’04 Yukon, 2nd Ignition

Just want to confirm a couple of things with you guys. All wiring diagrams that I have on hand or have seen posted here show the 2nd ignition as being a White wire with the Accessory being Orange. I have found the opposite to be true and have checked it with my meter many times. Can anyone confirm? Also, is the door lock & unlock only to be found inside the driver's door on a high-end model? Thanks! Todd

I checked bulldogsecurity.com and it shows that the 2nd ignition is white and the accessory is orange.  If you look at note 1, it shows that the vehicle uses a Special Multi-plex Type Door Locking System that will require (4)extra Relays Part #775, to do the Door Lock.Freddy Fred

i have installed many ....the diagram u r looking at r right.....whta is drawing u to the conclusion that ur meter is wrong.....what r the step u took?Where theres is a wire there's a way.

When I check with my meter, the White wire is @ 13.xx volts when the key is in acc. position or in ign. position. The Orange wire is at 13.xx volts only when the key is in the ign. position. So it would seem to me that the diagram is wrong. I'm doubting myself (not the meter really) because of what multiple diagrams show. In reality, it may not matter to the remote starter which is which but I'm not certain.

check the two wires while you crank, your acc will drop to 0, ign will stay at ~12VLife moves pretty fast; if you don't stop and look around once in a while; you could miss it.

Great idea! I did and it confirmed that the diagrams are correct. Still don't understand why the ign. is hot in acc. position as well and the "acc" is not hot in that position but at least it makes sense that the diagrams are calling for White being 2nd ign. Thanks!

it a GM thing, notice the battery indicator stays on even in accessory postion?Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Yeah, GM (and Chrsyler) do that with their second-ignition wires----it powers up very early as the key is moved forward. The important thing, as Hornshockey says, is whether or not the wire holds power as you move the key to the crank position. As for the doorlocks, there are two secret holes at the BCM where you can stuff wires in there and it'll work the locks........but it won't control the factory alarm, domelight, or perimeter lighting. Go to bypasskit.com, order the GM-DLBP. It'll take care of everything---not only the locks, but the Passlock bypass too. If you have not used one of these pieces before, read the install manual and you will see how easy it is----you make a handful of connections from your remote starter to the module, but then connect just one wire to the car!

Thanks guys, I've got it all setup and seemingly working although I'm getting a couple of pulses to the door locks for some reason when it locks. They are a couple of seconds apart too. ??? According to the book, you cannot program the lock for double pulse so I'm not positive what's going on but it seems to be working for the most part. I did in fact use the GMDL-BP module, just didn't understand right away that it was only the 1 wire to the databus. Thanks again to everyone for their help. Much appreciated. Todd