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Remote Unlocking Not working


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power_speed 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: May 30, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 30, 2006 at 6:21 PM / IP Logged  
I have an 86 f150. It came with factory power locks and windows.
I have just installed an alarm system with remote unlocking. The manual that came with the alarm said that my locking system was called reverse polarity. I have also seen it called five wire rest at ground. It means two spdt relays control the locks and still allow the oringal switches to control the locks as well.
The problem I am having is the system works well to lock the doors when the system is armed. However, when I disarm the system the doors do not unlock. I checked the voltage at the new relay for unlocking. Then I checked for continuaty though the relay and hit the disarm button. The relay works fine and sends signal out to the lock. However it still does not arm. The strange thing is I can still lock and unlock the door with the orignal factory switch.
Is it possible I need to hook it up as a four wire system instead. The switch harness has two wires that go to ground at rest. One wire that is always hot. and two that go out to the motors.
Does anybody know why this system will not want to unlock the doors?
swamprat323 
Gold - Posts: 1,335
Gold spacespace
Joined: September 22, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 30, 2006 at 7:26 PM / IP Logged  
are you sure you got the right wire, un hook the the unlock wires form the relay and see if you can unlock them form the switch. if they work you do not have the right wire, aslo check the relay to make sure that works right, also make sure you have "output" form the alarm
power_speed 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: May 30, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 30, 2006 at 9:49 PM / IP Logged  
Yep I am sure I got the wires correct. I checked them to the schematic in manual that came with the alarm. Also I compared them to the original factory schematics I have on the truck. I made sure that the wires coming from the switch are all connected are connected to 87a and the wires going to the motors are 30.
Something I forgot to mention before hand. I put a 20 amp fuse on the circuit for the positive incoming line. When I hit the button on the remote it blew the fuse. However, for testing purposes I bypassed the fuse and the locking portion works fine. Just like before.
I checked the relay and made sure that it is working.
I hooked up my multitmeter to the incoming negative from the alarm and the other to the positive power. when I hit the button it showed good signal. Then I tested the contacts and made sure that pin 30 saw 12 volts when I hit the button. It did.
The only other thing I can think is could the alarm system be outputing a signal to both relays at the same time?
Could I need a diode in the system to make it happy?
Any more Ideas?
swamprat323 
Gold - Posts: 1,335
Gold spacespace
Joined: September 22, 2002
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: May 30, 2006 at 10:10 PM / IP Logged  
when yuo tested pin 30 showed 12 volts, test to see if 87a has gound.
aslo double check you connections.
wire guides can be wrong. double check you have the rigth wire.
you got output form alarm, the relay is good. has to be
1. wrong wire
2. bad conection
power_speed 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: May 30, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 31, 2006 at 8:43 AM / IP Logged  
I figured it out.
I hooked up everything right and had good connections, just on the wrong switch. Ford decided that the passenger side should be where the split occurs and the two motors come apart. I hooked up on the drivers side. So when the relay fired it was shorting out to the ground that was already present at the other switch. That is why it blew the fuse.
The locking side still works because the passenger side switch has a burned out contact in it.
That was a fun little mystery to solve.
Thanks for your help!

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