cluster problem

Have you checked all the fuses in the dash one by one? Have you inspected the speedo cable? The gas indicator is directly linked to the fuel sender unit, which will maintain the level at all times. The coolent guage is linked to the thermo couple sensor in the engine block. What has happened to the vehicle as of late? Front end collision? Regards EVIL Teken . . .

i checked all fuses and they are ok,and only have a collision on the rear end not the front , and  i need to check the speedo cable and thermo sensor, but everthing didn't work at the same time and what about the gas gauge,won't work too.               thank's again for your helpole

OK, lets get down to the basics. There are actually (2) fuses which supply the power to the guage assembly. One should be a 15 amp, at location 24, and a 7.50 amp fuse at location 23. Regardless of the location number, simply compare the grid chart on the fuse panel to locate the fuse(s) in question. Please remove all the fuses one at a time, and varify them with a DMM. Just because they appear to be fine, does not mean one or more of them could be cracked. Below I will explain how to varify each component, assuming this is not electrically related to the entire dash unit. I will be indicating some of the standard Honda wire colors, but it may be different, so please varify each as being the stated component wiring. 1. Coolent Guage: Make sure your ignition is off, then disconnect the YEL/GRN wire from the coolent temperature guage sender and ground it with a jumper wire. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Check that the pointer of the coolent temperature guage starts to move toward the (H) mark. Remember, that you must turn the ignition off, prior to the pointer reaching past the (H) mark. Otherwise the guage pin dial will fail, due to over tension. If the guage does not swing at all, you either have a blown 7.50 amp fuse, or there is a open in the YEL, or YEL/GRN wire. If neither is the cause, then the coolent guage is faulty. If the guage is fine, then the sender unit in the engine compartment is faulty. SENDER TEST: Disconnect the YEL/GRN wire from the sender. With the engine cold, use a DMM set to measure resistance, and measure the resistance from the positive terminal and the engine ground. Check the temperature of the coolent. Run the engine and measure the change in resistance with the engine at operating temperature (the cooling fan will come on to indicate operating temp has been reached) Below are the standard values, if they differ a great deal from what is stated, this indicates that you havd a sender unit failure. Temperature: 133'F @ 142 ohms ( C mark ) 185'F - 212'F @ 49-32 ohms If you require the checks for the fuel pump and its sender, I will supply it as well. I have left you the above reply to isolate the possible causes, and to narrow down the possiblities. As the bobbin type guage is an electromagnetic device, which varies with resistance. The fuel guage is affected by a sliding resistor, and a thermistor is used in the temperature guage. Let us know what you find, but please do check all fuses with a DMM, one at a time. Even if they dont seem to be related. Regards EVIL Teken . . .

The correct value and panel number for the fuse under the dash is No.2 @ 15 amps which connects to a BLK/YEL wire. The other is No.1 @ 10 amps which is YEL in color. As I review over your schematic for your model year, all the circuits in question are all interconnected. Have you inspected the 3 ground wires which pertains to each device? Please review the supplied link for your schematic: https://icelord.net/honda/repair/ServiceManual/AccordManual/423/16-46.pdf