impulse sequencing relay latching

Also called "Momentary to flip/flop" on here.

OK, I have been using the 12volt for years, and thank all of you gurus...   Then I came here looking for a way to make a momentary switch latch using automotive relays and found your diagrams...   HOLY COMPLICATED BATMAN!!!   3 and 4 relays to latch?!?!?

I came across a guy's posts like 7 years ago named Mark, who talked about a VW headlight dimmer relay, and looked more into it.  I think that it should be included in your diagrams as it's FAR easier than your multiple relay solutions...

It's VW part number 111 941 583

[IMG]https://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff73/temperacerguy/relay_zpsf9a548f0.png[/IMG]

From what I have read:

30 is 12V constant

S is a momentary ground for switching between 56a and 56b

56 is your input power wire

56b is your NC

56a is NO.   

I currently have one on the way, and I will let you know If everything works as advertized.   I have also heard that you should get the ones from VW that are made in Germany, as the NAPA/E-bay ones made in brazil suck.

depending upon what your intended use of the relay is, there are different versions of the relay..notated by a suffix letter i believe. one version does not have a term 30. it uses the term 56 for power on the common contact as well as one side of the coil. the five terminal version, given battery power to term 30 and a (-)signal on the term s, will output power on the term 56a (high beam). this was used as a flash-to-pass function. depending upon your source of said relay, it may not hurt to use the relay to trigger others simple spdt relays. potter brumfield also has an impulse latching relay (search S89 or S90) although it is of an open design which may require an enclosure.     there also is a saab headlight relay, which has a latching function also but it is done electronically. have read that the saab relays can fail due to solder connections, but the cases do open easily for inspection. may want to use the saab relay to operate external relay. some more info for you all out there. mark

May I ask what you're trying to do? Wouldn't a simple cheaper latching relay work as well?

The SAAB relay I have uses a 4017 1-of-10 counter as a divide by 2.

Orange or black case old?

Orange.

The black ones i've seen seem to have the terminals sealed to the base better than the orange cased units.

That reminds me of how relays ain't always relays - viz an Audi relay I picked up which is nothing but 2 VLSI chips and micro-circuitry (it sells for way over $100). But at least that was mounted in the cabin. As to hybrids like the orange SAAB headlight and VAG fuelpump relays, when should the circuitry be split from the relay itself? IE - the SAAB 4017-based high/low headlight relay could be internal, but that defeats the main reason for relays (shortest cable route & no heavy cabling in the cabin). Non-VAG fuel pumps are usually controlled by ECUs with remote relays - IMO a much better idea. I see the point of modularisation, but to have control electronics connected with enginebay spade connectors...? Hence in part my liking for DIY or added circuits for such relays - mount the circuitry in the cabin and connect to suitably positioned common $3 relays. The Japs et al do it that way too.

First, though I agree with what you just said 100% Peter, you're missing the point. Centralised electrics with feed back, i.e. self diagnostic systems, are sexy! Only the manufacturers know how to service them etc. Expensive diagnostic tools. Have fun with a Mercedes, CAN + LAN + body engine data control via the at least 2 SAM modules, fuseboxes everywhere. I can't get my head around it anymore. But we are hijacking this thread and I'm still waiting on what the OP needs to do.