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2011 hyundai santa fe v6


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chiarlanza 
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Posted: August 22, 2011 at 10:31 AM / IP Logged  

Looking for alarm / remote start wiring:

2011 Hyundai Santa Fe (V6)

Does this require a transponder bypass. ?

kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
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Posted: August 22, 2011 at 11:17 AM / IP Logged  

DEI has the wiring info at :  http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=26208&product=Remote Start&make=Hyundai&model=Santa Fe#

Here is some info on the Hyundai transponder system from iDatalink :  http://12voltdata.com/viewtopic.php?f=282&t=4654

iDatalink has the KLON bypass product available for those vehicles that have a transponder.

Fortin has bypass modules listed at :  https://ifar.ca/en/vehicles/hyundai/santa_fe/2011/

Soldering is fun!
chiarlanza 
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Posted: September 05, 2011 at 10:07 AM / IP Logged  
The info on the readyremote site is perfect. Thanks. But.... It's mentioning something regarding the factory disarm and referencing "tech doc 1300". Does anyone have this document, or the short and skinny for disabling the factory security.
miclem 
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Posted: May 07, 2012 at 10:49 PM / IP Logged  
Hello do you know the color of brake pedal light wire for Santa Fe 2011
howie ll 
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Posted: May 08, 2012 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  
Follow Kregg's advice for Ready Remote.
tommy... 
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Posted: May 09, 2012 at 8:57 AM / IP Logged  
http://directechs.com/tech_docs/Document26208-1.pdf
M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!
krushmoto 
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Posted: November 06, 2012 at 11:53 PM / IP Logged  
2012 SF Se 3.5L V6
I'm trying to install the Prestige APS997c remote start, my car has the OEM remote start and know the color for the tach signal. Hooked up the tach line from the Prestige to the tach line for the factory remote start but the Prestige doesn't recognize the signal so the remote start doesn't work. I looked over the install manual and noticed there are options for the tach signal (tach, DBI tach, hybrid & voltage). I contacted Prestige and they said to connect to any (-) side of the injector. Everything I've read says the SF is an (ac) tach signal.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks.
howie ll 
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Posted: November 07, 2012 at 12:27 AM / IP Logged  
Absolutely correct. All injectors have two wires. One is the 12 volt signal all the same colour wire, the other is the pulse or timing signal, effectively the + side of an AC sine wave.
Their info is correct their explanation wrong.
So look at the injector wiring.
One colour common to all, the other uncommon, any of them will be your tach pick-up.
PS had some similar problems with a Prestige unit recently, couldn't get into tach or programming, coincidentally (?) I grounded for a second the purple "external" trigger wire. That seemed to do the job.
krushmoto 
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Posted: November 07, 2012 at 12:42 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Absolutely correct. All injectors have two wires. One is the 12 volt signal all the same colour wire, the other is the pulse or timing signal, effectively the + side of an AC sine wave.
Their info is correct their explanation wrong.
So look at the injector wiring.
One colour common to all, the other uncommon, any of them will be your tach pick-up.
PS had some similar problems with a Prestige unit recently, couldn't get into tach or programming, coincidentally (?) I grounded for a second the purple "external" trigger wire. That seemed to do the job.
Thanks for the info Howie.
But does anyone possibly know what color wire I might use from behind the dash? I was reading an old post for an '07 SF and they said blue/orange which worked for them. Does anyone know if that would work for the '12 SF 3.5L?
Also what is the key in sense? I partially understand it that if your key is in the ignition the drivers door doesn't lock until it's put into gear. Makes sense and do I need to connect it to the alarm/remote start?
howie ll 
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Posted: November 07, 2012 at 12:48 AM / IP Logged  
Older vehicles used separate wiring and a flexible printed circuit, the main gauges, speed and tach had three rear screw terminals, 12V+, ground and tach (or speed) signal. Trace that wire from the screw terminal back to the connector.
Test as follows:- DMM set to 20VAC. Black probe to ground, red to suspect lead, run engine, you should get a reading of 2-5 volts AC increasing very slightly as you rev up.
Unfortunately many modern instrument panels are a processor and only get CAN or multiplexed data which you won't be able to use.
Not sure about the key sense.
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