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open/close top, 1994 ford mustang convertible


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xtremecaraudio 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: June 14, 2005
Posted: June 14, 2005 at 11:44 PM / IP Logged  

please help! I need to be able to open and close the top on a 1994 ford mustang  convertible. I'm using the APS996A prestige  alarm and remote starter, what kind of a module do i need? (I need to turn the key to ign. and set the e-brake to open the top)

how do i do this?

thank you

jugga-nemo 
Copper - Posts: 81
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 15, 2005 at 2:04 PM / IP Logged  
My '93 Mustang drop-top doesn't require the parking break to be set for the top to workas I open and close it at intersections, but the ign does have to be on. With the window modules, they provide the power for you, so that should take care of the ign problem, but my top has the two clips to hold it to the windshield (to keep it locked down), and that was the problem that I ran into when I wanted to wire the top to my alarm with the windows (which I did the windows, very sweet looking with the top down to drop the windows from a distance). If you find a way to release the clips by remote, please let me know!
Tangkilla69 
Member - Posts: 13
Member spacespace
Joined: January 17, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 17, 2005 at 6:39 AM / IP Logged  
Jugga-nemo is right about a window module providing power for the windows but I don't think that will work in your case. Alot of convertible tops work off of a hydrualic pump and I don't think that window module can carry enough amperage to operate it. That is, if it( the actual motor) will even operate without the ign being on. As to the clips that hold the top down, I have no clue on that one. I wouldn't worry myself too much about it
Ziggy165 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: June 28, 2005
Posted: June 29, 2005 at 10:44 AM / IP Logged  

So, taking off from the previous 2 replies, you have to use the output that will run the top (like the trunk release or aux output, depending on your unit) to trigger a relay, with a heavy enough gauge battery connection wire to carry the load needed, and insure the relay you use has contacts that are rated to carry the load for the top/pump motor as well. 

Having said all that, before you can even go there, you have to deal with the clamps to the windshield frame.

My thought would be to use two remote trunk release solenoids. Ah, but where to put them? The one I got for my trunk uses a cable to pull the latch mechanism. IF (a big if) the cables can be routed up the windshield pillars and actually hook into the latch mechanisms in a way to release them, probably one on each side if the latches are mirror images, the solenoids could be mounted to the underside of the dash, behind the kick panels, or on the firewall. It sounds doable, but there are still go/nogo issues, like the length of the cables, will they reach or can you extend them with another cable if not, etc?

You would probably run the solenoids off a relay so the current draw for them both won't be through the alarm. It might be rated high enough to handle them both without, but don't over look this issue. Look to the specs.

On my FM 2009, there are two options for the duration of the trunk release signal, in case it takes a bit of time under power to insure the latch is fully released. However, I doubt your top lowers itself without your finger on the switch the whole time, and the trunk release signal would probably not last this long. If this is true, I would handle this problem with a cheap 556 dual timer IC chip and another 12 volt relay. One timer to wait a bit for the solenoids to unlatch, and then the other to power the top/pump motor for the duration needed to get the top all the way down. I won't add all that circuit data until asked, since I'd have to research it and you might not actually end up using it.

I may have covered enough ground to either get you going or make you give up, depending on your experience and determination to get the job done, but it sounds likes a fun project.

Now, closing that pony back up, THAT would be a CHALLENGE!

Ziggy165 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: June 28, 2005
Posted: June 29, 2005 at 11:17 AM / IP Logged  

I realized that last post was more then a bit theoretical, because we don't really know for sure what we're discussing, so  xtremecaraudio, start by getting some basics established.

1 - Do you have two clamps that hold your top to the windshield frame like most ragtops or not? If yes, you must detrmine if there is a way to release the clamps, and that depends on the mechanical construction of them. The thing is, I can envision it if they could be released with solenoids like I talked about before, but if the solenoids would have to be attached to the top, you have issues of mounting them and routing wires big time through the top's folding frame, so before going any further, this must be worked out.

2- Do you have to hold the button the whole time the top is going up or down like most, or just press and release? If you have to hold the button down, then some kind if triggerable timing circuit is needed, If not, forget that issue.

jugga-nemo 
Copper - Posts: 81
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 29, 2005 at 12:22 PM / IP Logged  
I don't see how you could run the wires up the windshield pillars to the top and still pull hard enough to release the latches (they have to move about 90 degrees from the lock position) and then when the top retracts, there would be two wires attached from the top to the pillars that would have to stretch. I was thinking that you could use the "wireless" door jam contacts (metal contacs that replace wires running through the jam so when the door opens, you loose power to the door; sorry, can't find an example on the web)to connect the trunk solenoids to the wires that run down the pillars, but then where to mount the solenoid to make it inconspicuous...
As for the timing, the window module that I used has a set of wires for each channel(two channels). Each channel has the input/output for windows, input from alarm, and output when running. Just loop the "when running" to the input from alarm to create a longer signal that will take it back all the way. And with my modules, they sense when the windows stop moving and they stop sending power to the window motors (so it doesn't fry them). Hopefully the same applies for the top.

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