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remote start, 2008 hyundai sonata


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obstic 
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Joined: December 27, 2009
Posted: January 06, 2010 at 4:56 PM / IP Logged  
I am trying to install a remote starter on my 08 hyundai sonata and running into a couple troubles... First off, I have already checked out the wiring diagrams at https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~103561 and have a few questions about that. I have my Climate controls removed and I see 3 black boxes and I am not sure which is the ETACM. The bottom black box has three connections, a 24 pin, and two 20 pins. the middle black box has a single 20 pin. and the Top black box has another 20 pin connector. The wiring chart mentions a 24 pin and also a 20 pin but I am unsure which ones to wire to because hyundai uses the same color wires all over. Second, when I was wiring to the Starter circuit, I saw two green wires, so I only wired to one of them, is that a no-no?. Third, I need to know what the positive ignition out (to alarm) is. Finally, Does it matter what wire I connect to the fuel inject for the tach? I connected to the RED / black stripe. Other than that, I think I have the rest of my connections correct, but these few things are confusing me a bit.. Thanks for all your help
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
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Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: January 06, 2010 at 6:54 PM / IP Logged  
There is no need to get wires behind the HVAC controls becauses everything you need is under the driver's side dash or in the passenger kick panel. The starter wire is the green one which goes to 12 volts when cranking. The other one will for the accessory circuit which doesn't need to be hooked up for remote starters. Don't use an injector wire. The tach wire is in a 33 pin black plug in the driver's kick panel (White wire in cavity # 28) The ignition output may be a 12 volt output to connect to an add on alarm. Read the install manual for your starter.
sparky
obstic 
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Joined: December 27, 2009
Posted: January 06, 2010 at 7:20 PM / IP Logged  
DO you happen to know where/what the other wires I need are on the driver/passenger kick panels? More specifically, I need things like locks, factory arm/disarm, along those lines
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 359
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Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: January 08, 2010 at 8:22 PM / IP Logged  

Obstic-

The 2008 Sonata wiring is similar to the 2010.  Wiring location details can be found in the following link:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~118522~PN~10

You can reference the 2009 Sonata in the vehicle wiring  section of this site--2007 thru 2010 are pretty much the same.

Lectric Guy
brsexton 
Copper - Posts: 53
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Joined: January 21, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 10, 2010 at 5:14 PM / IP Logged  
lectricguy wrote:

Obstic-

 The 2008 Sonata wiring is similar to the 2010.  Wiring location details can be found in the following link:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~118522~PN~10

  You can reference the 2009 Sonata in the vehicle wiring  section of this site--2007 thru 2010 are pretty much the same.

This is great info. Do you know if the 2009 Kia Optima is close to this Sonata? I know they are alike in several ways. Also, did you have to do anything with the "key Sense" wire?
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 359
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Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: January 10, 2010 at 7:56 PM / IP Logged  

The Optima and Sonata are close--Wiring colors are different, however.  The 2008 & 2009 Optima are the same as wiring colors go--reference the Kia Optima vehicle info on this site.

As far as key sense, it is not necessary.  The vehicle disarms with ignition from remote start--entirely no need to use key sense.

Lectric Guy
brsexton 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 11, 2010 at 4:08 PM / IP Logged  
lectricguy wrote:

The Optima and Sonata are close--Wiring colors are different, however.  The 2008 & 2009 Optima are the same as wiring colors go--reference the Kia Optima vehicle info on this site.

As far as key sense, it is not necessary.  The vehicle disarms with ignition from remote start--entirely no need to use key sense.

Thanks for the quick reply. If the car disarms the factory alarm with ignition from remote start, is there any reason I'd need to use the "disarm" wire when installing R/S? I know if I did the entire remote start/keyless entry I'd need it, but I am thinking about doing the "add-on" system from Avital and just using my factory keyless to pulse the R/S. Thanks so much for your help.
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 359
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: January 11, 2010 at 8:19 PM / IP Logged  

The factory alarm disarm wire is not needed with a 2008 or 2009 Optima or Sonata for the remote starting function.  The factory remotes don't operate when the vehicle is running, however. 

To confirm this, start your vehicle with the key and attempt to unlock or the doors with the factory remote--it won't work.   You may want to consider a remote starter with the keyless entry function as well. 

Lectric Guy
brsexton 
Copper - Posts: 53
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: January 12, 2010 at 4:22 AM / IP Logged  
lectricguy wrote:

The factory alarm disarm wire is not needed with a 2008 or 2009 Optima or Sonata for the remote starting function.  The factory remotes don't operate when the vehicle is running, however. 

To confirm this, start your vehicle with the key and attempt to unlock or the doors with the factory remote--it won't work.   You may want to consider a remote starter with the keyless entry function as well. 

You are correct. It seems that the pesky "key sense" is the one turning off the factory remotes. Once the key in inserted in the ignition, not even turned on, the factory remotes stop working. Wonder what the chances are of the remotes still working while the car is running, if the key sense wire was disconnected? I know its a shot in the dark, but I may disconnect the "key sense" wire and then start the car and see if the remotes are still disabled. Almost everything in the car ties into the BCM, so the odd's aren't on my side with this.
I 'may' end up going with the full system because of this little road block, but I'd rather just add to my factory keyless. I don't need the extra distance, or some of the added features of the full R/S Keyless system, and I like my simple factory remote. Thanks again for your help and advice.
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 359
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: January 12, 2010 at 8:59 AM / IP Logged  

The BCM monitors more than keysense.  The factory remotes will not work with these vehicles when remote started without using the keysense.  

I would recommend the RS/KE combination.  there are a few out there without exotic remotes, something more traditional looking, such as the Prestige APS620N, or (older) Viper 160XV. 

Lectric Guy
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