remote rear window roll down fail

I have a 94 bronco with an electric rear window. I also have a Bulldog security RS202 remote start/keyless entry installed. The remote start has a "trunk release" button on the fob. I read in the manual that as long as this button is pressed--the output will be energized. Therefore, it gave me the idea that I could use the trunk release to roll down my bronco's rear window with the fob. I bought a bosch style relay and wired it up today. It fried my remote start module. I have another one on order, and want to figure out what i did wrong before i attempt it again. Please lend me your expertise. I've included a schematic of how i wired it. thanks

That should not have damaged your remote start unit.  Does 30 connect to the end of the wire that goes to the window motor, or does it go to the switch?

when i pressed the trunk button (which is supposed to be the button to roll down the window) the truck started up and starter would not disengage. i couldn't get it to shut off any other way than by disconnecting the remote start module. then, after i got my swear words out i plugged the remote start module back in and it did the same thing. the rear window works fine using the dash switch (if the relay is installed). I think my error might have been tapping my constant into the constant that goes into the remote start. I failed to consider the current that would be drawn by the motor through the small conductor that feeds the remote start unit. i wonder if when i pressed the trunk button the motor started to draw the 20 amps or so through that conductor and couldn't get enough current, then began to draw THROUGH the internals of the remote start unit itself--causing it to go tits up. I have another module on its way, right now. next time i'll do a little more metering and verifying.

87a is switch side and 30 motor side. Should have nothing to do with the remote start, except you need a diode 1N4004 on the aux wire to 85, band towards R/S, that's what might have damaged the R/S.

that makes sense about the diode. do you think there's any chance that the high amperage of the motor (20A) being drawn through the same wire that was feeding the constant of the RS, could've "sucked" high current through RS? either way, i'm gonna install the diode and use a different 12v feed to the relay/motor.

More likely the spike flowing back along the aux wire when the relay shut down.