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Keyless entry Rav4


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bgg31 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: January 05, 2006 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  
I'm going to be installing an Omega REC-11 keyless entry into a 2005 Toyota Rav4. I've got some of it mapped out but need a wiring diagram. The car has the basic 6 speaker audio system (info needed when buying unit).
Also, thinking about buying a wiring diagram CD from 12 Volt Resource, which should help me out. Anyone ever use it and find it helpful?
thanks-
Measure twice, cut once...
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 06, 2006 at 6:23 AM / IP Logged  
12volts
 white (40A), BLACK/ red (30A)
 +
 ignition harness
  
Starter red  +  ignition harness   
Ignition black  +  ignition harness   
Power Lock blue/orange  -  driver kick, 14 pin plug, pin 6  
Power Unlock blue/yel to blue/org (2 pulse) -  driver kick, 14 pin plug, pin 13  
Lock Motor blue/orange  5wi driver kick, 13 pin plug, pin 2   
Unlock Motor blue/red  5wi driver kick, 13 pin plug, pin 7   
Parking Lights+ green or GREEN/ red  +  headlight switch   
Parking Lights- N/A       
Hazards white to yellow  -  sw or flasher relay next to fuse box  
Turn Signal(L) GREEN/ black  +  flasher relay next to fuse box   
Turn Signal(R) GREEN/ YELLOW  +  flasher relay next to fuse box   
Door Trigger red  -  harness going under driver seat  
Dome Supervision RED / white  -  ignition key cylinder illumination   
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A       
Power Sliding Door N/A       
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock       
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock       
Disarm No Unlock use key sense wire       
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: January 06, 2006 at 7:25 AM / IP Logged  
Easy, easy, EASY! I've done a lot of those...... don't even need to take the dash apart.
--Remove the driver's doorsill. Remove the driver's kick panel, first by undoing the plastic "nut" by your left foot, and then slide it toward the back of the and unclip it.
--In the kick panel, you will find two plugs with the wires encased in black tubing. Undo the plugs, pull the harnesses straight, cut open the tubing, and then plug them back in.
--TOP PLUG: WHITE/ red is constant power, at the very top of the plug. Black is switched power.
--BOTTOM PLUG: Blue/orange is lock. Blue / YELLOW is unlock; one pulse to turn on the domelight and unlock the driver's door only----a second pulse will unlock all doors.
Test these wires while turning the key in the driver's door, NOT by operating the switch on the door panel.
--GROUND: There's a factory ground in the kick panel. Crimp a ring terminal onto your ground wire, unbolt the factory ground, add yours, and bolt it back together. If you don't have a ring terminal, strip open the factory ground wire and splice into it.
--PARKING LIGHTS: Along the doorsill, almost all the way to the back of the car, you'll see a white plastic cover, with wires running under the driver's seat...remove that cover.
The parking light wire is GREEN/ red, and it comes out from the driver's seat, and then travels toward the rear of the car......it is tight, but if you pull it out a little, there is just enough slack to make your connection.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The black switched-power wire is going into the door, to feed the power windows. When you park and stop the car, the black wire RETAINS POWER until you open the door, so you can still close the windows before getting out.
--When performing your programming, do so with the driver's door open.
--If you have the unit set to unlock the doors automatically when you shut off the ignition, it will not work until you open your driver's door.
bgg31 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: January 07, 2006 at 9:37 AM / IP Logged  
Mike - thanks for the diagram.
Chris - sounds like you have done a few of these. Have you worked on Rav4's or with the Omega REC 11+? Or both?
I want to have the drivers priority unlock. The diagram that Crutchfield gave me has me wiring 3 relays so that one is wired into the drivers actuator and the other to the switch wire that will open all of them. Makes sense but will probably involve going into the door, which I want to avoid. Is your suggestion different?
Thanks for the tips-
Measure twice, cut once...
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 07, 2006 at 10:06 AM / IP Logged  
2 stage unlock doesn't get any easier than this. You don't need any relays to do it. The blue / YELLOW unlock wire is 2 pulse. The first negative pulse will unlock just the drivers door, and the second pulse does the other 3. You just hook both of your unlock wires off your keyless together and to the blue / YELLOW and it's done. I've done at least a hundred this way. The factory ground chris refers to is any WHITE/ black you find. I use it also instead of using a ring terminal....
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
bgg31 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 05, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: January 17, 2006 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  
Well, the deed is done. I followed the posts and got everything to work... without any relays!
Apparently the unit can be programmed to have the 3rd channel as a panic button. Anyone know which wire is for the horn under the dash leading away from the ignition switch? Can I go direct to the unit or do I need a relay?
thanks-
Measure twice, cut once...
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: January 17, 2006 at 9:49 PM / IP Logged  
The horn wire is GREEN/ red, you can get it from the steering column or that big harness over the fuses. Directly connect it, no relay is needed....
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

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