valet 712t in a '98 camry

Hi, I am attempting to install a Valet 712t in a 1998 Toyota Camry. I am running into a couple of issues though. 1) First of all, lock and unlock functions will not work. I believe I have the lock/unlock wires wired incorrectly. As a precursor, can somebody please explain the difference between #30, #78, and #78A. Currently, I have the #30 unlock connected to the unlock wire of the vehicle, and the #30 lock connected to the lock wire of the vehicle. I realize this is probably my downfall, but I am unsure of how to connect the lock and unlock wires to make it function properly. In terms of power, the unit is all powered up with no problem. Horn functions correctly. Just the lock/unlock being the major issue. 2) Parking lights. In the wiring table I have for my vehicle, there are two parking light connection points. One is positive, one is negative. I am unsure of which to use. Please advise. Other than the unit not locking or unlocking, there aren't really any other major problems :P Thanks!

why are you using relays just connect the wires straight to the wires that you have to or does that alarm not come with double pulse .. also with the parking lights it is up to you on if you want to use pos or negative.. if your alarm throughs a negative for the lights use the neg. and if your alarm throughs a pos then use the pos.. its all up to you i always use what the alarm throughs to avoid relays..Confidence is the key to any project!!

I'm not using any relays to interface this unit with my car. There are what appears to be two sets of wires coming from the Valet 712t, a set of #30 lock/unlock wires and a set of #87 lock/unlock wires. My question goes back to not knowing which wires to hook up. Currently, I have the #30 lock wire hooked up to the factory lock wire, and the #30 unlock wire to the factory unlock wire. As it is currently wired, the #87 wires and #87A wires are just hanging freely, not connected to anything. I'd assume that's my downfall, I just need to know how to connect those.

all you need is the blue/black for unlock and the GREEN/ black for lock. hook purple to ground and your done, double pulse the unlock as well. the light output on the 712t shoulb be selectable, its positive trigger from the factory, use whatever is easier for you.

1) Theres a lot to type for this and I see that its been covered in previous posts. Your door triggers send (-) when triggered. You're going to have to cut the lock/unlock wires in your car. The side of the wire that leads to the motor will connect to the #30 common outputs. Like this: Light green (lock wire in your car leading to motor) > H1/5 GREEN/ black (lock #30 common output) Dark green (unlock wire in your car leading to motor) > H1/8 blue/black (unlock #30 common output) Then you take the other side of the cut lock/unlock wire (that leads to the switch in your car) Light green (lock wire in your car leading to switch) > H1/6 WHITE/ black (lock #87 normally closed) Dark green (unlock wire in your car leading to switch) > H1/17 BROWN / black (unlock #87a normally closed) When you press the arm/lock button on your remote it connects the wires you cut. It follows this relay diagram https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w but doesn't use all the other pins of the relay because yours is built into the control module. Use a DMM ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter) on the parking light wire to see if its + or -. Do this by placing the negative probe on a known ground source and the positive probe on the exposed parking light wire while the parking lights are on. If the DMM reads ~12v, you found a positive parking light wire. If the DMM doesn't show voltage, place the positive probe on the 12v constant wire and the negative probe on the parking light wire. One or the other should read voltage, if not you have the wrong wire. Switch the jumper on the control module if you're connecting to a - parking light wire. I'm still learning all this stuff so if someone else chimes in, put my advice at the bottom of your trial/error to do list. Good luck

The 712t has built in relays, the #30s of the harness go to the door locks(dark blue/white*lock,dark blue*unlock).The lock wires are about 18 gauge.  They will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself.  The 87's which have inputs that receive whatever polarity your giving them to work with the locks.  In this case it would be ground because your door locks are triggered through (-).  As for the BROWN / white and WHITE/ black the manual doesnt specifiy to what it is used for so that one I would be stumped too.

The above post by lagvoid is totally wrong about the doorlocks. Just do the following. Connect the doorlock wires labeled as 87 to ground. I don't remember the colors, but they are the wires with the fuseholder. Connect the #30 unlock wire to: Power Unlock      dk. blue       -      org plug bottom of fusebox and Connect the #30 lock wire to: Power Lock      dk. blue/white       -      org plug bottom of fusebox Notes: The lock wires are about 18 gauge. They will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself. I usually prefer to use the (-) parking light wire. You will have to switch the jumper in the brain to (-). The wire in the car you will want to connect to is green in the ignition harness. It will meter as 12v with the lights off, and 0v when the lights are on.

there are relays built into the 712t but you dont need the WHITE/ black or BROWN / black because the locks on the camry are simple negative trigger not 5wire. just do as i stated above and you will be ok.

JWorm is right. He's also right that generally, using the negative-trigger parking lights can be a little safer/more reliable/less wear-and-tear on the alarm brain........ but I would also add that the green, positive parking light wire can be found SUPER close to where your lock wires are. It's a white plug on the fuse box, just above that dark-orange one with the doorlocks.