2005 Mazda Door Pins

I just did a manual trans install on a 2005 Mazda 3. For the door pins I had to use a total of 8 diodes and 4  10 k resistors and interfaced with wires at a brown plug under the glove box on the passanger side. Is there an easier way of doing this or is it really just that big of a bitch. Basiclly with the doors closed the pins show negative and when opened the wire shows open. So I had to cut each wire in half and install a diode, then branch off of that and install a second diode and then hook up 12 volts through each wire using a 10k resistor and use the positive door pin wire of the unit. Any tips on this sucker.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

I did one of those cars about a month ago. I did a similar setup to yours. Compustar had faxed me a diagram, is that where you got your setup from? I only used 4 diodes and 4 10k resistors. Worked fine. I tried testing for a door trigger wire at the instrument cluster since it showed a door ajar light whenever a door was opened, but nothing tested. Probably low voltage. Couldn't go to the domelight because of the delay domelight and it also turns on when the ignition shuts off.

that sounds like a right bitch to doWhy oh Why didn't i take the blue pill

Darren Power

the mazda3 sport uses that stupid ground at rest door wires and the sedan uses straight negative triggers. there were a couple of years of ford superduty that did it and the mazda tribute/ford escape also are wired this way. Raven, PM me, I heard something happened to KaneShaughn Murley

Install Manager, Dealer Services

Visions Electronics

Red Deer, Alberta

My goodness, that doesn't sound like much fun at all. But some systems can be re-programmed to deal with the domelight delay somehow or other, and most of the good units also ignore the door trigger at the end/beginning of the remote start cycle. Does anyone know if connecing the alarm to the domelight will cause falsing on this car?

Chris Luongo wrote: My goodness, that doesn't sound like much fun at all. But some systems can be re-programmed to deal with the domelight delay somehow or other, and most of the good units also ignore the door trigger at the end/beginning of the remote start cycle. Does anyone know if connecing the alarm to the domelight will cause falsing on this car?

Ignoring the domelight wire at certain times might be fine on an automatic, but it is not acceptable to me on a standard transmission (which is what I and the starter of this post worked on). If I was doing an alarm only or an automatic I may have just tagged a domelight wire. It wasn't really too time consuming to do. An extra 10 minutes of bench prep and I had the 4 diodes and 4 resistors in. I just had to then connect those 4 wires to the appropriate 4 wires in the car, which are all easily accessible below the glove box.

I agree, on an alarm I would just hook up to dome light because even if its on when I arm the alarm and the unit thinks the door is still open, when the light goes off the system will detect that and function normally. But on a RS on a manual I take no chances, its just not worth it.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer