200SX Alarm Queries

i'm fitting a Falcon Evo 4+ car alarm on my 1992 200SX (UK version of the 240SX). i have some general questions which i'm hoping can be answered here. i have a wire thats supposed to be connected to the alternator. its either to do with the built in remote start or turbo timer functions. it doesn't give me any sort of clue what on the alternator to connect to. if anyone has had to connect to the alternator before, what did they connect to? i have a sheet that tells me what to connect up to on my car, there is one point i'm a little lost on. there is one wire for the indicators on my alarm, the sheet says i need to fit to "GREEN/ YELLOW and GREEN/ black located above o/s kickpanel". am i correct in thinking that thats one wire for each side and if i splice them both up to the single alarm wire that when i was driving and i put on an indicator both would light up? should i wire it into the hazzards instead? can i splice in wires from the bootlight and from the main interior light together or will they mess up each other. my alarm came with a piece of wire in a 'Y' shape that has thick black connections where it joins together. i think it has diodes or some sort of resistors in it. what is this for, its not shown in the alarms wiring diagram. my alarm came with a dual stage shock sensor, i also bought an upgrade of a dual microwave sensor. i'm going to use the microwave sensor but would like to know if i can maybe use both. the alarm only has one socket - they could share the same earth and +12v wires but what about the input and output wires? Cheers, Tom.

can you please clarify what kind of alarm it is

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does anyone know if the 200SX/240SX uses a negative or positive trigger for the alarm?

sorry, i mean for the door triggers

Doors are negative trip. The diodes are probably for the doors. You don't need them for your car cause the switches are already tied together inside the OE harness. You can tie the foot lamps to the interior lamps, but then you'll lose the interior lamp switch functionality. Your microwave sensor most likely can use the same input as your shock if it's just a negative input. But should diode isolate the signal wires. What do you mean by indicators? You mean parking lights? That's should be RED / black. Grab that anywhere (ashtray, radio, headlamp switch, etc). Lastly, I have no clue why they'd tell you to connect a wire to your alternator?

i've connected the alternator wire up to my oil pressure light as i've read that the alarm needed a feed that changes amps from when the engine is cranking to when the engine is running - something to do with the autostart. here is a picture of the 'Y' shaped wiring which i think has diodes in. https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v20/EscyGT/738df7ca.jpg i was thinking maybe the Y thingy is for the Indicator wiring and it keeps them sepearate? there are 2 seperate colours i need to connect to for my indicators but only one wire on the alarm. if i connect them both to the one wire i'm thinking it'll make both sides go off when i only want one side. indicators on a UK spec car are lights on either side of the car to let people know when your turning. when the alarm is connected up, its designed to make both sides work at the same time. thats why i think the Y thing is for that?

've got my alarm fitted now. when i arm the alarm, the drivers door locks (and unlocks) on the key fob but the passenger one doesn't. i thought that if the drivers door worked off the fob, the passenger one would work also? there were only 2 wires to connect up to the actuator (lock and unlock) - if i had these the wrong way around surely the drivers door wouldn't lock in the 1st place? i connected my actuator to the rod that goes from the lock to the interior door handle. maybe thats wrong?

Some cars require diode isolation for left and right or front and rear lights. Yours shouldn't be that case. I'd use those diodes to isolate the shock sensor and microwave inputs instead. Oil pressure light connection? That just sounds weird to me. the Oil pressure sender in your car is an on-off deal. No pressure = no continuity, and pressure = continuity.... it's not a variable voltage out device. Your remote start works properly now? You used an actuator to pull the door lock? I forget if your car has central locking or not. If it doesn't, the passenger side isn't going to work.

i'm pretty much done with the alarm install now.haven't checked my remote start yet. with my oil pressure light, it comes on with the ignition and when the engine is cranking its on, but once the engine fires and the pressure is built up the light goes out. i think when the light goes out the alarm will stop turning over the engine. i have used an actuator in the drivers door as the C/L only worked off a key before hand. Cheers, Tom