5-10 more seconds) Press the valet button 4 more times (until you hear 7 chirps). Press the opt button 4 times, and the lock button once (on an already programmed remote). Also, see the instructions in the manual. Me

Thank you! I got it in tachless mode now. While I was in the programming mode I set all the options to the way my parents wanted everything. This was purchased and intalled for them by me as a Christmas gift. I really didn't want to drill a hole through their firewall to hook up the tach wire, although I did find it right at the ECM in the "White" harness. I only installed this for the keyless entry and remote start capabilities. It seems to be an entry level alarm system as well. It has a shock sensor and door open monitoring system which sounds the horn (very annoyingly) when interupted. This was unexpected, but welcomed. But here's the problem. Whenever the alarm is activated, either by the shock sensor or the door opening, you can stop it by pressing the unlock button with no problem. But when you get into the vehicle and look at the blue LED it's flashing 3 times. You can still use the remote to lock/unlock the doors, but you can't remote start it. If you try, all you get is the parking lights flashing 3 times. I've tried unlocking the doors with the remote, get in and start the truck with the key, take the key out and exit the truck, lock the doors with the remote, and try to remote start but it does the same thing. I took the 2 fuses out of the wiring harness, put them back in and the system worked perfectly during our testing. So I just figured it froze and needed reset. Well, about an hour later I hear the alarm going off (after we set the shock sensor to OFF in programming mode). I thought it was dad showing mom what it can do. Well, it did it on its own. And sure enough the LED was blinking 3 times and the truck will not remote start. All we get is 3 flashes of the parking light. Any ideas on this? Thanks a lot for the help so far. I'm glad that I found this web site!

Both of those are as designed. The blinking 3 times tells you which zone set off the alarm. Turn the ignition on and then off in order to reset it. See chapter 9 of the installation manual linked to above. Once it's in the "tampered with" mode, it will not remote start until it's out of that mode (turn ignition on and off). Think about it-- someone got in your car, stole stuff, left wires dangling-- do you want your car starting at that point and now you have to replace half the electrical system instead of just your radio? It's also a safety issue, although w/ automatics, that's less of a big deal. Something is wrong w/ the door trigger that you've used (should be the purple wire @ the headlight switch, hooked to the green wire coming off the 425 unit). Perhaps one of your actual door triggers is becoming futzy, or perhaps you have a poor connection (was it soldered? no cold solder joints?), or perhaps something else is wrong w/ the wiring. Perhaps your green wire got routed too close to metal and the insulation has been chewed through. If it happens consistently enough, try and be there when it goes off-- see if the dome light comes on... If you just disconnect the green wire, the only real problem is you'll have less security. Turn that shock sensor back on (and calibrate it well), and it'll probably go off when a door is opened... Me

You know what? The drivers side door pin switch did break on me, but I got it back together and in place. I had to order a new one because it doesn't always register as "open" when the door opens. In other words, about half of the time the dome light doesn't come on when you open the drivers door. It does seem to work pretty good when closing the door, but I guess if it's broke, it's broke. The ignition does nothing to reset it. Maybe because the broken switch has the alarm thinking it's still open? So are you saying that I could just disconnect the green wire (until the new switch assembly comes) that I have hooked to the purple door pin wire? I did it right at the door pin switch. It was easy to get to behind the fuse panel if you just remove the fuse block as well. That's the only reason I went there for it. The only thing is, if I disconnect that wire I will not be able to enter programming mode. Am I thinking correctly here? If so, I could just adjust the shock sensor part of it before I disconnect the green-to-purple joint. Thank you again! John

I would also like to add that I hooked the BLACK/ white wire and the green wire to the purple wire at the drivers door pin. I got this tip in the 425 Installation Manual. John

OK, I've got the new door pin switch installed. Turns out the old switch was working fine, it just had a broken housing. The problem was the 30amp breaker in the fuse box beside the door pin. It was way too loose in the socket. I'm not sure how that happened because I never took it out, or even knew what it was for. Anyways, I put the RS in tach mode since I was in there anyways. I figured it might as well be done right so I don't have to mess with it again. All is working well now. Thank you for all of your help! John