99 Accord factory alarm won't arm?

      Hello guys, I have searched the posts and have not found an answer for my question so here it is. I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6, and the remote start system I have installed is made by Omega, model is the MARS-22 system and the problem I have is when you have all doors closed the factory alarm does not arm when I press the lock button on the remote. The system will arm if you press the unlock/lock switch inside the car or push down on the door knob at the top of the door and then close the door, and with the factory remote for the car you can have all doors closed and press the lock and the lights will flash, lock the doors and arm the system. I know for sure that the unlock wire, lock wire and disarm wires from the remote start unit are connected to the drivers side door harness, but the arm wire on the unit is not connected and I'm not sure where to connect it too. The wiring diagrams I have got says on the EX models when you unlock or lock the doors the factory alarm will arm with just that, and it will if you have the drivers door open when you press the lock on the remote, but not when all doors are closed then press the lock on the remote. I may have to find the factory alarm unit and connect the arm at that point but not sure where it is or which one to connect to, anything will help guys, thanks alot.   

Make you lock and unlock connection on the passenger side instead. That will remedy the issue you have at hand. Power Lock BLACK/ blue   -   passenger side fuse box     Power Unlock orange   -   passenger side fuse box HONDA, ACCORD, 1999, Power Unlock in a green 20 pin connector. Use BLACK/ white for lock and GREEN/ red for unlock on LX models without factory security. These wires are located in a two pin gray connector by the front of the drivers side fuse box. HONDA, ACCORD, 1999, Power Lock in a green 20 pin connector. Use BLACK/ white for lock and GREEN/ red for unlock on LX models without factory security. These wires are located in a two pin gray connector by the front of the drivers side fuse box. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

     Hello again, thanks for the reply. You stated that I need to reroute the wires from the drivers side to the passenger side fuse boxes? The wires right now are connected right underneath the window switch inside the drivers side front door, and not at the fuse box, the BLACK/ white is connected to lock and the GREEN/ red is to unlock, but the disarm wire for the remote unit is also connected to a solid blue wire in the same location and all three are negative pulse, do I need to disconnect this wire or leave it there, it's for the disarm with no unlock, I'm guessing for when you remote start the car and the doors don't unlock for this right? Also do I need to connect these BLACK/ blue and orange negative wires to the ones coming straight out of the fuse box on the passenger side or into the door and do you know how I can test this to see if they are the correct wires before splicing into them? These wires state they are negative for both unlock and lock, how would I know the difference in if the wire is negative or a positive wire that I'm splicing into? Also remember this is an Accord EX model, not the LX as I know they make a difference. Here is the diagram I found for my car, tell me if this is the same one you are looking at, it sounds like it to me. DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - HONDA / ACCORD / 1999 / Remote Start 12volts white   +   ignition harness Starter BLACK/ white   +   ignition harness Notes: If doing starter kill, must interrupt the wire between the keyswitch and the fusebox, not between the fusebox and the starter, to keep the check engine light from coming on. Second Starter N/A        Ignition BLACK / YELLOW   +   ignition harness Second Ignition N/A        Third Ignition N/A        Accessory yellow   +   ignition harness Second Accessory WHITE/ black   +   ignition harness Keysense           Power Lock BLACK/ blue   -   passenger side fuse box Notes: in a green 20 pin connector. Use BLACK/ white for lock and GREEN/ red for unlock on LX models without factory security. These wires are located in a two pin gray connector by the front of the drivers side fuse box. Power Unlock orange   -   passenger side fuse box Notes: in a green 20 pin connector. Use BLACK/ white for lock and GREEN/ red for unlock on LX models without factory security. These wires are located in a two pin gray connector by the front of the drivers side fuse box. Lock Motor WHITE/ red      driver side fuse box Unlock Motor        driver side fuse box Notes: yellow on the EX and lt. GREEN/ red on the LX Parking Lights+ RED / black      driver side fuse box Parking Lights- RED / yellow      steering column Notes: Only available on the EX model. Hazards           Turn Signal(L)           Turn Signal(R)           Reverse Light GREEN/ black   +   driver side fuse box Door Trigger BLACK/ white   -   passenger side fuse box Notes: In a green 4 pin connector. Dome Supervision use door trigger        Trunk/Hatch Pin orange   -   drivers kick panel Notes: Above the hood release in a gray 18 pin connector. On the DX & LX models, also found in a 2 pin connector behind the drivers fuse box. Hood Pin yellow/red or yellow   -   hood pin switch or Notes: On the EX models it is in a green plug next to the passenger side fuse box. On the LX models it is at the keyless/security unit, if equipped, which is attached to the driver side underdash panel. Trunk/Hatch Release WHITE/ red   +   drivers kick panel Power Sliding Door           Factory Alarm Arm           Notes: Arms and disarms with the door locks on the EX models. The LX models arm only with the factory transmitter. Factory Alarm Disarm           Notes: Arms and disarms with the door locks on the EX models. The LX models arm only with the factory transmitter. Disarm No Unlock blue   -      Notes: On the EX the wire is located at the drivers power window switch, on the LX the wire is at the keyless/security unit which is attached to the drivers underdash panel. Tachometer blue      tach test connector Notes: The tach test connector is located behind the battery on the 4 cylinder, and on a bracket attached to the drivers side strut tower on the 6 cylinder motor. The tach test connector is a white 2 pin connector, and may be covered by a black rubber boot. Wait to start           Brake Wire WHITE/ black   +   brake pedal switch Parking Brake           Horn Trigger lt. GREEN/ blue   -   steering column Memory Seat 1           Memory Seat 2           Memory Seat 3           Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: Yes Type: Transponder Part #: 556HW Alternate Part1 #: 556UW Alternate Part2 #: 555H Alternate Part3 #: 555U Notes:    The first paragraph does shows that the lock is BLACK/ blue negative and unlock is orange negative, both passenger side. I just want to make sure this is all right and also want to make sure the positives and negatives are right also, I don't know if the lock/unlock +/- is reversable on my unit or not, but I can find out and change it if needed, I really need to make sure this is right so I don't end up frying anything, much appreciated, thank you.

You will not FRIED anything if you have a good understand of things. Don't ASS-U-ME! Ask questions if you are unsure. POWER LOCK and UNLOCK is NEGATIVE for your vehicle! Again look for the wire on the passenger side fuse box. How to test for them, well you will need to do the reading. I don't think I will be able to explain well enough for you to understand unless you can explain to me that you have gasp the concept. If you have done your reading and be able to explain the approach of how to test for your doorlocks wires. Myself and someone others on here will be able to tell you if you are moving in the right direction.    As for myself, I use a TESTLIGHT. Afterwards, I used a powerprobe and send power to the wire to verified my finding.       Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

   Ok thepencil, I have located the wires on the passenger side fuse box wanted to ask, do I need to run my lock and unlock wires from the remote start unit to these connections at the fuse box and test the unit to see if they work? I did see the 20 pin wire harness from where they are, and if I'm correct it is the only 20 pin on there, and I also noticed the BLACK/ blue wire is about 2 times the size of the orange wire I found, is this correct? I got my voltmeter and tested them and found the BLACK/ blue has no voltage sitting and the orange is running about 11.5v. I believe my doorlocks are positive because I tested them at the lock switch and two of the wires show positive and the center showed negative. I do understand that in a 12 volt negative ground system you must have a positive and negative for the circuit to work, if not the circuit will be an open circuit, other than that I'm not really sure what else to tell you, please let me know your opinion on this, thanks alot.

They are NEGATIVE. You may not be understanding how the testing works, so it's really throwing you off. You will have +12V reading. Flip the lock-unlock, the meter will have a reading of 0V . It will be too quick for you to see, which is why it's nice to have a test light so that you will be able to see the blinking on the testlight when you flip the lock and unlock switch on the door. Again, they are NEGATIVE. Depending on which wires you appply grounds to the door will either lock or unlock. "I have located the wires on the passenger side fuse box wanted to ask, do I need to run my lock and unlock wires from the remote start unit to these connections at the fuse box and test the unit to see if they work?" "do I need to run my lock and unlock wires from the remote start unit to these connections at the fuse box" Yes. "I did see the 20 pin wire harness from where they are, and if I'm correct it is the only 20 pin on there, and I also noticed the BLACK/ blue wire is about 2 times the size of the orange wire I found, is this correct? " I don't remember the wire size, but they are THERE. If you understand how to test for them or have the tools and equipment to test for them I don't see when it shouldn't work.    Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

    Hi again, I wanted to let you know that I have found the two wires in the passenger fuse box and you were correct. I now know what you were talking about the locks being negative instead of positive, I took my test light and grounded the wires independently from each other and the orange did lock the doors and the BLACK/ blue locked them, also when I used this wire to lock the doors with all doors closed, my factory alarm did arm like it's suppose too. Now all I have to do now is rerun the wires from the drivers side to the passenger side and splice them in and it should work just fine. I did find out that the way it's wired is for an lx model without a security system, and the "pro" installed it this way and I'm not sure why, it seems he would have known and checked to make sure this is an EX model with the system, but who knows. I did have one more question for you, on the wiring diagram I have it says this... Disarm No Unlock blue   -      Notes: On the EX the wire is located at the drivers power window switch, on the LX the wire is at the keyless/security unit which is attached to the drivers underdash panel. This wire is hooked up on mine in the location described above for an EX, and my question is does this wire need to be hooked up and what will it do if it's not. I also wanted to know exactly what this wire is for and what it does, the blue - connected to the window switch. On my system the blue - is connected to the OEM Disarm - output on my remote start unit. I was just curious about this and would greatly appreciate anything that can help, you also have been a great deal of help to me already, and I wanted to thank you for that.

You are welcome. Nothing easiler when someone can articulate their thoughts in a post instead of just asking questions and expect an answer being feed to them. Your post will be very helpful for someone else who may have a similar problem like yourself. "This wire is hooked up on mine in the location described above for an EX, and my question is does this wire need to be hooked up and what will it do if it's not." Nothing! You do not need to hook it up. It is just another way of disarming the factory alarm and nothing more. Just like getting the doorlock on the driver side verse the passerger side. Both works, but certainly the better solution seem to suit you the most on the other side. Again, it all depend on what you are trying to accomplish. Bottom line is that no matter how you are wiring things up. End result is all that matter and counts the most. Right?Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Hi pencil, I know exactly what your saying about articulating thought and so forth, you hardly see that on these forum sites and it does make a differece on your responses and who does the responding. I thought this may be how the blue wire works on my car and the reason I say this is when I was first messing with this wiring I did disconnect this wire and remote started to see what happens, and like you said nothing but I definatly wanted to make sure on this before I did anything permanet. I still have'nt got the wires spliced and hooked up yet because of work and the amount of time after before the sun goes down but it will be done and I'll reply to this post and let you know exactly whats going on and how it works out. Again I wanted to thank you so much for all the help, I figured there would be atleast a couple of people that would respond to my post but you are the only one, but you are the only one I need for my questions ;) Like I said, I will get this done asap and let you know how it goes, thanks for everything!

Hey pencil, I got the wires all hooked up earlier today and tested it, and ran into a problem. I did what I told you, ran both the lock and unlock wires to the passenger side, spliced them in and it does work just fine, it now arms the system when I use the lock button on the remote but have a slight problem. I seems that I do need the disarm wire hooked up because when I lock the doors and the system arms, then use the remote start the factory alarm starts going crazy, you know like it's suppose to do. My question is can I find this blue - wire that is in the drivers side door under the window switch inside the car somewhere, mabe by or in the fuse box like the others? I would like to wire it inside the car if possible instead of trying to run this wire inside the wire loom that goes from the body to the door, it would make things much easier, any ideas?, thanks again.