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crime guard 850i4 on 2006 tacoma


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cfit 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 13, 2007 at 12:52 AM / IP Logged  

I've read tons of posts on the forum and found a great deal of info regarding the installation of Remote start and alarms.

There is some info on Toyota Tacomas 2006 as far as them having 2 starter and 2 ignition wires.

The Crime Guard 850i4 instructions shows RS for one wire, in the manual they suggest using a Duel Remote Start Satellite Relay that plugs into the main brain via a small 4 pin plug.

1. Does anyone know where I can find this "part# RS-RP, I've searched the web and Ebay and can't seem to located a CG dealer that shows on on the web.

2. Is there another way to do this without the above duel relay, using the existing relay and another relay. ie. instead of using the above part just use 2 relays?
The problem I have is that there is (1) starter output wire GREEN that comes from the brain, since I need to supply this current to (2) separate starter wires
how do I do this for the second relay?
I assume I would leave the existing relay as per the manual with one relay alone wired the way it shows in the manual.
What wire or do I use on the 850i4 that sends a signal to the second relay? 

In other words I assume the 850i4 brain will send a postive or negative when you activate RS to the second relay which would send current from a battery line via the relay to the starter

at the same time the brain sends current via it's GREEN starter output wire.
One other thing, the manual lists a Blue/White Neutral Safety NEGATIVE wire that should be attached to the auto transmission that sends a signal when the transmission is in Neutral or Park.
Does the 2006 V6 Toyota Tacoma have such a wire and where is it, what color?
Any other suggestions or things to look out for with a 2006 Tacoma or Crime Guard 850i4 are appreciated.

Thank you

KarTuneMan 
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Posted: May 14, 2007 at 10:20 AM / IP Logged  
On the clutch, find a blk/wht wire. This wire needs to see a (POS)+ start signal. Use an additional starter output (probly a negative output) and a relay to send 12v.  Don't forget about the other 2 starter wires at the ign. harness....... I looked for an install manual on line for your Crime Guard, but had no luck.
cfit 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 14, 2007 at 1:05 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry for not giving more details but the truck is a 2006 Toyota Tacoma Automatic Transmission V6.
Other interesting thing is since this truck has 2 ignition, 2 battery and 2 starter wires people have two ways of handling the install. Some state you need to use 2 relays (which I agree) and others say you can jumper the two wires. Im not totally sure what they mean by "Jumper" perhaps to just join the two wires. This does not makes sense to me as if this was OK, why did Toyota have them seperate?
Thanks
peterubers 
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Posted: May 14, 2007 at 1:08 PM / IP Logged  

cfit--

i explained some of this to you on Ebay (adecomsales) when you asked me all about this over the course of several messages regarding my Omega Pass-4.  Sounds like you've never done ignition work like this before.  If this is in fact the case, be VERY carefully so you don't fry key electronics in your new truck OR (less bad) your crimeguard.

Cheers --

The search function is your friend.
peterubers 
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Posted: May 14, 2007 at 1:38 PM / IP Logged  

separate wires are used for igntion/starer/accessory for several reasons:

1) In some Nissans, timing of when a starter wire receives 12 volt power is crucial during cold starts of the engine; one starter wire gets engergized a split second sooner than the second starter wire.  Each stater wire engerizes different components of the mechanism required to start the engine.  In nissans, one starter wire energizes a check-system that analyzes the state of the engine (temperature, oil pressure, etc) a split second before the second starter wire receives power that is sent to the actual engine starter/solenoid. 

2) In all vehicles, systems' circuits are separated so that if one power circuit is fried, two systems are not fried in tandem.  Separate circuits allow, also, better ability to diagnose a system failure/issue

3) Your neutral wire question -- this is used by the Crime guard as a safety against starting the car when it is in gear -- Drive, 2, or L (1st/low gear).  Clearly, if you were to try and start your truck when it was in drive, it wouldn't allow the engine to turn over -- so your crime guard would make three attempts to start the trunk, analyzing the tach signal each time and seeing that it never turns over during the pre-programmed start cycle time, and will then drop an error code in the memory of the crime guard.  The neutral safety wire prevents the three attempts from even happening if it sees the car is in gear.

4) you do NOT need TWO additional relays (one for each starter wire).  The one green output wire from the CG is in fact a relayed output 30A from the crimeguard.  you just need one additional relay (as I expalined to you in thorough detail with pin numbers and everything) on Ebay.  For the second ignition output, do the exact same thing with another SPDT relay that you'll need to use the CG ignition output to relay power to the second ignition wire.

5) Are you familiar with the use of a VM?

6) Read and re-read on this website how a relay works -- you need a good understanding of relays before you USE one.  I would recommend against just posting on this site how to wire a relay and then going out and doing it after printing out the post ... you need to understand how a relay works -- how the small solenoid inside an SPDT relay flips the circuit from connecting the 30 pin from the 87a to the 87 pin.  Know that the 85 and 86 pins need to see a 12 volt or a ground/neg. charge and that these pins sometimes needs to be diode isolated.

7) Jumper = literally twisting two wires together WITHOUT using a relay in between.  This defeats the ability to isolate circuits and is always frowned upon.  believe it or not, you CAN just jumper the two starter wires together and two ignition wires together and get it to work, but i woudln't if i was my truck and if anything were ever to go wrong with your tacoma, enjoy telling your toyota dealer your theory about saving $10 in relays costs and therefore jumping two pairs of wires!

The search function is your friend.
cfit 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 14, 2007 at 2:37 PM / IP Logged  
Peter,
YES, thanks for your input, I think I originally posted this prior to your input. I just wanted to gather as much info BEFORE I do the work. I've already installed my stereo without a problem. I have some experience with alarms, it's just the Remote Starter im new to. As far as the jumping of wires, I had read about this here on the forum. I was hoping that clarification for all readers would help others. Sorry but I did not mean to have you repeat anything.
Thanks for you explanation of why vehicles use more then one ign, starter and battery circut. I also understand the purpose of the neutral wire, I was hoping someone with a Tacoma knew if the Auto Trans had such a wire which sent a signal as to selector position. In any event it's clear it serves a purpose about safety.
Allow me to explain the reason I assumed I needed (2) relays. You are correct, the CG850 install manual uses a relay for starter interupt, that was my relay 1, the second relay I talked about was for the second starter. Thus the mention of 2 relays, sorry for the confusion, you are correct the first relay is not used for the first starter circut, it comes direct from the CG850.
Are you refering to a VM "Volt Meter" I have a DMM "Digital Multi meter? I understand I need to take care with the air bags etc. Another reason Im asking so many questions is that there seems to be more then one wiring diagram for the same truck on this site.
YES, I understand relays and have used them before, the concept of a coil that activates a circut. I've used them to install other higher amp items.
As I stated above "I would not jumper the wires". After spending a few days reading almost all the posts on this forum I noticed that several people talked about the jumper method. It was also clear that many posters suggested this was a bad idea and had seen failure problems doing this. My logic without reading was this was a bad idea since the vehicle was already designed with separate circuts from the start for a reason. Joining them makes no sense.
Again THANK YOU PETER for you time and effort.
peterubers 
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Posted: May 14, 2007 at 3:26 PM / IP Logged  

It's no problem at all -- i just hope that information and clarity in the information you obtain from this site helps you to succeed in your install.  If I capitalize letters or words, it's only out of habit, not suggestive or any irritation on my part.  I learned TONS of info (there i go again) from this site and continue to learn just by passively reading posts from time to time.

VM = voltmeter = DMM = dig. multi meter, yup.

Your first remote starter install will take the novice about 6 to 8 hours -- so plan on the car being out of commision for that time period (you may do it in much less time).

Some other tips: solder all your connections, avoid t-taps if you can.  DMM or VM all your wires a couple times before tieing in a wire and soldering.  Make sure you tach learn the r/s brain prior to first remote start.  Your tacoma is a relatively straight forward install, so you should be fine.

Just keep in mind the keysense wire needs to see ground(-) to avoid that chime during the remote start period and map out on paper your relays prior to connecting them all. 

If you don't end up finding that neutral safety wire, use it as a service toggle as we discussed on Ebay.  Most r/s brains I install for auto trannies do NOT have that neutral safety wire.

Here is a link to your service manual (it's a 2005 which is identical to the 2006), it's a good idea to always have one of these with your vehicle (if you routinely work on it) especially during the install of a remote starter in case you blow a fuse -- :

http://haroldmiller.net/FSM/

I'll look at it for your neutral safety wire.

The search function is your friend.
peterubers 
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Posted: May 14, 2007 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, after reading the EWD, page 7/60 there is a BLACK / YELLOW wire off the ECM that is the Park/neutral switch wire for an automatic tranny -- if this is the wire you're looking for, VMM and determine the polarity/voltage during park/neutral and drive -

APPLY YOUR PARKING BRAKE prior to testing!

The search function is your friend.
cfit 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 13, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2007 at 3:26 AM / IP Logged  
I've got the alarm installed and working so far but have not yet completed the starter disable and the Remote start portion of the alarm.
I prefer to do this in stages.
I still wanted some clarification to the remote start wires.
There are 2 sets of wires for Ignition, Battery and Starter.
Battery 1 WHITE/ Blue
Battery 2 WHITE/ Red
Ignition 1 BLACK/ Red
Ignition 2 Blue / YELLOW
Starter 1 Green /Black
Starter 2 BLACK/ White
I've located all the above wires at the front of the fuse box, the also tie into the ignition switch.
The Crime Guard instruction show that the GREEN wire that comes out of the brain goes to the STARTER wire. I assume I will hook this to Starter 1.
I will use a relay to power STARTER 2, however I assume im going to run power (via a relay) to the starter using the other BATTERY wire?
1. I understand the Starter but the difference between the IGNITION and BATTERY wires is a bit confusing. A BATTERY 1 to STARTER 1 connection via a relay should work. Can I assume that te only purpose of the IGNITION wires is to stop current coming from the keyed ignition to the starter?
2. When using a relay to install the ignition interupt I assume I can cut only one IGNITION wire BLACK/ Red and place the relay there? As stated above I need to use both starter wires 1 and 2 for RS, but do I need to interupt both IGNITIONS to stop the car from being started?
On one hand I'm not sure if it's worth installing the ignition interupt since the truck already has the immobilizer that requires a key with chip.
3. Also the alarm goes into Valet mode without a problem, arms, disarms and activates when doors or hood is opened. What I can't do is get the alarm to go into program mode. I turn the ignition ON, then OFF (within 5 seconds)and then hit the valet button 5 times. No chirp, change in LED status, nothing. Can this be that the remaining RS wires still need to be connected? It's a Crime Guard 850i4.
Thank you

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