remote start bypass module for gm

If they flashed it with the ADS DLSL GM1 firmware, you should be all set.  Just download the correct guide and follow the Type 3 install.  Don't forget to set the Installation Mode as described on page 8 before programming it to the car.

Good luck!

On most R/S units the sequence is pretty much the same.  Yes, there is a delay between the remote button being pressed and the engine cranking.

Unless directed otherwise, the IGN input to the Bypass comes from the IGN wire at the ignition switch.  Of course you can connect it to the IGN1 output of the R/S if that wire is already connected to the cars IGN1wire at the ignition switch.  They are connected and therefore one & same.

I would "hard wire" all the connections between the R/S and the iDatalink module instead of using the iDatalink connection. Its more reliable. That means making all the connections between the 2 modules that are in dashes on the Type 3 install guide and setting the bypass module to Standard Mode.  The polarity of the signals that the bypass module is expecting (black) or outputting (red) is marked in the guide.

The +12 volt power for the R/S should come from the Red wire at the back of the fuse box.  The fuse box is under the dash on the passanger side.  You might have to extend the R/S's power wires to reach it.

The other wires ( Start, IGN, ACC ) you will get at the ignition switch.  Most R/S units only fuse the power inputs, and the parking light & the horn outputs.  It is safe to connect the heavy gauge R/S wires to the smaller gauge ignition wires in the car.  ( If your R/S fuses the Ignition outputs and it causes you concern, you could replace those fuses with a smaller rated amperage if the ignition wire it attaches to is thin gauge.)  While most of the older cars had heavy gauge ignition wires, a lot of the newer cars are going to thin gauge ignition wires.