programming viper 5704 problems

Hello all, I recently installed a new Viper 5704 in my 2002 Chevy Silverado. So far the alarm works just fine although the remote start doesn't work. I'm assuming that it's because the remote start is in manual transmission mode when it needs to be in automatic. I can't, however, program the controller to be in automatic transmission mode. I actually am not able to enter any programming mode at all. I followed the directions in the manual but it still doesn't work. Just for completeness this is what I've done: Opened door Turned key to start Turned engine off (key now at ACC) Held down control button for about a minute No chirps from siren Turned key to start Turned engine off (key now at OFF) Held down control button for about a minute No chirps Turned key to start Turned engine off (key to ACC) Turned key back to ON (engine still off though) Held down control button for a bout a minute No chirps Turned key to start Held down control button for a minute (just to try something else) No chirps Took out 15 Amp fuse for 5704 power supply and left it out for about 5 minutes before replacing it. Repeated above steps. The siren never made a sound when I was doing all this so I'm guessing that it never entered the programming mode. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might be doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

Are your door triggers connected correctly? Green H2/ should go to ground when doors are opened. Is the pink H/3 wire connected to ignition 1? TEST the above. Is this a refurbished/second hand unit? If so transmitter/feature programming might be locked out, back to vendor or get your hands on a Bitwriter.Test before boxing up.

No it's brand new. The pink wire is connected to Ign 1, but I forgot to mention that I am using the DBALL2 connected by D2D, if that makes any difference. Here are the wires in question with their connections: 5704 H1 Harness 1 Red => 12V constant 2 Black => GND 3 Brown => Siren 4 Wht/Brn => Not Used 5 Wht => Not Used 6 Orange => Not Used H3 Harness 1 Pink => Ign 1 (Pink) 2 Rd/Wht => Ign 2 (White) 3 Orange => Acc (Brown) 4 Violet => Starter side of Ign (Yellow) 5 Green => Key side of Ign (Yellow) 6 Red => Ign 1 (Pink) 7 Pnk/Wht => Ign 2 (White) 8 Pnk/Blk => Not used 9 RED / Blk => Acc (Brown) 24 - Pin Aux Harness 9 Gray => Hood Switch 13 Blk/Wht => GND (Neutral Safety) DBALL2 14 Pin Harness 2 Prpl/Yel => Pin 2 of OBDII 12 Pin Harness 1 Blk/Wht => Driver Door Sense (Tan wire of purple BCM connector) 2 Grn/Blk => Not Used (Bulb test wire) 8 Vlt/Grn => 9 Vlt/Brn => Tied with 8 and connected to small gauge yellow wire coming from ignition switch The DBALL2 has been programmed with the GM5 firmware.

Major problems with the H3 harness :

H3 Harness 1 Pink => Ign 1 (Pink) 2 Rd/Wht => Ign 2 (White) 3 Orange => Acc (Brown) 4 Violet => Starter side of Ign (Yellow) 5 Green => Key side of Ign (Yellow) 6 Red => Ign 1 (Pink) 7 Pnk/Wht => Ign 2 (White) 8 Pnk/Blk => Not used 9 RED / Blk => Acc (Brown)

Should be :

H3 Harness 1 Pink => Ign 1 (Pink) 2 Rd/Wht => +12V constant  Red or RED / White3 Orange => Acc1 Orange4 Violet => Starter side of Ign (Yellow) 5 Green => Key side of Ign (Yellow) 6 Red => +12V constant Red or RED / White7 Pnk/Wht => Ign 2 (White)   ***Viper default programming is Flex Relay = IGN28 Pnk/Blk => Not used 9 RED / Blk => +12V constant Red or RED / White

That leaves the Brown ACC2 wire un-powered during a remote start.  You will need an extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay to power

this vehicle wire.  The wiring for this extra relay is covered in the Pictorial.

Here is a pictorial on this truck :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~135786~PN~1

Soldering is fun!

Thanks for your help, I was using the "finding the wires you need guide" and it seemed somewhat confusing regarding the Polarity Feed for the Ignition and Accessory lines. If I connect the Rd/Wht, Red, and Rd/Blk to the Red or Rd/Wht 12 volt lines do I need to do anything special? Like with regard to amperage draw on the lines? Also the SPDT relay you mentioned, does it have to be continuous duty? Thanks again.

I usually split the remote starters load between the vehicles available +12V supply wires.  With your remote start system, each

+12V input wire is fused.  Basically, the vehicles two +12V constant wires at the ignition switch are capable of supplying all thepower needs of the ignition circuits ( IGN1, IGN2, ACC1, ACC2, Starter ).  The Vipers system itself doesn't draw all that much extra current.  The siren is minimal, (-) Parking Light control is minimal and the power lock control is a bit more but very brief in duration.Most installers connect only to those two +12V ignition wires ( as shown in the Pictorial ) however, if you feel that the Vipers total load would be too much, you can always run a heavy gauge wire ( appropriately fused ) directly to the battery.

Any standard automotive Bosch style 30/40 Amp relay should be suitable for the ACC2 circuit.  They are available at better automotive

stores, RadioShack and even from online stores & EBay.  Get one with the 5 wire harness / socket to make the install even easier. 

Soldering is fun!

Interesting, that explains the original problem. Of course you couldn't program, you were dumping the constant power to the unit when you turned off the key. Rule of thumb, the constant H/3 wires red, RED / white and RED / black will draw the same current as the ignition loom wiring, hence it's safe to use the ignition loom constant supply wires. Having said that, like Kreg I often split them up where convenient*, for instance an adjacent thick battery supply to a fuse box. *If only to have less bulk in the ignition loom. The relay, H2/ orange NEG (-) ACC output to relay 85. Constant fused at 30amps to 86 and 87. Vehicle's second ACC joined to 30. To safeguard the Viper aux circuitry H2, connect a diode across 85 and 86, 1N4004, band side to 86.Test before boxing up.

Thanks for your help guys. I guess it's time to track down a relay and fire up the soldering iron.

Well I think I straightened out all the wires but it's still not entering programming mode. I did include the relay to power the ACC2 circuit, but instead of connecting one of the powers to pin 87, I connected it to 87a. The instant I plugged in the wire from ACC1 the relay would turn on 87, so my radio would be on even though the truck was off. Is this acceptable? Any other ideas what the problem could be? The truck locks and unlocks just fine so I know the DBALL2 is working. I'm adding a picture that shows my current wiring. Don't laugh. Please.

12 Volts constant to the 87 and 86 pins of the relay. NOT 87a. The H2/22 orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output to the 85 Pin. This will power the Acc 2 of your truck.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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