OK... I HAVE GONE BONKERS.... WHY CANT MY INSTALL BE SMOOTH.. CAUSE I GUESS I HAD TO GRAB LIFE BY THE HORNS AND GO STRAIGHT TO HELL...LOL...ANYWAYS YEAH ITS A DODGE.... WELL MY PROBLEM IS THIS: 1. EVERY WIRE IS ON CORRECT... THE STARTER WORKS GREAT... THE HORN.. HOODPIN AND ALL BUT THE DAMN DOORS... 2. NOW IM VERY INTELIGENT BUT DAMN.. OK... THIS IS THE ONLY NEEDED COLORS FOR THIS OPERATION... HELPPPPP ME PLEASE!!!! DODGE DURANGO 2000 SLT PLUS! keyless..... Factory Alarm Disarm LT.GRN/ORG(-) FACTORY ALARM ARM SAME AS DISARM PowerUnLock PNK/VIO (+) PowerLock ORG/VIO (+) HAVE TO REVERSE POLARITY DriverDoorMotor01 BLUe (+) DriverDoorMotor02 ORG/BLk (+) PassengerDoorMotor01 PNK/BLK ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- DOOR TRIGGER YELLOW (-) ----------- DRIVERS DOOR BLK/BLUE ALL OTHERS TAN/RED TRUNK TAN/BLK THE ALARMS COLORS FOR ANYTHING THAT SAYS DOORS: VIOLET DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (+) GREEN DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (-) VIO/WHT FACTORY ALARM DISARM WHT/VIO FACTORY ALARM ARM AND ALSO I DONT KNOW IF THIS IS JUST OPTIONAL BUT THERE IS A 3 PIN WHITE DOOR LOCK CONNECTOR BLUE NEGATIVE UNLOCK (-) 500 MA RED (+) 500MA TRIGGER OUTPUT FOR OPITIONAL PLUG IN-DOOR LOCK RELAY GREEN NEGATIVE LOCK OUTPUT (-) 500 MA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK SO WITH THAT SAID.... THE SCYTEK COMPANION SOFTWARE DESCRIBES THIS.. ------------------ WHEN EQUIPPED WITH KEYLESS ENTRY THE DOOR WIRES WILL BE POSITIVE IMPULSES... MODELS EQUIPED WITH A FACTORY ALARM HAVE A ONE WIRE TO PERFORM ALL DOORLOCK AND SECURITY FUNCTIONS.. ----------------- A single wire is used to lock and unlock the doors. Lock requires a negative trigger through a 647 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger through a 1563 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a double pulse to unlock the doors. The first pulse disarms the factory security. Relays must be used. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK IM NOT TO UP ON RESISTORS AND DIODES BUT 12VOLT.COM EXPLAINS THEM WELL... BUT RADIOSHACK IS NOT HOW IT USED TO BE WITH KNOWLEDGABLE STAFF AND I JUST PUT TOGETHER WHAT I LEARNED... I GOT A 680 OHM FOR THE 647... PUT TWO 680 AND ONE 220 IN A SERIES ADDING UP TO 1580 FOR THE 1563... DIDN'T KNOW IF DIODES WERE NECCESSARY FOR THE ONE WIRE TRANSMITTING TWO DIFFERENT SIGNALS (-)(+) SEEMS LIKE IT BUT EVERY DIAGRAM I LOOKED AT NEVER ASKED... SO I DIDN'T DO THAT PART... WELL I SPLICED INTO THE FACTORY ARM/DISARM WITH ONE WIRE LEADING TO A SPLIT FOR THE ONE DIODE (LOCK) AND THE THREE DIODES (UNLOCK) SERIES.... THEY BOTH CONNECTED TO SEPERATE RELAYS AS SO... EACH TO 30, 87A N/C, 87 CHASIS, 86 12V CONSTANT OFF THE STEERING HARNESS, 85 TO (-) ALARM REMOTE STARTER..... TURNING ON SYSTEM LED TO REALIZING I HAD CONNECTED THE BLK/WHITE OFF THE ALARM (DOMELIGHT OUTPUT (-) 500MA WHICH THE MANUAL SAYS CAN BE CONNECTED TO THE DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (SEE GREEN AND VIOLET) TO THE PNK/VIOLET (POWER UNLOCK) OF THE VEHICLE THROUGH A RELAY (87, POSITIVE DOMELIGHT, 86, BLK/WHT -DOMELIGHT OUTPUT, 30 AND 85 TO 12V CONSTANT ON STEERING HARNESS) ... AS I WRITE THIS NOW REALIZING DOOR TRIGGER AND POWER UNLOCK ARE TWO DIFFERENT THINGS... ANYHOW.. THE UNLOCK FUNCTION WORKED ONLY BY PRESSING THE DISARM BUTTON BUT ARM DID NOT ARM WHEN DISPLAYING ARMING ON THE LCD... DISSCONECTING THIS WIRE FROM THE POWERUNLOCK ONLY LET ME ARM THE SYSTEM THROUGH THE DISARM BUTTON NOT THE ARM.. IT ONLY SAID ARM BUT DID NOT ACTUALLY ARM ON THE ARM BUTTON.... IM SORRY... SORRY... FOR THE LONG EXPLANATION... BUT I READ SO MANY FORUMS AND THE KNOWLEDGABLE AND WILLING TO HELP PEOPLE GET THOSE PEOPLE THAT SIMPLY WRITE UNANSWERABLE SHORT QUESTIONS THAT NEED MORE INFO.. WELL I PUT YOU THERE.... IM NEW TO THIS OK... LOL... HAVE A GOOD DAY GUYS... BELIEVE ME I'LL BE WAITING??????THANKS
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