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light led at specific resistance?


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astrosurfer 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 21, 2009 at 10:21 PM / IP Logged  
thanks..
I'll look into all that...
sorry bout delay but been very busy.
astrosurfer 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 23, 2009 at 5:12 PM / IP Logged  
OK
Been looking into this in more detail.
I looked at the schematic above and have a question.
What I have controling my gauge is a resistance range of 0-90 ohms. 90 being full tank.
The wire going to the gauge (which has 12v and ground ) measures no voltage on my DMM only resistance.
So I take out my cluster again. Did some measuring and find the above details.
So I'm back to needing to turn on a light at 20 ohms.
Does the above suggested schematic still work?
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,674
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 23, 2009 at 8:05 PM / IP Logged  
There has to be voltage to power the gauge.  Are you using a digital meter to read voltage?
astrosurfer 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 23, 2009 at 9:33 PM / IP Logged  
yes I am
The fuel gauge has 3 terminals.
+12v
Gnd
resistance input.
I don't understand it myself....but it seems that the gauge has 12v and ground.
Then resistance across the slosh to ground triggers the gauge.
The less resistance the lower the gauge reads.
With it out of the car I had it wired with 12v supply, and ground.
This sends the needle over the full to max.
Applying resistance between 0-90 ohms makes the gauge act accordingly. but only across ground and slosh wire.
I am slightly confused by this.
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: February 23, 2009 at 10:44 PM / IP Logged  
I would set the gauge so that it reads half way.  Then, recheck the voltage between the ground terminal and the resistance input right at the gauge.  Since a change in resistance will cause a change in voltage I think you should be seeing between the actual resistance input and sensor ground.
Kevin Pierson
astrosurfer 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 25, 2009 at 6:26 PM / IP Logged  
ok
I will try that and report my findings...I hope I am understanding you right.
90 ohms is not alot to change 12v though is it?
KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: February 25, 2009 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged  

90 ohms by itself won't be enough to change the voltage, but 90 ohms paried with a second resistor would.  Most systems that use a resistive based sensor use what is called a "voltage divider".  The voltage divider is two resistors wired in series from 12vdc to ground.  The output voltage between the two resistors can vary drastically as the resistance of one resistor changes.  The key here is to keep the second resistor consistent, then you can use the voltage between the sensor to represent the value, as voltage, of whatever you are trying to read.

Something else you may try is measuring the resistance between the input of the guage and the 12vdc pin.  If you can figure out the resistance of the second resistor (assuming they are using a voltage divider) then you can actually calculate the voltage at any point, and then set up a comparator circuit to work.  This would have to assume the gauge is operating at 12vdc and not 5vdc and is probably a long shot because of this.  For accuracy and repeatability you would want to feed the sensor with a stable voltage, so I wouldn't be surprised if it did have a 5vdc regulator driving it.

Speaking of comparator circuits, I just built one yesterday using an LM324 from Radioshack.  Pretty straight forward little circuits.

Anyway, back to your situation - there are two reasons I strongly believe that you are working with a voltage divider 1. that is the typical way to interface a resistive sensor and 2. because your sensor goes to 0 ohms.  Almost any other type of interface would be damaged by the sensor essentially shorting to ground.  However, if there is a second resistor in series with the 0 ohm sensor then the power supply won't actually be shorted.

Kevin Pierson
astrosurfer 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: February 26, 2009 at 5:52 PM / IP Logged  
LOL
all french to me dude.
But I am going to do what you suggest.
I think I sort of understand what you mean.
I am truly miffed by this one though.
astrosurfer 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: March 04, 2009 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  
OK
back with some findings
I find that I have voltage out on my resistance terminal.
varies between 2.75 volts with 15 ohms bridged
and @ 82 ohms I have 6.22 volts at the resistance terminal.
So I'm thinking that i am an idiot's circuit will work for me.
or does that not figure right?
So I'd like to turn the light on at say 2.5 volts.
That'd be around 12.5 ohms.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,674
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: March 05, 2009 at 12:57 AM / IP Logged  
That is what that circuit is designed to do. Fill the tank to the level in which you would like it to light up at, and adjust the potentiometer until it lights up. Add a gallon of fuel and make sure it goes off. If the pot is too touchy to get accurate, when I am actually awake I will figure out a voltage divider and a smaller pot so you can get it more accurate.
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