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viper 5101 manual 5 flash shutdown


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starfox5194 
Member - Posts: 35
Member spacespace
Joined: June 27, 2011
Posted: June 30, 2011 at 1:45 PM / IP Logged  
I am in the process of installing a Viper 5101 in my 1995 Subaru Legacy Outback Manual Transmission. This Vehicle has cruise control which may affect some wiring diagrams.
The Viper is set to Manual transmission mode. During the manual shutdown process, After the doors are locked to shut off the engine, the headlights flash 5 times which indicates a brake shutdown. I have taken this car to a certified installer to have this checked out. They looked at it for about an hour for free and said they didn't know what was wrong with it. The car remote starts fine in Automatic Transmission Mode. The shop i took the car to would not tell me how to just leave the car in automatic transmission mode.
Sorry for the big block of text. Does anyone know what is happening after the doors are locked to indicate a brake shutdown? This is the problem that I have to solve to get my system working. Thanks!
kickergod 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: September 19, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: July 01, 2011 at 12:44 AM / IP Logged  
Manual/Auto is a programming option which can be found in the install manual. I do not recommend making it automatic as you may remote start it and throw it into another vehicle or curb or garage door etc. Here is the install manual.
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=viper+5101
That being said. Only thing that comes to mind as a possible issue would be the fact that the horn wire and brake wire are the same color (thanks alot viper!) You may have them backwards in which case when you hit lock the horn honk might be somehow backfeeding enough to shut down the starter I know one is a positive pulse and the other is a negative but thats the only scenario I can put together. Does the horn honk work correctly with lock and unlock and does brake shutdown work correctly in automatic mode? Do you have a test light or meter to test the brake wire while hitting the lock button? I am surprised a "certified" technician couldnt find any problem obviously there is one if its not working. It is possible the Start Module is bad, I heard there was a bunch of issues with some of the new ones but never experienced any myself having done many 5101's.
Ryan Edwards
MECP Certified Installer
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 01, 2011 at 5:31 AM / IP Logged  
Have you added LED lights, these seem to have about 3V+ on the circuit and can hold off the R/S. Did the shop test the brake input with a meter?
The shop was absolutely correct in not telling you how to set it up for auto mode. There is a terminal on the engine management, NEUTRAL SAFETY. This goes to ground when the shift is in neutral and then the remote can be set for auto, the trouble is you will still have the same problem ref: the brakes!
starfox5194 
Member - Posts: 35
Member spacespace
Joined: June 27, 2011
Posted: July 01, 2011 at 8:32 AM / IP Logged  
Yes, the brake wire was tested with a test light. Im using the brown wire on the 5 pin connector for the brake wire. I have tried both the cruise control plug brake wire and the brake plug brake wire. Both have the same result. In the shutdown procedure, if one physically presses the brake pedal, the car's engine will shut off. I am going to see if I can find and hook up the factory arm and disarm wires because those might have something to do with it?
Someone mentioned that the module is bad.... I would not be surprised because I bought it refurbished. I'm going to contact the eBay seller now and see if I can get a new one.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 01, 2011 at 8:55 AM / IP Logged  
The reasons I asked those questions have now been answered!
Whilst I'm the leading proponent of "quick and dirty" using a test light, with diagnostics I would have used a DMM to be sure.
You're looking to see that lead go to 0v or ground then hit 12v+ if the brake is pressed. If that's happening to the brake input lead at the brain, then yes providing the other 12V+ power and ground leads are giving you 12.3+ or more then yes, probably a faulty brain.

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