remote start, 2010 accord?

HRW = rear defogger.* It's quicker to trace it back from the HRW through the car. It's the HOT or 12v+ feed wire to the rear window. * Like bumper =fender, hood =bonnet, boot = trunk.

lol @ boot\bonnet\bumper. Never knew ;) I sure hope the wiring is exposed on the rear window. Having recently disassembled the rear shelf, I would probably bail out on the rear defrost..err defogger before having to do that one again. So basically, I should expect a +12V constant supplied by the Accessory switch, a ground, and then the control signal going into the HRW? I believe the REAR DEFROST (-) control signal is located near the driver fuse box. Once 12V is properly applied does the defrost need to be pulsed or latched to ground?

I busted out my service manual and having looked at the circuit diagram, I'm thinking this rear defrost is going to work with only ACCESSORY1 (Orange) hooked up. The rear defrost SPST relay under the hood has the positive coil end supplied through Fuse #16 which is supplied via the Orange Accessory 1 wire. The fused end should be a light green wire located in the driver side fuse box. The negative coil end is controlled by the Brown lead located in the driver side fuse box. The 12V power is a GRN lead that probably travels up the left hand side of the car to the rear deck near the left speaker. I don't think i'll need to access this directly. The 5501 that I'm dealing with has a 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER output that starts 10 seconds after remote start and stays on latched for 60 seconds. Perhaps a slightly more elegant method would be to use the pulse mode instead and trigger the car's actual rear defrost switch which will cause the normal activity...rear defrost light comes on, car has its own 60 second timer...etc.    I'll test this all as I go. Plan to start my install this weekend.

Got everything hooked up and working this weekend, but I'm trying to identify the rear defrost(-) signal wire but can't seem to get it identified. Not get it to work....just ID the right wire. There appear to be three light green connectors in the drivers side fuse box. One very large one in the middle, one towards the top, and one at the bottom. The wire list photos in the download section of this site says the wire is brown. The upper harness has a brown wire which is the front left door pin. This leaves the brown pin in the bottom green connector. If I turn the ignition (no R/S involved) to fully on position, I measure 0.7VDC. If I hit the rear defrost button on the HVAC center console, the voltage level doesn't change. Looking at the car wiring diagram, the negative relay coil end is indeed connected through a diode so the 0.7V part makes sense. However, there seems to be no change in this control line when the rear defrost button is toggled. The positive coil end is fused and connected to the ACC1 wire, which measures 12V as expected. What am I missing? Am I looking at the wrong wire or not understanding how this relay is controlled?

vertical plug GREEN, brown (-) towards the bottom left of the plug. Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

I guess I'm still not seeing it. On the driver fuse box, I have two vertical green connectors (see below). The left one has a brown wire which is the driver door pin. The large middle connector doesn't appear to have any brown wires. Off to the right, there is a vertical green connector...however, I'm assuming this isn't it since it isn't on the driver fuse box. For what it's worth, my where's waldo skills weren't very good either lol

Thanks Flobee...for whatever reason I assumed it could not possibly be in the big vertical connector lol. Tested it and it signaled as expected. I'll have to hook it and the heated seats to the remote start next weekend and get all of that working. Thanks for all the help from everyone so far.

heated seats just leave the switch on your preferred setting.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote: heated seats just leave the switch on your preferred setting.

In Texas, this wouldn't work. The weather isn't consistent enough to know when to leave the seat warmers on. Our cold days come a few at a time several times throughout the winter...that gets mixed in with 70 degree days as well. Unless you really watch and keep up with the weather, no way to know consistently. I pulled the wiring diagram for the car and looks like this should work pretty well. I mounted the brain behind the center console so the switches are right there. I plan to drive a relay off of the viper rear defrost timed output. Hopefully I can get that wired in next weekend!