clifford in a mk7 transit

I finally got the wiring diagrams yesterday afternoon, after someone sent me the earlier ones with wrong colours. First two may be the wrong way round, TEST. Motor wires. Lock Grey/brown. B 24 Deadlock Violet/orange. B23 Unlock FRONT Blue/brown. B12 Unlock REAR Yellow/violet. B8 Possible low current trigger wires Grey/Blue lock. C7 Blue FRONT Unlock. C16 GREEN/ violet Rear unlock. C5 All yours. Dead easy. Front cabin roof mounted single or dual prox won't work in the cargo area if there's a metal division. Front bumper might if not under metal.

Thanks for that, not sure what a low current trigger wire is (hurtled over my head), I think I will tinker with the setup I have now as in my last thread you will see the unlock problem. Did you read my last post through, this is a full windowed van with no bulkhead, but a heated screen, I think this stops the outside microwaves just like an oven door (plumbers understanding) or faraday cage if you are a scientist. Anyway point is can anyone see an error in mounting a microwave sensor behind the grille pointing out to warn passers by at the front.???If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

The unlock is simple, it's called priority unlock. separate front and rear. The 606 will handle this (just). Low current triggers = terminal 85 of the lock relay (internal to the GEM box) when 86 and 87 are pos, 87a is grounded and 30 is the output. Place your existing prox in the centre roof. Yes you're right about the screen and the front end or one in the rear roof and one in the front roof linings. The signal will still transmit through everything bar the front windscreen.

Thankyou howie for all this info, I am much the better now with all this. one thing I am not sure about is the deadlock, does this operate as a motor separate to the lock function, ie first power the lock with a +12v leg pulse, then +12v leg pulse the deadlock? And will powering the unlock direct to the motor, unlock this deadlock (does this even make sense???)

The reason I ask is if +12v leg pulse unlock will overide the deadlock then it will be worth doing, but as it is at the moment I am using what I think is the low current unlock input to the GEM box (sorry if my lingo is a bit poor here), this does not overide the deadlock, I guess ere that this input is similar to trying an internal handle when inside the van on deadlock, that is that it wont work.

In a nutshell

1. Is powering the deadlock the same as lock, with the Aux from the alarm +12v after the lock ?

2. Does simply powering the unlock motor direct, unlock a deadlock, or is it more complex ? 

3. Is santa real ?

If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

1) Yes use a timed aux set for 4 seconds thus:- White, programmed to operate on arming and the time set for 4 seconds to 85. 20amp fused 12v+ constant to 86 and 87. GEM side to 87a. Door side to 30. 2)Yes, use the inbuilt relays for lock and unlock, use the above for deadlock and the trunk release wire thus:- Blue/Black to 85. 20amp fused 12v+ constant to 86 and 87. GEM side to 87a. Motor side to 30. Using the front or rear unlocks will free off the deadlock. You can still have ignition lock which won't deadlock the vehicle. 3)No because I'm Jewish and Chanukka, Xmas, Eids etc. etc. simply took the place of the Pagan winter solstice festivals all over the world. I did hear a lovely one about a p****d off Santa and the Fairy though.

What do you mean no Santa, I know he exists, I saw him in Selfridges on Saturday. Happy Hanukkah I think we made a big loop here, my data sheet also showed Grey/Blue as low current Lock, in my van this tests as no change, and does not respond to a neg pulse, maybe it's something to do with it being a minibus design.If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Ah you just found out about my Saturday job. Having tried that in previous years, even with a disabled sticker, there's no way I would even try Selfridges that close to Xmas. I was in the Harlequin in Watford on Sunday and that was bad enough, I used to live in off Brent Street in Hendon, this time of the year I walked to Brent Cross. Had to do a job on West Molsely yesterday, nearly 2 hours to get back to Boringwood via Twickenham and the North Circ, Wembley and Stanmore. OK don't forget on that vehicle you will often have two wires with different functions just look at the BLACK/ blue wires in the passenger floor loom of a pre 07 Mondeo or at the GEM box, ditto Transit Connect, pre 2010, driver's floor loom 3 x blue/black, one is the door trigger. Generally the the thinner wires would be lock triggers (= 85) and the slightly thicker motor wires(= 30).

I am starting to follow that on the wires, I did wonder if the working unlock trigger wire had a different system to the motors, as when locked the wire stays at 12v, when you pulse it with 0v it unlocks the front and drops t to 0v, and will stay at 0v until you lock the doors again. I pondered the concept of pulsing 12v on the same wire when it was sitting at 0v to see if it would lock the doors, but I hate that feeling you get when you bust something expensive. My gut feeling is that the system must be something like a flip/flop circuit, as only 1 wire changes state in the low current side when locking/unlocking.If you don't know how to do it then ask someone who does

Forget all that c**p but using a DMM, this is the tried and tested old school method. Use a Snap-On or similar, only use the Snap-On if this is your living, you can buy a cheaper semi-throwaway in Halfords for much less as long as it has an incandescent bulb, the reason being that for none data the bulb draws enough to trigger and if you are probing a wire "sitting" on 12v+ to earth you won't damage the circuit. You can even pick up a side light unit off a wreck and solder/crimp a croc clip to one side! Then close all but the passenger door, flip over the catch on the rear of the door so that it locks and unlocks then test. Those wires are NOT flip-flop, you're simply seeing the pos coming over from the GEM internal lock/unlock relays which don't have diodes across the coils. Take a relay then wire pos to 86 and neg to 85 the relay will obviously activate, now disconnect the 85 side and test probe you will see 12V+ at 85. Now do you get it?

hi im new to this site ive got a transit connect van 2004 im trying to install remote locking to it ive found the central locking module located by the fuse board and found the lock/unlock wires which ive tested showing 12v when locked and 12v when unlocked ive applied 12v to the lock wire but it does not lock or unlock when voltage applied to unlock wire i would say this is a positive control system any help would be greatly apprrechated thanks