j spec toyota mirror ecu wiring problem

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lexelite

Copper - Posts: 82

Joined: October 16, 2005

Posted: March 19, 2007 at 11:34 AM / IP Logged

Obtained a copy of the translated Mirror ECU diagrams and cannot decipher it enough to make it work. Have both mirrors, the OEM fold button (momentary), and the mirror ECU.

Hooked it up and received nothing at all with ignition on. Tested the fold button and received no voltage. Bypassed fold button and allied 12+ directly to ECU via H-10 (Br) and still received nothing.

Who is skilled enough to point out the essential wires and polarity of the ECU?

NOTE: Not all wires are needed as the mirror position (up/down) is controlled by the US mirror ECU. Only need wires involved in the folding process.

j spec toyota mirror ecu wiring problem -- posted image.

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: March 19, 2007 at 3:42 PM / IP Logged

If you ground WHITE/ black and put 12vdc on both WHITE/ red and brown at the same time it looks like you should hear some clicking.

All the other wires are simply outputs.

Kevin Pierson

lexelite

Copper - Posts: 82

Joined: October 16, 2005

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 11:41 AM / IP Logged

KPierson wrote:

If you ground WHITE/ black and put 12vdc on both WHITE/ red and brown at the same time it looks like you should hear some clicking.

All the other wires are simply outputs.

Thanks for the confirmation on my thoughts.

After more research, the dead link in the chain seems to be the 12V+ constant lead to the fold in switch, not the output.

The US Mirror ECU uses pin R17- 12 as part of the mirror tilting sensor.

I cannot figure out how to apply the 12+ without interfering with the US mirror ECU.....

Maybe if there is a 12 lead that will go live ONLY when the car is off, this would work.

Any suggestions?

NOTE: Car 200 Lexus SC400 w/ Driving Position Memory. Diagram Attached.

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 2:00 PM / IP Logged

You've lost me here. Why does it have to tie in to the operation switch?

It looks like the operation switch moves the mirror lens up, down, left, or right. How does that tie in to the folding mirrors? It seems like the fold part would be 100% seperate.

Kevin Pierson

lexelite

Copper - Posts: 82

Joined: October 16, 2005

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 3:09 PM / IP Logged

B/c as you can see from the diagrams, there is only 1 adjustment switch for the tilting of both mirrors and fold operation. By design, the J-Spec version incorporates the fold button (momentary) into the tilt joystick circuit. The US version does not. Two parts, 1 circuit, 1 connector.

As such, the US version uses pin 12 as part of the tilt joystick function. However, the J-Spec version uses that same exact pin as the 12V+ trigger for the fold button.

This is the dilemma.

How to add 12V+ constant to PIN 12 w/o shorting the tilt ECU? Or using a 12V+ constant lead that is active only on with car off?

Any more suggestions?

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 3:30 PM / IP Logged

Why don't you just add a momentary switch?

You won't find a '12volt when car is off' lead in the car, you would have to make one using a relay.

Kevin Pierson

lexelite

Copper - Posts: 82

Joined: October 16, 2005

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 3:41 PM / IP Logged

KPierson wrote:

Why don't you just add a momentary switch?

You won't find a '12volt when car is off' lead in the car, you would have to make one using a relay.

I know this has been accomplished before by other installers using the same parts in the same car.

I have seen it in person for that matter.

Just trying to see how it was done, before I hack into the panel of a luxury car.

No one else knows?

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 4:47 PM / IP Logged

It sounds like your best bet would be to find someone who has done this and get advice from them.

The diagrams you've provided don't really make sense to me, I would have to see it all in person to figure it out. I really don't understand why you want to interface the new ECU to the circuit in the old ECU.

If you take a relay and hook the coil up to ignition power and ground (pin 85 and 86), wire pin 30 to constant voltage, you can then use pin 87A as 'hot when ignition is off'. The relay coil won't pull any current unless the car is running, so draining the battery won't be a concern.

Kevin Pierson

lexelite

Copper - Posts: 82

Joined: October 16, 2005

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 5:04 PM / IP Logged

Kevin, I think thats it!

I know it is complicated, but I have no choice but to use the 2 ECUs together as they use the same connector and circuit..

The relay you mentioned seems to be the answer to my problem. Is this setup right?

Pin 85 = IGN or ACC [12V+]

Pin 86 = Ground

Pin 30 = BATT [12V+ Constant]

Pin 87A= Power output to Fold-In switch

Pin 87 = Not Available

KPierson

Platinum - Posts: 3,527

Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: March 21, 2007 at 5:11 PM / IP Logged

Yeah, that will provide 12vdc on pin 87a only when the ignition is off.

Kevin Pierson

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