python 580 starter in 2008 sonata

I'll tell you right up front that this is my first remote starter installation. I'm finding that there is quite a bit of shorthand in the installation guide. Fair enough - meant for professionals. If someone is willing to throw me a bone and help with a couple of conceptual items, though, I'd sure appreciate it. Installation guide gives the following details for the 8-pin remote start connector: H3/1 Pink (+) ignition 1 input/output H3/2 RED / White (+) Fused (30A) ignition 2/flex relay input 87 H3/3 Orange (+) accessory output H3/4 Violet (+) starter output H3/5 Red (+) Fused (30A) ignition 1 input H3/6 Pink/White (+) ignition 2/flex relay output H3/7 Pink/Black (+) flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay H3/8 RED / Black (+) Fused (30A) accessory/starter input I think I'm most confused about the #1 ignition 1 input/output connection. Will that function as the ignition output in my context? Am I correct that #5 & #8 should be connected to a constant 12V wire, with #1, #3, and #4 each connected to their respective circuits. My car does not have a 2nd or 3rd ignition circuit so #2 and #6 are definitely not in play. I don't know for sure yet whether or not my car requires a bypass module, but I have one just in case. If it does, will #7 feed power to the module? Thanks!

First I will say congrats on your first install. Hope this helps you. All of these get connected at the ignition harness Very straightforward install - I did a 2007 a couple weeks ago Your vehicle should not have an immobilizer. Most US made Sonatas don't have them. H3/1 Pink (+) goes to the blue ignition wire H3/2 RED / White (+) goes to the pink 12v constant wire H3/3 Orange (+) goes to the orange accessory wire H3/4 Violet (+) goes to the green starter wire H3/5 Red (+) also goes to the pink 12v constant wire H3/6 Pink/White (+) goes to the green 2nd accessory wire H3/7 Pink/Black (+) only needed if you want to cut the starter wire for anti-grind function. Otherwise, not used (just cut and tape up) H3/8 RED / Black (+) also goes to the pink 12v constant wire Be VERY careful with the 2 green wires at the ignition harness. Test them both since one is the starter wire. The other is an accessory but only powers up with the key in the "on" position. The starter green wire will only power up when you turn the key to the start position. Most other wires are found in the drivers kick panel (locks, arm/disarm, trunk pop).

Man, this is great! Thanks so much. So does the #2 wire end up providing power for other programmable functions, etc? As for the green wires, I'll be sure to test them. I did pay for the photos and wiring description over at wirecolor.com, so either way I don't think I'll have any trouble identifying which is which. Regarding the anti-grind function: Is that necessary if the tach circuit is properly connected? Also, is it preferable to take that signal from a harness inside or from one of the injectors (under the hood?)? AND (not to be greedy, but one more question), should the control unit be mounted inside the vehicle or in the engine compartment? Thanks again!

Yes, the RED / White provides power to the pink/white flex connection. The anti-grind function is an optional connection but it's not related to tach wire connection. It's purpose is to prevent the starter from grinding if you accidentally turn the key to the start position when you take over with the key. But again, it's totally optional. For tach signal, I always go under the hood to an injector. According to Directwire - Tachometer (white) driver kick, black 33 pin plug, pin 28 Notes: Can also go to any fuel injector and use the wire that is NOT black (2.4L) or orange (3.3L). When you say control unit, do you mean the remote starter brain? If so, always inside the vehicle. It's not made to be in the harsh conditions that can exist under the hood.

Great, thanks! I can see that I may have another question or two along the way. The learning curve is always a little high the first time through a project like this. For instance, I see that the vehicle has both + and - parking light wires available, but the connection on the remote is just a single "Parking Light Output" with no polarity indicated.

Please ask all the questions you feel are going to help you get this done right. We were all in your shoes at one time. To change the polarity of the parking light output wire, you would open the door on the remote starter brain. You will see a place to insert the mini 10amp fuse provided in either negative or positive polarity. I suggest using the (-) trigger wire. It's very easy to access if you remove the lower cover of the steering wheel cover.

Also, would you recommend taking the seat out? Kind of a pain but it sure would be nice to have more room.

I have never had to remove a seat while doing an install although I've learned how to do some pretty interesting contortionist acts. If you feel it might make it a little simpler due to the extra room, by all means.   On the 07 Sonata I installed in a few weeks ago, I just pushed the drivers seat as far back as it will go and laid down under the dash to access and test the ignition wires. All the other wires I needed were available at the drivers kick harness (lock, unlock, arm, disarm, trunk, door trigger). Hood pin and tach wires I ran next to the hood release cable thru the firewall.

OK, that's really helpful. Did you have to drive a hole through the firewall or were you able to use one that was already there? I'm thinking of mounting the neutral safety switch inside that little drawer to the lower left of the steering column. For now, I'm off to buy a new a soldering gun. Mine crapped out and I don't think I want to fight with my little 30watt iron in a cool garage.

Do I need to disconnect the battery before unplugging the multi-connects, then reconnect the battery and do my testing on the tabs of those connectors?