driving lights wiring opinions

Hello there, I've just bought a set of driving lights for my 2010 Toyota Tacoma and am in the process of wiring them up. My state allows driving lights to be on with the high beams, so rather than just wiring them into any ol' power source I want to tie them into the high beams so they come on and off together and I don't have to hit a separate switch to turn off the driving lights every time I come across another vehicle. However, I also would like to have the option of turning them on or off at any time as the situation may warrant. The idea I've come up with is putting a 3 position (on/off/on) switch in the cab with one on position tied to the high beams and the other tied to the ignition switch. Wiring and electricity aren't exactly my strongest skill set so I wanted to get some other opinions on whether or not this setup will work. Here is the schematic I've come up with The one amp fuses on the fuse taps are for the secondary slot to protect the switch (I am planning on using an empty slot on the interior block that is tied into the ignition switch circuit so it should only require the switch fuse) Here is the switch I am planning on using. I will be ordering the lighted model so I've run a wire to ground in the schematic. So do you think this will work? The fuses for the high beams should only be getting power when I've got the high beams turned on in the cab right? Or is there a relay further downline that I would have to tie into? (I'm away from my truck at work for the next few weeks so I can't check) If anybody sees any problems or has any suggestions to make it work better I would appreciate the input. Thanks for your time!

Not that I got your switch link to work, but googling P-260-DPDT revealed your tacomaworld posting. But the hi-power part looks ok, though the relay need only be SPST (30A). But I question the legality of being able to just have the driving lights on. That depends on your regulations. And of course their interpretation. (I was once "failed" for having outer low-beams remain low whilst the inner hi-beam went high (LOL - a method used now by many cars). But the regulation was that the hi-beam MUST DIP when the dip-switch is dipped - there was nothing to preclude low beams with high. I passed (after threats).) I suspect it could be done simpler with a diode (to fit with your "always on with hi" desire, but I suggest having an "enable" switch for the driving lights anyhow.... IE - you may not always want driving lights on with the hi-beam. Although the driving lights are normally "enabled" to come on with hi, a simple SPST switch betwen the hi beam and the relay enables it to be turned off. But that is what your 3-position SPDT does anyhow. The question is though, can you legally drive with only driving lights on? And if they are on (with other lights off), how will you know? (The answer is "obvious", but is its importance understood?) Many cars have a similar ability with high beams - but that requires the driver to hold the "pass dipper" stalk in place (for hi beam to come on without other lamps). Depending on what the driving lights only are for, I imagine them ON when ignition is off (and maybe beams off) is acceptable. But otherwise the diagram looks fine. Even the OR-ing (joining) of the LH & RH hi-beams should be ok through 1A fuses - but preferably from the unfused side (in case a shorted hi-beam does not blow the other side's 10A fuse before the 1A fuse). Normally that hi-beam signal would be taken from the dip switch, but I assume the fusebox is more easily accessible? (And I assume the hi-beam fuses are AFTER the hi-beam relay or switch - but they usually aren't. Fuses tend to be before the switch and relay (as with your 20A relay) UNLESS it is one relay that supplies both sides through different fuses - there will be some "master" fuse before the relay - typically fuselinks from the battery etc.) [I'd be tempted to just wire an in line switch from the dip switch in case I want to turn off the driving lights. I would then have a separate switch powered from IGN or whatever as a "bypass" (on irrespective of other switches), but that requires a diode between each switch and the relay to prevent dipper feeding IGN and vice versa etc. But then I only need a BIG indicator for "bypass on", and optional lamp for "on with hi-beam", and it uses SPST switches with largely independent wiring (ie, if one switch fails....).]

Thanks for the reply! Yeah I should have known it only needs to be a single throw relay, as its only controlling one circut. I was working off another guys setup on tacomaworld. At any rate, I will be using the relay that came with the kit. As far as the legality of driving lights in conjunction with high beams, I am going off of this from the annotated Montana code of law which states: (3) A motor vehicle may not be equipped with more than two auxiliary driving lamps that produce a long-range, pencil-shaped light pattern and that are used to supplement the upper beams of headlamps. Auxiliary driving lamps must be mounted on the front at a height not less than 16 inches or more than 42 inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands. The provisions of 61-9-220 apply to a combination of headlamps and auxiliary driving lamps. An auxiliary driving lamp may not be used as a substitute for headlamps or lighted at any time the headlamps are required to be on in the low-beam position. So as long as they are mounted correctly (which they are) and I don't have them on with my low beams I should be ok. I really only want the option of having them on at any time in case I am off roading or need the light to work etc. while the truck is parked. I don't intend to drive with only the aux lights on, rather only in conjunction with the high beams. Sorry for the broken switch link. Let me try again.    Sigma   It looks like exactly what I want but I can't find any vendors for it. You wouldn't happen to have any suggestions for sigma switch (or something comparable) vendors would you? I will have to get under the hood with a multimeter when I get home (I'm away at work for a few weeks) and see when the fuses for the highbeams are getting power. It seems like that would be the easiest option if they get powered with the dip switch, though if they are always powered I may tie into the dip switch as you suggested or just splice into the hot wires off the headlights themselves. Thanks again for the input, I appreciate it.

Hi Rooty, Sigma switches - cute! I presume type D (on-off-on SPDT) or P (same but DPDT) - unless you want on/off/momentary-on N SPDT or R DPDT). Type 4 or 5. 12V lamps. Lens color(s) to suit. Mabe a 260P-5BBRU12 I like the mixed color possibility - ie, red for "on with ignition" and blue or green "on with hi beam". That covers my concern earlier - being on with headlights off or dipped. The only thing I can't see is how the switch lamps are terminated (usually to ground) - there should be a terminal(s) for them... But looking for switches - ha - where are they? I can't even find the big square red & green illuminated push buttons I used years ago in my car (the oil pressure light triggered a 2-second timer to kill the ignition and lit the two (flashing) buttons. Red killed the engine, green overrode the timer keeping the engine running.) I think the Sigma is the way to go - I find nothing comparable in my local catalogs - unless splitting into 2 separate switches (as per my suggestion above - #1 is with hi-beam else off; #2 is bypass - ie, on with ignition no matter what). Then there are some lit $4 12mm round push-buttons (that probably need a separate ~680Ohm 1/2Watt resistor for their LED) from Altronics (at these links) ( red, green, or amber; flat-side 18mm round mounting - aka 15mm round with extended ends, or larger $14 24x18mm rectangular lit pushbuttons with 16mm diameter mounting ie - red, green, orange, white - with 12V spare globes for $3.55. (Note the latter all picture orange lenses, and "alternate" means "not momentary".]     But for easy spade connectors, integral 12V bulbs etc.... nah? Maybe contact Sigma direct? Maybe my google is faulty - I found the odd switch here & there - eg, the American RV Company's black 3-pos rocker ebaymotors - or try http:///American-RV-Company if that link doesn't work - and their switch mounting panels, but nothing else. Or maybe the12volt.com, though I only find Sigma alarms etc there... As to the circuit and legalities, in short, I think both are fine. And thanks - good stuff those Montana Codes (and the Sigma link!). As with almost any regulation anywhere, they seem to have the same intent, but as usual, differ in wording. (ha ha!) But as I see it, although you "can" automatically control the lamps, you can also manually control them. Or rather - based on those two references only, there is nothing prohibiting your manual control of the driving lights. Cool!    The rest is whether or not you do NOT turn off the driving lights in certain situations. But in "normal" operation, yours will dip with the hi-beams etc so that is nothing new.... And you can have them off with hi-beams. That obviously isn't a issue. It's only if on by themselves in certain situations (or if 42 inches above the ground) that there are issues. But that can have interesting interpretations....   I'll put some as an addendum below. Besides, you mentioned truck. If you are what we call a trucker, then even here you would probably be a "better than most" professional, concerned and courteous driver, and you would NOT have badly aimed or misused lights etc. And dare I say that being stateside, you do not have the untrained discourteous poorly skilled drivers that we have here. (Our license tests are measured in minutes.) Anyhow, that's it. You seem only to have the typical installers problem - the parts, the fitting etc. The circuit is the easy part (for some of us). (As I say, "Sure! - I'll wire up your system - as long as you have all the bits in place first".) Regards, OldFart. ADDENDUM (read only for legal or other amusement): First a BIG caveat - I do NOT know the LEGAL definitions of your regulations - they will differ to ours, so I could be way wrong. And some pre-ramble.... I'll put my barrister wig on. [FYI: We have solicitors for the usual legal work, and barristers for the court representation. This creates extra jobs and income. I prefer a prostitute that can also serve coffee - ie, a "solicitater" with barista qualifications, but social reform and my humor are beyond the scope of this reply.] We use "Shall" meaning "Mandatory"; "can" and "may" mean just that - "might" and "optional" etc.) The Montana Code(s) seem to use may as "mandatory", but elsewhere as "can". But maybe your "may" means "must & mandatory" etc 61-9-220 uses several musts and one(?) can, and one may as in "....use, and may not otherwise be lighted" (2nd last sentence.   They seem straightforward with must & may as mandatory and can as optional. But here it could be argued that the "may" is optional and is merely a statement of information - especially since that part stands on its own - ie, the comma separates it from the rest of the sentence. [FYI - here someone Willed their estate "to Tom, Dick & Harriet". So each got 1/3rd? No! Tom got half. Dick & Harriet got half (1/4 each). If equal split was intended, it would have said "Tom, Dick, and Harriet" - the comma-and splitting the 3 entities, and breaking English rules of grammar. BTW - both our English & Legal definition of "or" now coincide - "or" officially means "and/or" - so never again need we right &/or or and/or.]       Now for the gritty: "An auxiliary driving lamp may not be used as a substitute for headlamps or lighted at any time the headlamps are required to be on in the low-beam position. " If your may is optional, you can ignore that regulation. But I expect "may not be used" is mandatory (ie - our "Shall not me used") and I would expect Montana Law to specify that (somewhere, somehow - maybe by precedent). But "... or lighted any time the headlamps are required to be on in the low-beam position" - so you can have low-beam on with highbeam when low-beam are NOT required to be on (ie, dipper in hi position). Sorry - that's useless for you, but it covers my old situation, and modern cars. "An auxiliary driving lamp may not be..." - but both can be? Does an mean one? If not, why didn't they say "Any"? So you can use just the driving lights at anytime? But if approaching another MOVING vehicle, you must turn "a" driving light off (not both?). But you don't have to turn it or both off if the other vehicle is stationary, or if you are stationary and the vehicle approaches you. IE - from "A motor vehicle may not be equipped with more than two spot lamps and a lighted spot lamp must be turned off upon approaching another moving vehicle from either direction. Ah, the fun of semantics. Here many cases fail on such semantics. One precendent is that it is the intent of the rule or law etc - you can't get off on a mere technicality (unless reasonably proven that the interpretation was reasonable for a reasonable person etc etc...). And many non-legal people fail to understand legal jargon etc. It's a bit like contract law - forget what you THINK it says or means - what DOES IT actually say? ("Oh - but surely our Prime-Minister meant...." LOL!)

Wow Old Spark! You have been exceedingly helpful on this, I really appreciate it. Hopefully it has bought you enough good Karma to last you a while. Thanks for the switch links. I've tried contacting Sigma via their website but haven't gotten any joy as of yet. I suspect I am going to have to give them a call. I just hope they are willing to sell me only one. Good food for thought on the legal issues as well. Fortunately we don't have to endure vehicle inspections here so I shouldn't have to argue my case unless I am foolish enough to drive around with only the driving lights on or use them with the low beams. Again, thanks for going out of your way. Best of luck in the new year!

Thanks Rooty! I got some enjoyment out of someone else's Karma this morning - their new engine blew up whilst running in. (Not that I ever wish bad Karma (I don't have to LOL!) - but they are of a crowd that know better, strike unless confronted, etc.) And I have overwritten on this post (as with many others of late!) - but I get something out of it - namely it keeps me in practice. The number of wrong replies/comments I initially make, then I read again etc etc. Fine for those legal codes, but my first line in my first reply above was akin to "Bad!". Then I figured out the DPDT switch was NOT switching the heavy power, only the solenoid (relay coil) power. D'oh! My bad!    It beats me how I can do that - and so often. I put it down to lack of real (or real-time) stimulous, and an expectation of what people are intending. Yep, (some) "folks are dumb where I come from"... Alas that is VERY different on this site (so far!). (Not that I posted a link to this site in my last reply. I knew I wasn't on another site like mp3car. How dumb do you think I am? "folks are dumb where... I live".) And you are like so many other orig & rookie posters I have seen on here. Namely - why are you asking? - you know it all or have it down pat etc. Or at least seem to. The difference seems to be many here do the research etc but ask for confirmation of thoughts etc. I'm used to those that ask the forum first before trying google or even the white pages, and then seem to argue or dispute or use us to do their thinking etc - or others jump in and argue. (Often about "facts" or things that disappeared last decade, or last millennium!) The time has come for me to return to short exec-summary replies. Let readers ask for clarification or more info - don't presume tuition is required nor distrating humour and case studies appreciated. Thanks for alerting me to Sigma Switches. I'd be interested in their price & buy quantity for a switch similar to yours. (DPDT, 3 pos, 2 lights.) And thanks for your good luck wishes. Though I don't think I need luck anymore - Karma seems to be looking after me. Not that I'm superstitious.....

I'll post a reply on this thread for ya when I get a price quote. Incidentally, where in OZ are you located? I spend a night in Cairns every month on my way to and from work (PNG). If you ever need me to bring something in for you from the states (no engine blocks or ladders please) to save you some postage let me know and I can send it to you from Cairns.

I'm down south, but Cairns is only 3 days drive - I'll pick it up. Thanx!