DEI Sidewinder in a '04 Mustang

I have recently purchased an 2004 Ford Mustang Std. Edition w/Auto Trans., and was looking to install my previously used DEI Sidewinder 6500ESP w/Clock-Temp module into it. I've already found the wiring schematics for the mustang here, however there seems to be a lot of '***'s in regards to the use of/bypass of features like the stock engine kill module, etc.

Previously I installed the whole system into an older S-10, with no issue. However, considering that this is a reasonably new car (-10K miles), I'm concerned that the security in the Mustang may prove to be more problematic than I expect. Also, I know that many vehicles (like the GM units) require bypass modules to work around systems like the VATS resistor system, etc.

SO... two questions:  

Of course, because I'm a consumer and not an installer, DEI generally isn't much help directly, I've had to fight tooth and nail for any suport at all from them.

TIA!

Okay, I need the bypass module, thanks.  A question I have about that module is:

I called a few local installer shops, and they say they can get me a bypass module for about 65$, and that's it's reasonably easy to wire, however, how's the process for putting the transponder ring into/onto the steering column?  Does it actually go inside the plastic panneling?

I'm still thinking about installing it myself, I'm just curious if anyone has a one-to-one wiring colorchart for the 04 Mustang. As I mentioned, I have the wiring lists already, but I know that DEI has cheat-sheets that are available for their installers.

TIA folks.

I noticed in the documents about Diode's (1Amp) put inline with the door triggers/trunk, I'm assuming the usual Radiosmack special should work fine, yes? If so, the Sidewinder only has one wire for a (-) Negative door trigger input (H1/5 Green), however it seems that there are two seperate wires at the GEM, one for each door. Am I supposed to split the green to connect to both?  Addtl, there is seperate notations in the wiring chart refering to a DirectFax Document for the diode wiring-- Not that I may need it, but just curious what it refers to.

Thank you very much for the information, I believe after this conversation that I will likely take a swing at the underside of the dash and see how complicated things are. The local installers are offering 50$/hr @ 3hrs. min. install time; Personally I'd rather do it myself and soldier all the high-voltage connections. (I asked the local folks and they said generally they don't). I'm also thinking about investing in the DEI Window control module (up or up/dwn), however I don't know the cost for it at this time (or addtl. complexity, etc). Lets hope for the best right?   :)

Thx again.

**** Sorry for the double post, I found the notations here in the 'Diode' section of -12volt- here, which talks about paralleling two diodes by the anode end to the Alarm door trigger, then the Cathode end of each respective diode to each individual door trigger.   (RTFWebsite right?)  I'm assuming this is how I would do it.

Otherwise, looking over the wiring diagrams that I have now, it most of this seems relatively clear except for the remote start system - Heating/AC controls:  The wiring specs for the car state that there are three wires that go to the inition system for accesories: Blower, Airbag monitor, and Heat/AC controls. Obviously I won't touch the airbag (unless told otherwise), but would I just be powering the blower alone with the Orange Acc. wire from the Sattelite relay set, or do I need to power both the blower and the controls as well?

Thanks!

Considering I have completed a few installs myself, and I am (somewhat) familiar with this security system, it doesn't seem feasible to me to throw 250$ at an install that I could do myself. Inserting diodes is nothing, and general wiring is a snap. If I have to pull off some protective plastic covers, so be it.   I guess I was just looking for input from another installer that might have run into this same issue on other '02-04 Mustangs. like I said, the rest of the wires are straight forward.  If powering both wires is what I need to do, then that's fine, I'll wire up two relays; last thought is, of course, will the system drive an additional relay without issue?

..I really appreciate all the imput that I've received so far.

I purchased a "Peripherial" PATS Bypass kit for the Ford Securelock system, and so far have installed that device and dioded out the doors and trunk. Based on the wiring specs in the Bypass and the wires in my car (and after disconnecting the Securelock connector and watching my car try to start without a fuel pump) I knew I had the right connector for the most part. I wired it all up to spec, and theoretically configured it to 'record' the two keys that I have. However, following teh install instructions, when I put in the last key, and then applied ground to the module, the THEFT light wasn't supposed to blink (stating failure/problem).  I'm going to have a non-PATS key made today to test my last theory, to see if it's getting confused with my key and the bypass at the same time.   -- At this point I have not installed the remote starter yet, however, I have now investigated the underside of the dash; the install should be a breeze.

Any pointers on the Peripherials bypass unit?

TIA!

I never have good luck with the keyless Ford bypass modules.  Our store stocks most Ford transponder keys and we use a 666u and just program an uncut key for the bypass.  Works 100% of the time.

With the keyless bypasses, everyone we have done, we either can't get it to program correctly or it loses programming  and we see that car back about 2-3 times. 

IMHO, A 556u and a blank key are the way to go.  You can buy the key from the dealer for $30 and program it yourself.  Directions for programming are in your owners manual.