All out of Ign and Acc Outputs, so..

The '05 Dodge Ram I just did needs 4 total outputs from my R/S in order to program the Bypass module.  So I wired in a relay to be triggered by the "negative out while running" from the R/S, but I still need this same "negative out while running" wire for the module as well- It probably is not a good practice to tie these together, without diode isolating, but I have done this before and it seems to work.  My fear is that the relay or may "seek" a ground back through the bypass module, or vise versa, so I hooked the positive side of the coil to an ignition hot, which will shut off the relay when there is no ignition, as well as using an ignition hot to switch to the 2nd ignition, to be sure that nothing can stay on and run down the battery.

I have seen a Pontiac Aztek, that uses very small ignition wires- which run other "true" ignitions through relays, and this very same thing was done, without diodes, and about once a week, the owner complains his battery is dead.  What are the chances the 2nd ignition relay being grounded on the same "negative out while running" as the GM-U7 module is somehow holding one of the vehicles Ignition relays on to run down the battery?  I did an amps draw test- showed only the expected 20 milliamps or so, but this is after the circuit is broken, I have to do this to hook up my DVM

One can only hope that soon my R/S module maker will offer 4 Hot outputs (2 acc, 2 ign) instead of 3, and maybe even 2 separate "neg out while running" outputs,  Any comments- or am I all washed up?

Maybe try gettin your hands on an astroflex.....all of there models have 4 additional outputs, that are programmable.

PLUS an on board bosch style "programable" relay, so that makes a total of 5 plus the standard Ig. Accs. and starter outputs.

Check out www.astroflex.com

If the man has used all of his outputs from his RS, he needs to be creative with relays.....so you go ahead and answer his question. AND Im not selling anything.....I just know of a superior product that ANSWERS all of his and other questions from posts on this site.Some people dont know there is a better choice, Ive been there, Im 42 and have installed all the crap I hear talked about for 20 years...I found a better way, and I like sharing it with whoever will listen.

If you have mutiple accesory or Ign. wires you can use relays and create a "daisy chain" of posative triggered relays, not really the best way, but effective AND safe. Just dont get em confused or crossed up. On your truck youwont need more than one extra relay for each circuit......not a problem

Brcidd, I hope I didnt offend you, or sound like I wanted to sell you something.I dont sell the stuff to anyone but my customers. I was mearly letting you know of a GREAT product that directly helped with the problem your currently having.  Good luck. 

NO Problem here..No offense taken ..... I just like to know and learn........

The '05 Ram I did last night with a Crimestopper EZ-90, I experimented with- there is one little ignition wire (pink/white) that needs to be hot when R/S- If I use this wire to (+) feed my relay coil (which will in turn feed my 2nd ignition) then immediately when I touch the (-) side of the added relay coil wire to the "(-) out  while running" from my R/S (which is ALSO connected to the (-) in of the scytek CHDL-PK bypass), the pink/white wire (of the truck) pulls in a relay elswhere in the system and the mileage indicator comes on, as well as continuous chimes.  This I believe is a RAP controlled device- because I have noticed it stays on when the key is out and shuts off when you shut the door- when the R/S is not being used.

The fact that this ignition wire is small guage indicates to me it pulls very little current and is used to energize a relay elswhere in the system.   The funny thing is that my added relay does NOT energize, yet the current must be going through it to energize the vehicle's pink/white wire relay. 

Now I got away from the problem by merely wiring my relay coil (+) to another ignition hot- I could have used a battery hot for both relay coil and "source to switch from (pin 30)"- but I prefer not to for fear of a relay sometime sticking and running down the battery- but perhaps I would be better to wire into battery hots.

I know now that I will avoid using little guage wires as a relay coil (+) source- for what I described above.

The '05 Aztek I mentioned has ALL ignition wires as little gauge- and I can hear relays engaging down in the consol-when key is turned on- so how do I add an addtional relay here- I suppose the best way is to diode isolate the (-) coil of additional relay from the GM-U7 I used, since they are both wired to the (-) "out whiile running" of the R/S- or perhaps I should feed both the (+) side of the additional relay AND the (pin 30) to a battery hot to avoid energizing a vehicle relay and running the battery down.  The reason to add an additional relay on the Aztek is because I get a pesky "service vehicle soon" message in the info center only while R/S is active- and I prefer my installs to NOT create questions from the owner- by not having any SES lites or anything else on.  Makes for a much cleaner install I think-- even though it starts and runs fine while this message is on. 

This Aztek also gave me a "parking lamp out" message when running without R/S when I wired my parking lite output as 12+ into the lite circuit- so I opted to give it the (-) input into the BCM plug which fixed that...  There is only so much wire charts give you- they never tell you why to wire a certain way- and you can't decide if there is an easier way or a specific reason not to do it this way- ahead of time.   Thanks for all your help- sorry for the long post....