retained accessory power and other issues

Hello,

I have successfully installed a scosche RSA2900FA-FM (supposed to be the same as the compustar 2W900FM-AS) in a 2002 dodge intrepid SE.

I replaced the crimestopper CS-2016FM piece of **** that i had priviuosly installed. That alarm only worked fine for a couple of months. Anyways, I had some technical qs:

-The ins manual states that I should not ground the unit to a factory bolt, yet some other manufacturers (dei, etc.) recommend grounding

to a factory bolt, even the siren to the same point too. So where do I ground? I found the two main factory ground rods for the whole car.

-Is there any difference for connecting the basic starter kill to ign1 or ign2 (pin 86)?

-Is there any way to get rid of retained accessory power? My dome light relay works fine once the RAP is gone (after the car turns the dome off).

If I open the door, and then close it, the light stays on and doesn’t listen to the relay, but once if off, relay turns on and off the dome light (with unlock/lock respectively)?

-Does anyone know if I can connect two sirens to this alarm/rs without a relay, I know some others support up three sirens?

-Finally, what am I missing if I don’t connect the second accessory (BLACK/ white) from my car. I already have eight relays

(trunk, lock, unlock, dome light, parking\headlights, door pins isolation, and the ones that came with the alarm -starter and second ignition). I really don’t want to have another relay if there is nothing important in the 2nd accessory?

Thank You for your hlp.

grounding should take place in a near by place. I also reccomend at the same place as factory bolt because it doesnt have paint and thats why factory uses it. Just stick to the first ignition. (really dont know if there is a difference) Its okay to connect 2 siren together (it doesnt draw that much AMP to make a big difference) Dont forget to wire it in series You really dont need second Acc ( i think in your car its the radio?) And i dont know what you mean by retained accessory power and this domelight thingy. Sorry dude Wow man, thats alot of relay. This car is a monster demanding so much relay.

nouseforaname wrote: dodge doesn't really use a "rap" system. this is mainly just on gm. what you are refering to is just the delayed domelight..

Actually they do use a retained accesory power system which is separate from the domelight delay. the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Yep captainzab, I know about those relays. It has to do with the design of the alarm in general and the way you decide to wire your system.

Some manufacturers have more “embedded relays” or are designed to handle more current in some leads than others do and therefore do not need extra relays. I don’t remember that well but my previous alarm required less relays.

-Trunk=required.

-Unlock/lock= two relays required (single multiplex wire).-Dome light=required.-Parking/Headlights= in this alarm is not required if you only need to have the parking lights (up to 10 amps).  I wanted headlights and parking lights so it was required in my case.-Door pins=required for this alarm (was not required for the previous alarm). Besides being diode isolated, you need to have it relay isolated,  although I believe it can be isolated with multiple diodes per wire. Relay was easier.-Starter=required.-Second ignition=required.-and probably many more if I want 2nd accessory, aux1, aux2, etc, etc.

So, what can I do about the dome delay thingy?

Thanks.