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mobile dvd system resets

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brownsmaddawg 
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Posted: November 21, 2009 at 7:26 PM / IP Logged  

Unit that is installed, works fine, up to when the engine is started, The voltage drops below 11 volts which cause the unit to power off, unit must have voltage above 11 vdc and below 16 vdc to work correctly. My question is this , is there any after device to keep the voltage to the dvd system above 11 volts.

DVD system is car show cs700dvd, made by Rosen entertainment

Brian Grant
i am an idiot 
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Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: November 21, 2009 at 7:38 PM / IP Logged  
Did this problem just arise in the cooler weather?
brownsmaddawg 
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Member spacespace
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Posted: November 21, 2009 at 7:45 PM / IP Logged  
No, either warm or cold weather, also vehicle has a new battery. make of vehicle is a  98 pontiac transport
Brian Grant
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Posted: November 21, 2009 at 8:32 PM / IP Logged  

Does the unit have a constant 12 volt feed, as well as a switched power source?  If it does you may be able to stabilize the constant wire with a large capacitor and a diode.  If the unit uses the constant wire only to keep the memory, a 4700 micrifarad capacitor should be enough to retain the power long enough.  If the unit gets it's power through the constant and uses the switched wire simply as a trigger wire, you may need more than 4700 mics worth of capacitor.  I will draw a diagram for you in a few.  Radio Shack should have a 4700 mic capactor, 25 volts or greater.  And they also sell some 3 amp diodes.  You will need 2 of the diodes.

mobile dvd system resets -- posted image.

mulder0990 
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Posted: November 22, 2009 at 7:43 PM / IP Logged  

There is a constant 12v hot, an ignition wire, and a ground.  The threshold for the DVD player is 11-15v.   When the van is started, the voltage at the battery drops below 11 volts for a split second, but that is enough to reset the DVD player.  I am going to check the starter to see if that could be a problem also, but I think it is just the way the van was built.  Will the wiring diagram change any with a switched source?

By The Way, brownsmaddawg is the one helping me with the install

i am an idiot 
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Posted: November 22, 2009 at 8:11 PM / IP Logged  

I assumed it had a switched wire also.  The only thing that may change is going to be the value of the capactior.  If the unit draws it's power from the constant wire you may need more than 4700 mics worth of capacitance.  If the yellow wire is simply used as a memory wire, the 4700 should be enough.  You will have to try it and see if it works.  Is there a fuse on both the constant and switched wires of the unit?  Which wire has the larger fuse?   If one cap is not enough, try paralleling a second one.  That should take care of it.

oldspark 
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Posted: November 22, 2009 at 10:35 PM / IP Logged  
I assume the old big-3 are okay, and the DVD is getting its supply from the battery - not via the starter motor etc?
Reduction starters may be another solution, but that's an expensive option if that's all fine for now.
(I have a reduction stater in my (non-EFI) 12V vehicle which still cranks and starts below 6V. My battery is well past normal service life & capacity, but I have an identical as backup in case. The aux battery is only connected when the vehicle is charging - and that's only to keep the aux battery charged. The connection system is a common $5 relay.)
But I too have an Alpine head unit that ceases output during cranking - but it then continues normally. If it were an issue, I'd use a small internal aux battery similar to my aux above.
mulder0990 
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Posted: November 23, 2009 at 8:15 PM / IP Logged  
I was playing around with things that are accessable to me on the drivers seat to see what I could do to drop the voltage and I can shut the dvd player off if I hold both of my automatic window switches to put them up when they are already up.  It seems to drop the voltage enough to dim the lights in the van.  Is there something that I am missing or is this just the make up of the vehicle?
i am an idiot 
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Posted: November 23, 2009 at 8:34 PM / IP Logged  
Where is the constant wire of the Rosen unit connected?  If not to the battery, try running a decent size wire to the battery and install a fuse at the battery.
oldspark 
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Posted: November 23, 2009 at 9:36 PM / IP Logged  
mulder0990 wrote:
... if I hold both of my automatic window switches to put them up when they are already up.  It seems to drop the voltage enough to dim the lights in the van.  ...is this just the make up of the vehicle?
That is typical of many vehicles.
Stalled motors (always?) consume higher currents than in operation.
But most will have thermal cutouts or more than one level of protection (upstream fusing etc).
You'll probably find the lights will brighten one the fuse pops, though usually CBs (Circuit Breakers) so you ca eventually close opened windows.
If however the motors or wiring get too hot prior to protection circuits working, the lamps may remain dim and even get dimmer until a glow emanating from a warming spot eventually lights up the cookpit, and eventually the neighborhood if allowed to continue.
(I'm not poking fun at you, I'm just elaborating what happens if protection doesn't work - albeit with some poetic license.)
The voltage dip is probably the battery or drops thru +12V wiring and fuses etc.
It's if the drop is across grounding straps or the common +12V wiring - hence my first questing in my previous reply.

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