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gauge lighting dimmer


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navman28 
Member - Posts: 5
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Joined: October 28, 2009
Posted: October 28, 2009 at 10:06 PM / IP Logged  
I installed a 25 ohm 3 watt rheostat to adjust 3 gauges seperate from the instrument cluster lighting.  Now the rheostat gets extremely hot. I dont know much about electricity, but Im thinking of putting a 47 ohm  .5 watt resistor before the rheostat.  Will this help dissipate the heat?  Can anyone tell me what is needed to make it cooler?  The power supply is 12 volts and the gauge lighting is LED, but not sure how much they draw. Thanks
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: October 29, 2009 at 1:46 AM / IP Logged  
Yes this is simply ohms law in effect, adding more resistance will increase your problems, look to a variable DC-DC device.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 29, 2009 at 3:07 AM / IP Logged  
How did you wire the potentiometer?  Positive voltage on one leg, ground on another and your lights to the wiper?  Or did you wire it as a variable resistor, wired in series with the wire going to the lamps?  Are the lamps incandescent or LED?
navman28 
Member - Posts: 5
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Joined: October 28, 2009
Posted: October 29, 2009 at 7:24 AM / IP Logged  
power on the left side, ground on the right side, and lights in the middle.  The lights are LED, there is 1 per gauge for a total of 3.  So if I put in a resistor that will increase the heat?  I thought a resistor would help dissipate the heat from the pot by absorbing some heat.  Thanks for all the info.  I know just enough to be dangerous LOL.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
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Posted: October 29, 2009 at 7:31 AM / IP Logged  
You won't reduce the heat given off (Watts) though you may reduce the temperature with heatsinking.
The best solution is a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) circuit - eg, a 555 timer in 0-100% duty cycle configuration driving a FET or transistor.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
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Posted: October 29, 2009 at 7:34 AM / IP Logged  
Aha - wrong wiring!
Put the pot/rheostat in series with the lamps.
You have connected it across your voltage supply, hence the heat will be V**2/R Watts (ie, Supply Voltage x Voltage divided by Resistance).
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 29, 2009 at 7:43 AM / IP Logged  
With an LED it is going to take WAY more than 25 ohms to make even a slightly noticeable decrease in brightness.  If wired in series.  25 ohms across 13 volts into a 3 watt device is going to get really hot.  Can you get a higher value pot?  100 ohm to 470 ohm at 3 watts will not get hot. 
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
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Posted: October 29, 2009 at 8:07 AM / IP Logged  
You really need to know the size, number & wiring of the LEDs.
EG - if the LEDs are 20mA each with a 500R (Ohm) dropping resistor, a 2k resistor will drop the LEDs current four-fold (roughly).
That would be a 1k pot for 2 LEDS, or 500R pot for 4 LEDs etc.
But if they are in series....
EG 4 x 20mA LEDs in series, hence a 200R dropping resistor. Hence 800R = 1k pot for 1/4 current.
Experiment with a 1k or 5k pot. (Heat will depend on LED wiring.)
That's the beauty of a PWM circuit - the topology doesn't matter.
FYI - That's how you dim DC fluoros (eg, 12V) or - with a filament transformer - AC fluoros. (Fluoro tubes etc - not CFLs etc!)
navman28 
Member - Posts: 5
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Joined: October 28, 2009
Posted: October 29, 2009 at 8:57 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks everyone.  Radio Shack has a 5K-Ohm Linear Taper Potentiometer with Wattage rating of 0.5W.  Would this work?  Also, my current wiring for the current pot is positive on left, ground on right, and output in middle.  If I remove the ground that should make it in series correct?
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: October 29, 2009 at 9:11 AM / IP Logged  
Yep - just joint the centre arm to either of the ends.
Connect one end to +V & the other to the LEDs.
Whether the 1/2W rating is enough depends on the total current and position of the wiper.
If a 1k pot is cheap enough, get that too.
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