pljx uti express kit and python 413

I got the PLJX-UTI Express kit and Python 413..

it will be install on a Alero Oldsmobile 2003(passlock 2)

Where to connect the brown wire from PLJX-UT I (after it has program the resitance value for passlock key 2), it  say connect to the ground output from the remote start?

Here's the wiring on each device:

PLJX-UTI Express kit 

Brown  =  ground out from remote start (**connect brown wire ONLY after programming is complete)

Green = Vehicule key sense wire--------NOT FOR MY CAR

Blue = Passlock resistor value wire

Violet/white = Bulb test out(passlock 1 only) ----------NOT FOR MY CAR

Violet = Start wire (passlock 1 and 2)

Pink/white = N/C----------------NOT FOR MY CAR

Pink = Ignition wire

Orange = N/C--------------------NOT FOR MY CAR

Red = Connect to 12 V constant

Black = Ground wire in Passlock harness or chassis ground

and Python 413:

Primary harness H1

H1/1 light GREEN/ black =  - 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm

H1/2 GREEN / WHITE = - 200mA Factory Alarm Disarm

H1/3 yellow = + 200 mA ignition out to alarm

H1/4 WHITE/ blue = - 200mA activation input

H1/5 orange = - 500mA ground when locked

H1/6 brown = - 200mA horn output

H1/7 RED / white = - 200mA trunk release ouput

H1/8 black = ground **************************  IS IT THIS ONE I GOT TO US FROM MY PLJX-UTI brown out to remote start ground?**************

H1/9 white = +/- light flash ouput

4-pin satellite harness

1 blue = - 200mA staus output

2 orange = - 200mA accessory ouput

3 purple = - 200mA starter ouput

4 pink = - 200mA ignition ouput

heavy gauge relay wiring

1 pink = + ouput to ignition circuit

2 purple = + output to starter circuit

3 orange = + output to accessory circuit

4 red = + 30A high current 12 input

5 pink/white = + programmable ouput for accessory or ignition

6 red = + 30A high current 12v input

door lock harness 3 pin connector

1 blue = - unlock ouput

2 empty = not used

3 green = - lock ouput

remote start harness H2 wiring

H2/1 BLACK/ white = - neutral safety switch input

H2/2 violet/white = tachometer input wire

H2/3 brown = + brake switch shutdown wire

H2/4 gray = - hood pinswitch shutdown wire

H2/5 blue/white = - 200mA 2ND status / rear defogger output

its the "status output" wire on the python. Your python has 2. Blue in the 4 pin harness. Blue/white in the H/2 harness. But, if you want to add rear defrost now or in the future, use the solid blue wire above. If you don't care about rear defrost, then either one is good to use.

Thanks, I'll use the Blue in the 4 pin harness,

i want install the rear defogger on Blue/white in the H/2 harness

By the way what does it do Connecting the brown wire from PLJX-UTI Express kit to the 4-pin satellite harness

blue = - 200mA staus output (only after the programing passlock resitor is completed )

does it send resitor value(passlock2) to the remote start?

after programming(which is really a resistance learning process) it will send the newly learned resistance code to the car upon remote start only. So your car will be secure all other times.

I finaly instal it, did a mistake with the toggle on/off switch, i  plug it to ground and the other end to H1/4 WHITE/ blue = - 200mA activation input

didn't start and red light was blinking on the python 413

Then i had skip a page on the book and it stated to plug the toggle switch to gound and they other end to H2/1 BLACK/ white = - neutral safety switch input  "and iut started "

Now it's the negative  trunk release doesn't work " H1/7 RED / white = - 200mA trunk release ouput to the white on the middle plug BCM"

Maybe the 200ma not strong enought, i should try a relay conected 87 to ground and #30 to white wire on middle plug on BCM??

Anyone done this?

And how to wire up the a Latche rear defoger???

Directech Wiring diagram for Alero 2003

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?catid=52

flobee4 wrote: after programming(which is really a resistance learning process) it will send the newly learned resistance code to the car upon remote start only. So your car will be secure all other times.

Thanks, i wonder if i dissconect the battery if it will keep the resitance value in memory for long, without reprograming the resistance

Hmmm, I haven't done that car myself, but a few things about the trunk release I would try. First make sure you are on the correct wire by testing it with your meter and activating the trunk by releasing the trunk using the factory method(either hit trunk release button on dash or factory remote). Then after you test it, then disconnect the remote starter trunk release wire and test it for ground while activating the trunk release from the python remote. After those test results reconnect the wire and test it while hooked up. I have a feeling you have the wrong trunk release wire in the car. If everything test out good, and only if everything test out good, you can try to ground the wire directly and see if the trunk pops. If it does then you need a relay. The info you have is: black - lt. gry plug, pin A7 @ BCM but, you mentioned a white wire in the post above. Also, an you might be able to find the trunk release wire in the drivers kick panel - BLACK/ white (-) Drivers Kick Panel, Black plug. If you got your powerlocks in the kick panel, then its in the same black plug. As for the rear defroster, You tap into it with the blue/white status output and in the programming menu you can change that output to latched. The menu option you want to change is "2nd status output" As for the bypass, I don't think that one looses its programming, no matter how long its without power.

Trunk release wire is RED / white.

Sorry about that, it was the (-) black(not the white)  i use for the trunk release, it's on the middle gray plug on the BCM.

And to  tap into it with the blue/white status output and in the programming menu you can change that output to latched. The menu option you want to change is "2nd status output"  do i use a < color=#002398>Bitwriter or can i use the valvet switch and remote?

flobee4 wrote: Hmmm, I haven't done that car myself, but a few things about the trunk release I would try. First make sure you are on the correct wire by testing it with your meter and activating the trunk by releasing the trunk using the factory method(either hit trunk release button on dash or factory remote). Then after you test it, then disconnect the remote starter trunk release wire and test it for ground while activating the trunk release from the python remote. After those test results reconnect the wire and test it while hooked up. I have a feeling you have the wrong trunk release wire in the car. If everything test out good, and only if everything test out good, you can try to ground the wire directly and see if the trunk pops. If it does then you need a relay. The info you have is: black - lt. gry plug, pin A7 @ BCM but, you mentioned a white wire in the post above. Also, an you might be able to find the trunk release wire in the drivers kick panel - BLACK/ white (-) Drivers Kick Panel, Black plug. If you got your powerlocks in the kick panel, then its in the same black plug. As for the rear defroster, You tap into it with the blue/white status output and in the programming menu you can change that output to latched. The menu option you want to change is "2nd status output" As for the bypass, I don't think that one looses its programming, no matter how long its without power.

howie ll wrote: Trunk release wire is RED / white.

Sorry , I don't see a RED / white wire in the Directech or the bulldog wiring diagram(alero 2003) for the trunk release, they both say it's black