g35 sedan having lock/unlock wiring issue

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KPierson

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Posted: October 21, 2009 at 5:05 AM / IP Logged

Think about a standard 5 wire door locking relay setup (which is what the BCM is doing).

On the UNLOCK relay pin 87A that is connected to ground is no longer connected to ground. When you unlock the doors the UNLOCK relay is energized and 30 (actuator output) connects to 87 (12vdc) eliminating the burn trace from the circuit.

Kevin Pierson

t&t tech

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Posted: October 21, 2009 at 7:13 AM / IP Logged

Yup, i thought about it last night, my apologies for the dumb question! g35 sedan having lock/unlock wiring issue - Page 3 -- posted image.

KPierson

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Posted: October 21, 2009 at 7:41 AM / IP Logged

Not a dumb question at all!

Kevin Pierson

choleaoum

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Joined: October 01, 2009

Location: California, United States

Posted: April 24, 2010 at 7:14 PM / IP Logged

Sorry for bumping ANOTHER old post but I finally pulled out the BCM and took a look at it. Nothing looks fried? I hear a click noise coming from relay 3 I believe, and all the doors unlock, 3 doors lock but my driver door doesn't lock back. (I accidently sent a 12v to the wrong wire lol.)

choleaoum

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Location: California, United States

Posted: April 24, 2010 at 8:13 PM / IP Logged

Update: I took a picture to show everyone, it was actually relay 2 that is clicking when I press lock or unlock. I checked the fuses 3 times, and no fuses are blown.

KPierson

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Posted: April 24, 2010 at 10:54 PM / IP Logged

The part that would be damaged is the trace between the relay and the connector. Since the connectors sit on top of the board it is hard to see if there is any damage.

What you will need to do is get the service manual and find all three lock/unlock wires. You can then trace them back to the correct relays and make sure all relays still rest at ground. From memory I thought all three door lock relays were the same size, but it looks like you have two small and one big. That would make me assume the big is the lock (since it is common) and the two little ones are the unlock relays (one would be for the drivers door the other the passenger door(s).

Kevin Pierson

KPierson

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Posted: April 24, 2010 at 11:01 PM / IP Logged

I didn't reread the thread but I think my above post is wrong - I think the damaged pin would be on the NC contact of the relay.

Kevin Pierson

choleaoum

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Joined: October 01, 2009

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Posted: April 25, 2010 at 12:20 AM / IP Logged

KPierson wrote:

I didn't reread the thread but I think my above post is wrong - I think the damaged pin would be on the NC contact of the relay.

NC Contact of the relay? What do you mean? And I visited your site, very helpful btw.

KPierson

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Joined: April 14, 2005

Location: Ohio, United States

Posted: April 25, 2010 at 7:43 AM / IP Logged

There should be 5 pins per relay - two coil pins, a common pin, a NO (normally open)pin and a NC (normally closed)pin. The NC pin should be grounded as the door lock actuators rest at ground. If you can find a pinout of the two small relays you should be able to locate the NC pin and make sure they are both still grounded. The common pin of the relay should be connected to the actuator outputs (just to verify they are the correct relays).

Kevin Pierson

choleaoum

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Joined: October 01, 2009

Location: California, United States

Posted: April 25, 2010 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged

Hmmm, I probed relay 3, the two soldered points I can reach because my needle is too big. It rests at 0, then sends a 12v when I unlock the door. Although on relay 2, the 2 pins on the side I can reach it rests at 0, but when I unlock/lock the door, it does nothing. Is relay 2 the issue? If so, would I have to take off relay 2 and resolder it? I would take it to a local mobile shop but they would tear a new hole in my wallet.

I was not able to reach relay 1 as it's between the 2 other relays and my needle is too big to fit inbetween it.

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