Alarm going bad?

I have a 2001 Neon, and I have added in an aftermarket 5-wire power door locks by Tesor(?) and a basic APS-20B alarm by Prestige installed. The other night, I was leaving my local hangout with my friends and I couldn't start the car. After unplugging the power lock module and alarm module, it still didn't start, so my friend was able to jump my car and I could get home. Next morning I started the car and same thing, so I replaced the battery.

I plugged the power lock module back in and that seems to work fine, but when I plug the alarm back in, everything works fine except the keyless entry part. I have the red and green lock/unlock wires of the alarm connected to the brown and white lock/unlock input wires of the power lock module. It worked fine like this before my battery died, but now, if I unarm the alarm, the doors unlock, then lock. If I arm, the lock actuators don't do anything.

I unhooked the RED / green wires, and touched the green wire to both the BROWN / white input wires on the power lock module, and got nothing. If I touch the red wire to those wires, the doors unlock/lock. So what I'm guessing is that there's still current flowing through that red wire, even though I'm not pressing any buttons on my alarm remote. And I'm also assuming this is what killed my battery.

Thanks for reading this long post, and my question is in the subject. So is it possible that my alarm has 'gone bad' and I need to get it replaced? Right now I have the power lock module hooked up and the alarm module unplugged, just in case that is what caused my battery to die. Thanks.

According to the manual http://www.audiovox.com/manuals/installation/1286187C_IM.pdf on page 5 it says that it sends 300 mA through when you press the unlock or lock buttons. So I attached the DMM, red probe to the red wire and black probe to the green wire. When I press unlock, it shows about 140-150 mA, when I press lock, the multimeter read 0L, it's a Fluke 77/BN. I have no idea what that means. So I then attached the red probe to the green wire and black to the red wire, Now pressing lock it shows 140-150 and unlock shows the 0L.

The doors don't seem programmable at all. The kit just contains the 4 actuators, 2 of which are the 5-wire type, the wiring harness, and the power lock module.

Well, just in case anyone was actually watching over this thread, here's another post to bring some closure to my problem.

I took the alarm module today and tested it on my bench. And by bench I mean ironing board. =P I just hooked up the power and ground to a 12 volt power supply, and the lock / unlock wires to the 2 relay setup for aftermarket actuators. I put a DMM inline between one of the wires coming off the relay and the actuator, and it was showing 3 amps (well, the DMM is a Fluke 77/BN, and I had the probe on 10A, so I don't know if that's supposed to mean 10 X 3 = 30 Amps. The motor of the actuator was really warm.

So I tested this same setup, on a friend's borrowed Concept 100, and it showed 0 amps, which is what it's supposed to be unless I press unlock / lock on the remote, right? Unfortunately, my friend lost the remote, but it seems I finally got the answer I wanted.

Now I'm just stuck with the 5-wire door system, but at least that's not eating my battery. So that's the end of this story, now I'm just debating whether I should look for another alarm or not.

Tried it, still getting the same effect. Oh well. I ordered a Prestige APS-596. It looks to be the same as a 996, just without the remote start.

I'll make sure to hook it up the way you described, but does that then mean the power locks will only work with the remote?